Overheating and ac blowing warm

BudW · Aug 26, 2016

Without being there – I don’t know for sure, but I suspect one of two issues (or both).
1. Engine is overheating and Lean Burn computer is preventing A/C compressor operation (or something else along those lines).

2. The Evaporator core is freezing up stopping air flow through it. After car is turned off, it melts and is good to go again. That would be affected by the A/C clutch cycling switch or in that general area.

Can you take a picture of this area please, and post here?

This would be in the Right Rear corner of the engine compartment, by the washer fluid bottle.

Justwondering · Aug 26, 2016

Ok brian so how do I fix he problem? change out the hi/lo switch or add in a switch with a different definition of lo?

Justwondering · Aug 26, 2016

I'll go take a picture.

Justwondering · Aug 26, 2016

I have another 8 hour trip and all day hauling gig tomorrow but things should be getting back to normal for me after that. If I need to order anything to fix this problem, I'm up for that.

Darth-Car · Aug 27, 2016

Put in the factory low pressure cut out switch.

Plus do not run constantly on Max A/C. The meat locker feel is great, but these systems are over-sized, which is good for allowing them to work with 134a, but can also allow a system when in closed recirculation mode, which is what Max A/C is, to freeze up. Once that air gets frosty coming out of those vents, switch to a normal A/C setting. This will allow the outside air into the system, and the heat from that air will keep those coils from icing. Now your vent temperature will rise, but you will not be making an ice ball either.

kkritsilas · Aug 27, 2016

To get back to justwondering's original symptoms, and with all due respect to the combined wisdom here, none if this explains the missing coolant. While the icing up of the coils may explain the lack of cold air blowing, the temperature gauge being pegged on "H" and multiple fill ups of water/coolant have some other root cause. The heating up of the car and the missing coolant seem to point to a cooling system issue of one sort or another. The car cooling of with speed may be a fan problem (is this a clutch fan?), a water pump problem, or possibly fan belt slippage problem. If the fan belt also drives the compressor, it would also explain the lack of cold air.

Justwondering · Aug 28, 2016

I had another 600 mile haul yesterday so this gets looked into today.

Aspen500 · Aug 28, 2016

I missed the missing coolant part, oops.
This is just a theory. You say you had to add coolant a couple times but then the temp stayed around 1/2 scale and the jug was still full after that(?). It's possible that there was air pockets in the engine after changing the hoses. It would explain the gauge going high, then after sitting a bit and adding water it was OK. Perhaps the air has finally purged?
If there was a leak, the coolant most likely wouldn't get pulled out of the reservoir from system vacuum as it cools and the coolant contracts, because there would be a "vacuum leak" that will suck air in instead of sucking coolant from the jug.
If there's a leak, either external or internal, MOST times the reservoir level will be fine but the radiator could be a gallon low. I say MOST times because a head gasket leak between the combustion chamber and water jacket will cause the reservoir to fill up and overflow.

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

I'm thinking this was operator error.

I back-filled the cooling system by putting the fluid in the overflow bottle. Its how the diesel expects it to be done. Rather than read the service manual, like I should have.

I introduced air in the system when I changed the lines and didn't flush the air out properly. I should have started the engine and added the fluid to the top of the radiator. As I drove down the road the air percolated out to the overflow bottle and I was left with less fluid than I thought. This caused the overheating.

Thats my supposition at this point. 16 mile round trip and no problems this morning.

The A/C was icing up... today I put it on MAX long enough to get the cabin temp down, then moved it to Bi-level. Stayed cool, everything was fine.

I'll try a longer trip later in the week.

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

Here is the play in my belts:

Neither looks really loose.

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

Here is engine compartment:

You can see the icing on the cold side.

The stupid aluminum hose that won't stay seated. This is on the driver side of the engine.

Top of the radiator - after I added fluid during the trip

coolant overflow bottle fluid level

BudW · Aug 29, 2016

The coolant loss/leak issue needs to be addressed before the A/C does.
A working A/C takes a back seat if engine is blown or broken down.

I’ve been told, when operating A/C in a just gotten into hot car, to first open a window (I’ve not been told which window or how much, but a window furthest from dash makes sense) and run the A/C in non-MAX mode on mid to high blower speed for a bit – to push the hot air out.
Then close window(s), turn A/C to MAX mode until car cools down.
Once cooled down, then turn A/C back to regular mode (non-MAX) for remainder of your trip.

Air flow through the evaporator case, goes through the A/C evaporator core first then through the heater core before getting to the vents.
If the evaporator core does freeze up externally, the only way to unfreeze it is to turn off A/C for a while (easier said than done on some (ie: hot) days).

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

For some reason, my dog Tater, decided that digging a hole and throwing sand on my work area was the best use of his time.

Engine compartment on the driver's side.

The vacuum pump on the fire wall.

hose routing over the compressor

Passenger side expansion unit near fire wall

BudW · Aug 29, 2016

Those fan belts are WAY WAY too loose.
Your pictures:

Here is a picture of my A/C belts while pushing down on one belt to show how tight they should be.
The good news is those belts don’t turn the water pump, but can (or will) make a belt squeal noise on startup and when A/C turns on.

The picture I had asked for earlier, should like this one:

Edit: I missed your last post. I can't see the wiring on your last picture, though.

BudW · Aug 29, 2016

Can I see a picture showing the heater hoses, showing front to rear. please?

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

No problemo.
Be another hour or so before I get to go outside, but I'll get pictures and post.

I'll also tighten the belts a bit.

Aspen500 · Aug 29, 2016

Your diesel has a pressure tank or surge tank that is pressurized where the 5th is only an overflow reservoir and is open to atmosphere. The Diesel doesn't have an overflow tank, if it does "overflow" it just runs out the vent on the tank onto the ground. The coolant expansion is contained in the air space inside the tank. Since it's the highest point in the cooling system, the air won't get in the coolant.

There are days like today where it's so humid you have to run the A/C on MAX the entire time,,,,,,,,,,,,like on the way home from work this evening

Looks like there's an open water faucet under the truck there's so much condensation running out.

BudW · Aug 29, 2016

I took pictures of the heater hoses on my 5th which are routed correctly.
The original hoses came with a black foam like slip on sleeve on them.

New sleeves were ordered (where they get pinched between the A/C compressor and air cleaner) but that part number got superseded - so I ordered the new part number instead, a few years back.
Sometimes that sleeve can be removed from old heater hose. Mine crumbled instead, when replacing the heater hoses.

The part that arrived was not a black foam sleeve - but convolute tubing – which is what you see in the picture (Note: if anyone wants convolute tubing, go to the hardware store for its cheaper there).

I placed a white line showing direction of heater hoses.

I suspect the heater hose that is going over the top of the A/C compressor might be getting pinched shut when hood is closed. Both hoses were designed to fit in the small gap between the compressor and air cleaner (but it is a small area).

Justwondering, the silver vertical item on right side of second picture, is a police/pickup oil fill extension, that screws into valve cover where the oil fill cap is at. It makes adding engine oil so much easier on these cars – but they are getting hard to find now.

Justwondering · Aug 29, 2016

My hoses are in appropriately routed over the compressor.

This explains many things.

I'll re-route things tomorrow. BudW - Thank you! You are a life saver.

Overheating and ac blowing warm

BudW

Moderator

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Darth-Car

Well-Known Member

kkritsilas

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Aspen500

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

BudW

Moderator

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

BudW

Moderator

BudW

Moderator

Justwondering

Well-Known Member

Aspen500

Well-Known Member

BudW

Moderator

Justwondering

Well-Known Member