Hi guys, I'm back after I sold my green 76 Aspen. I just purchased another that has a clutch pedal already installed. I achieved 12.96 on the track with a so-so used 904 behind a well built 360. I have to choose now which way to go with the (not so) new project. A 383 with a four speed would be cool but a lot of work and $. What do you think? The new project is a black 76 R/T no motor of trans.
Manual or Auto?
- Thread starter Badasspen
- Start date
80mirada
Well-Known Member
B-Block would be cool but a 360 equally built will USUALLY beat a 383. Now if you were to stroke it the 383 has more room. My choice is a serious 360, possibly Magnum, with a well built 904. A four speed would be fun though.
Sorry about the late reply, stupid phone didn't post it
Sorry about the late reply, stupid phone didn't post it
efriedrich
Well-Known Member
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- Mar 9, 2011
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bb would be cool you don't see it done that often
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
What about a 6.1 hemi! That would be cool, a 76 R/T hemi!
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Come on dude, give us some time.
It's summer and there's so much to do and so little time to do it that the forums get pushed down the priority ladder a bit.I may be biased but I'd go big block.
I've got a stroked 440 but am thinking a 383 with it's shorter deck height would give that little extra room and maybe enough for a taller intake manifold and still have hood clearance.
Best reason to go BB is when people tell you it can't be done, will never fit, etc.
As for auto or manual, all personal preference. The auto would most likely be an easier install. Not sure about clutch linkage. I suppose a person could go hydraulic on the clutch to eliminate mechanical linkage that you may or may not have to fabricate. Plus, it won't be in the way for headers. A BB 727 is a tight fit in an F-body but it does fit and leaves JUST enough room for the kickdown cable to run over the top down to the throttle valve lever. There's also just enough room, barely,,,,,to get the bell housing bolts out and to remove the trans separate from the engine.
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80mirada
Well-Known Member
A 383 can become a 434 if memory serves me correctly, for an on the shelf stroker kit
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I think it's 438, and you can go up to 496 cubic inches with a 4.250" stroke.
Not sure if Badasspen is even here anymore. In his second post he seemed to be kind of ticked off.
Not sure if Badasspen is even here anymore. In his second post he seemed to be kind of ticked off.
I'm still here, thanks for the input. Looks to me like a big block with an automatic would be more practical. Clearances are are a real issue so planning ahead is very important. I heard that a 400 crank will fit a 383 and produce a stroker motor. Any more information on this would be appreciated. Thanks, its good to be back.
80mirada
Well-Known Member
400 and 383 are the same stroke
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
If you use Schumacher mounts (that were not made when I originally did my BB conversion in 1989) the engine will be basically a "drop in". The trans mounts to the exact same spot with the same mount as a SB or S6.
Most likely the least expensive option for doing a stroker is to use a 440 Source stroker kit and you know it'll all work together. Plus all the parts are way better than any stock piece, along with being brand new. I thought the kit price was a lot until adding up the cost of building a 440 using the original reciprocating assy. Turns out, the kit is actually a bargain and to be honest, was a big part of how it ended up being a 500" engine. I think their kits are now $2,250 to your door.
LOL, I almost felt bad putting the parts in an engine. Wanted to hang the crank and rods on the living room wall as art.
Almost felt bad putting the parts in an a
Headers MAY be a problem depending on budget. I've got Schumacher "Tri-Y" ceramic coated headers and they were not cheap but found they were worth every penny. Excellent pieces and fit like a glove with no problems at all. Of course, stock passenger car manifolds will work as well. The hi-po style (the kind that swoop up past the valve covers) will not even come close to fitting however.
Stock floor shift will work fine with the auto with no modifications. You'll have to use the Bouchillon throttle valve (kick-down) cable kit.
With a 383 you probably won't have clearance issues with the throttle cable. I ended up moving the exit point from the firewall an inch to the center of the car and an inch higher to clear the valve cover without having a sharp bend. Of course that also meant moving the gas pedal over and up the same amount which puts it in a sort of odd position in the car but I've gotten used to it.
For a radiator, I had a local shop (Glen-Ray Radiators, the place that makes the repop Hemi and BB radiators and p.s coolers.....) build a 3 row using the biggest tanks and side pieces that were available in an F-body. With the A/C on and 90 degree day, temp gauge rarely goes above 1/2 scale. If you use the 440 Source right side exit water pump housing, the lower hose will be on the correct side to hook the the radiator without running across the car from one side to the other. Mine was like that for years and it always bugged me.
Stroker Kits-440 Source
Most likely the least expensive option for doing a stroker is to use a 440 Source stroker kit and you know it'll all work together. Plus all the parts are way better than any stock piece, along with being brand new. I thought the kit price was a lot until adding up the cost of building a 440 using the original reciprocating assy. Turns out, the kit is actually a bargain and to be honest, was a big part of how it ended up being a 500" engine. I think their kits are now $2,250 to your door.
LOL, I almost felt bad putting the parts in an engine. Wanted to hang the crank and rods on the living room wall as art.
Almost felt bad putting the parts in an a
Headers MAY be a problem depending on budget. I've got Schumacher "Tri-Y" ceramic coated headers and they were not cheap but found they were worth every penny. Excellent pieces and fit like a glove with no problems at all. Of course, stock passenger car manifolds will work as well. The hi-po style (the kind that swoop up past the valve covers) will not even come close to fitting however.
Stock floor shift will work fine with the auto with no modifications. You'll have to use the Bouchillon throttle valve (kick-down) cable kit.
With a 383 you probably won't have clearance issues with the throttle cable. I ended up moving the exit point from the firewall an inch to the center of the car and an inch higher to clear the valve cover without having a sharp bend. Of course that also meant moving the gas pedal over and up the same amount which puts it in a sort of odd position in the car but I've gotten used to it.
For a radiator, I had a local shop (Glen-Ray Radiators, the place that makes the repop Hemi and BB radiators and p.s coolers.....) build a 3 row using the biggest tanks and side pieces that were available in an F-body. With the A/C on and 90 degree day, temp gauge rarely goes above 1/2 scale. If you use the 440 Source right side exit water pump housing, the lower hose will be on the correct side to hook the the radiator without running across the car from one side to the other. Mine was like that for years and it always bugged me.
Stroker Kits-440 Source
I’m building a pair of 400 stroker engines, one to install into my ‘77 Volare station wagon and one into my ’86 5th Ave (one auto, so wife will fell happy driving and other 5 (or 6) speed stick).
I prefer shifting – wife, not so much.
All I need is more $ to get a few missing parts and time to get engines and transmissions built to my specs.
Badasspen, if you plan on going automatic, I know a bunch of people who would pay you for your clutch petal setup. Might even get a trade for there’s and $ on top.
I have a clutch petal setup. I just need everything else (including $).
I prefer shifting – wife, not so much.
All I need is more $ to get a few missing parts and time to get engines and transmissions built to my specs.
Badasspen, if you plan on going automatic, I know a bunch of people who would pay you for your clutch petal setup. Might even get a trade for there’s and $ on top.
I have a clutch petal setup. I just need everything else (including $).
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Besides time, the biggest thing to delay a project that most all of us have is the $$$$$ part, or lack thereeof
That was the main reason it took me 12 years to build the car. I refused to do it using credit. OK, I used a credit card for online purchases so TECHNICALLY I used credit, but made sure to never charge more than I could pay when the statement came. One exception, when I bought the stroker kit, so sue me
That was the main reason it took me 12 years to build the car. I refused to do it using credit. OK, I used a credit card for online purchases so TECHNICALLY I used credit, but made sure to never charge more than I could pay when the statement came. One exception, when I bought the stroker kit, so sue me
Aspen500,
I like your way of thinking.
We had an inheritance fall into our lap about a year ago. We used part to go into savings/retirement, part for bills and part to play with.
Over the last decade or so, I have accumulated two 400 blocks (one is NOS), two stroker kits, 2 pair of Stealth cylinder heads, two sets of custom coated pistons, aluminum water pump housings, intakes and a lot of other parts.
Camshafts (undecided on which), timing gears and other odds/ends are still needed.
I really really want a Jesel timing belt setup – but until I can afford to pay for it in cash, it’s not going to happen.
Other things in my garage, taking up space is another NOS 440 short block, and several other 440’s.
There must have close to two dozen engines in my garage.
I like your way of thinking.
We had an inheritance fall into our lap about a year ago. We used part to go into savings/retirement, part for bills and part to play with.
Over the last decade or so, I have accumulated two 400 blocks (one is NOS), two stroker kits, 2 pair of Stealth cylinder heads, two sets of custom coated pistons, aluminum water pump housings, intakes and a lot of other parts.
Camshafts (undecided on which), timing gears and other odds/ends are still needed.
I really really want a Jesel timing belt setup – but until I can afford to pay for it in cash, it’s not going to happen.
Other things in my garage, taking up space is another NOS 440 short block, and several other 440’s.
There must have close to two dozen engines in my garage.
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
lol -- I have 6 feet of drywall in my garage - waiting for its installation. On the other side of the wall is all the fiberglass insulation which has to go in before the drywall... Fun fun fun
I forgot to mention, the Station Wagon was purchased with the "fun money" mentioned above.
jamf
Active Member
You won't regret doing a bigblock four speed.
Everything is already stripped out of the engine compartment and I have a manual steering box. It sounds like a lot of extra work when I can get the same if not better performance with a well built 360 and a 727 auto. The four speed costs .05 sec on every shift. I know for a fact that I will be under 13 seconds with this combo. Plus it will be streetable in the wet weather of Seattle. Looking for a mid to late 80s cop car for parts any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I won't lie, putting an engine into a car that never had that engine as a factory option (like a BB into and F-body), isn't a weekend project. It's a lot of work, engineering, fabricating and the main thing is,,,,,,,,,,trying to think of everything ahead of time as far as placement, mounting, will this work with that....................................
