Advice On My 80 Volare Duster

Hey everyone.
So I am currently looking to change over my 225 slant 6 into a super six to get a bit more "Pep" in my Volare's "Step" while not losing too much mpg as i plan on keeping it as a daily driver. I've recently purchased a super six setup from a member on this site but was wondering what would be an ideal 2bbl carb to put on.
Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Automatic or standard?
Lean Burn, or not?

Look for a Carter BBD for either a 225 Super Six or a 318.
Any engine size larger than 318 won't bolt up.

For the most part the 225 BBD and 318 BBD are the same except for choke plate on /6 has two small holes drilled into the choke plate – but have heard of success stories of using a 318 BBD on a /6 without any issues.

I don’t have an ’80 or ’81 part book to know the correct Carter Model number – but I don’t think that will matter much. The Model numbers change pretty much every year, but jetting pretty much stayed the same over the years, except for minor differences for Lean Burn (vs. not) and Auto vs, Manual transmissions. With that said, you can interchange the Auto vs. Manual without much problems.

I would stay away from a Lean Burn carburetor.
Just about anything else /6 2-bbl (BBD) and 318 2-bbl (BBD) should work.

If you find a possible carburetor, get the Model number and post here. I can confirm if it will work for you.

An example Model number is 8262S (4 numbers and letter S).
Often beside or below the Model number, is a date code. Example is 1239 (123rd day of ’79) – but not all have date codes.

Older BBD's will have a metal tag with Model number stamped on it. Mid '70's they quit using the metal tag and stamped the Model number onto air horn (using die stamps, and and not cast into the metal).

BudW

BudW said:

Automatic or standard?
Lean Burn, or not?

Look for a Carter BBD for either a 225 Super Six or a 318.
Any engine size larger than 318 won't bolt up.

For the most part the 225 BBD and 318 BBD are the same except for choke plate on /6 has two small holes drilled into the choke plate – but have heard of success stories of using a 318 BBD on a /6 without any issues.

I don’t have an ’80 or ’81 part book to know the correct Carter Model number – but I don’t think that will matter much. The Model numbers change pretty much every year, but jetting pretty much stayed the same over the years, except for minor differences for Lean Burn (vs. not) and Auto vs, Manual transmissions. With that said, you can interchange the Auto vs. Manual without much problems.

I would stay away from a Lean Burn carburetor.
Just about anything else /6 2-bbl (BBD) and 318 2-bbl (BBD) should work.

If you find a possible carburetor, get the Model number and post here. I can confirm if it will work for you.

An example Model number is 8262S (4 numbers and letter S).
Often beside or below the Model number, is a date code. Example is 1239 (123rd day of ’79) – but not all have date codes.

Older BBD's will have a metal tag with Model number stamped on it. Mid '70's they quit using the metal tag and stamped the Model number onto air horn (using die stamps, and and not cast into the metal).

BudW

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My Volare has a 3 speed manual tans if that makes any difference. Also is the carter BBD in general the best carburetor for the super six? Or is the holley 2280 a better choice and what are the differences between the two?

Personally, I prefer Carter BBD hands down vs. the Holley 2280 (or any Holley for that matter), from previous experience working on them.
I’ve rebuilt hundreds of Chrysler carburetors, as well as each version - except for the Holley 3-bbl (race Hemi), WCFB and military versions)

The only Holley Chrysler installed on any /6 was the Holley 1145 1-bbl version (with police/taxi/HD versions of /6 getting a Carter BBS 1-bbl).

All 318’s ’68-84 used a Carter BBD or TQ (Thermoquad), except for the ultra-rare Rochester 2VG and Holley 2280 – which were only used when not enough BBD’s were able to be produced.
’84 was the last year for any Carter carburetor, then Chrysler used Holley 2280/6280 and Rochester Quadajets until end of M-body production in ‘89.


My ’86 5th Ave, I removed the Holley 6280 and replaced it with a Chinese repop BBD, and has had 0 troubles with it.
Smiles, my Lean Burn computer is thinking it is still controlling the 6280 – but it is not.


To answer your question, I see no reason why you couldn’t use a Holley 2280 on your /6 - except for one item. There is no choke thermostat made to fit a 2280 to a /6.
On a 318, the BBD and 2280 choke thermostat rod is roughly ¼” shorter (not sure which way), so a person would need to modify the choke rod slightly to get one to work.

Other than that, go for it.
BudW

Rifleshooter said:

what are the differences between the two?

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For all practical purposes, fundamentally the BBD and 2280 are the same carburetor.
Both have 1¼” throttle blades (so same CFM rating), same general shape, dimensions and roughly the same number of parts.

For serviceability, and having rebuilt both versions several times, I just prefer working on the BBD, hands down. Others may disagree – this is my opinion.

Are there any other carbs that would fit onto the slant six, say edlebrock? Im still pretty new to this game so I don't know much

BudW said:

Automatic or standard?
Lean Burn, or not?

Look for a Carter BBD for either a 225 Super Six or a 318.
Any engine size larger than 318 won't bolt up.

For the most part the 225 BBD and 318 BBD are the same except for choke plate on /6 has two small holes drilled into the choke plate – but have heard of success stories of using a 318 BBD on a /6 without any issues.

I don’t have an ’80 or ’81 part book to know the correct Carter Model number – but I don’t think that will matter much. The Model numbers change pretty much every year, but jetting pretty much stayed the same over the years, except for minor differences for Lean Burn (vs. not) and Auto vs, Manual transmissions. With that said, you can interchange the Auto vs. Manual without much problems.

I would stay away from a Lean Burn carburetor.
Just about anything else /6 2-bbl (BBD) and 318 2-bbl (BBD) should work.

If you find a possible carburetor, get the Model number and post here. I can confirm if it will work for you.

An example Model number is 8262S (4 numbers and letter S).
Often beside or below the Model number, is a date code. Example is 1239 (123rd day of ’79) – but not all have date codes.

Older BBD's will have a metal tag with Model number stamped on it. Mid '70's they quit using the metal tag and stamped the Model number onto air horn (using die stamps, and and not cast into the metal).

BudW

Click to expand...

How does this one look? carter bbd 225 for sale - Google Search

There is a NOS/built super six carb on eBay right now for $3X.00 including shipping.

Unless you soup up the motor with318 valves, overbore, camshaft up grade, & a quality valve job-larger than stock carbs might be a waste and extra headaches.

I'm not a fan of this swap, as a stand-alone modification.
I highly recommend a rear-gear swap. The Super Six swap can't touch a gear-swap. Every swap from 2.76 to 3.55 is about a 10% torque increase. And it starts as soon as the car is moving. There is no waiting for the Rs to come up. Gears, man. Gears.If you have an A-833od, with it's super wide ratios,you can go up to 3.55s, for 65=2266 rpm.
The 3.09 x 3.55=10.97 starter gear, will make your slanty into a rocket! Well compared to 2.73s,lol. Going from 2.73s to 3.55s is an increase of 28.6%. That's like growing 28.6 % more cubes or turning your 225 into a 289....comparatively speaking. The SS carb can't touch that. It might do 7%, at the absolute maximum, and only from the torque peak to the power peak.So rev it up to 3000, and slip it out; sloooooowly.
With 3.55s it will be dump it and go.
The .73od will turn those 3.55s into 2.59s for cruising.
Of course if you already have 3.55s or better, well then I would recommend a bigger TC first; on account of it's way more bang for the buck,lol.
But if you already have a 2400 or better, well then I guess...the....engine...would...be...next......lol.

AJ/FormS said:

I'm not a fan of this swap, as a stand-alone modification.
I highly recommend a rear-gear swap. The Super Six swap can't touch a gear-swap. Every swap from 2.76 to 3.55 is about a 10% torque increase. And it starts as soon as the car is moving. There is no waiting for the Rs to come up. Gears, man. Gears.If you have an A-833od, with it's super wide ratios,you can go up to 3.55s, for 65=2266 rpm.
The 3.09 x 3.55=10.97 starter gear, will make your slanty into a rocket! Well compared to 2.73s,lol. Going from 2.73s to 3.55s is an increase of 28.6%. That's like growing 28.6 % more cubes or turning your 225 into a 289....comparatively speaking. The SS carb can't touch that. It might do 7%, at the absolute maximum, and only from the torque peak to the power peak.So rev it up to 3000, and slip it out; sloooooowly.
With 3.55s it will be dump it and go.
The .73od will turn those 3.55s into 2.59s for cruising.
Of course if you already have 3.55s or better, well then I would recommend a bigger TC first; on account of it's way more bang for the buck,lol.
But if you already have a 2400 or better, well then I guess...the....engine...would...be...next......lol.

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Thank you for the very useful info AJ. I hadn't even considered the differential being upgraded but now that you mention it. As for the transmission I currently have the a230 installed but have been looking around for an a833 for a decent price. I have no clue what rear I have on right now but due to the abundance of metal flakes in my differencial fluid and the leak at that I should probably look into getting a better one, any ideas as to what would work best and where to find one?

This is a trick question! I know what would work best for me. But not for you.
The A230 is a great 3-speed tranny.
But the very first thing to do is figure out what ratio is back there now.
And the second thing to do, is decide how much you value your current fuel mileage, cuz any gearing increase you make back there, will cost you mileage, no exceptions.

AJ/FormS said:

This is a trick question! I know what would work best for me. But not for you.
The A230 is a great 3-speed tranny.
But the very first thing to do is figure out what ratio is back there now.
And the second thing to do, is decide how much you value your current fuel mileage, cuz any gearing increase you make back there, will cost you mileage, no exceptions.

Click to expand...

Ok how do I find out what ratio I have. Also I don't really want to sacrafice too much mileage as I intend on keeping my volare as a daily driver, that's also why I'm not dropping a 318 v8 in it. I'm trying to find that happy medium for me when it comes to eco and performance with this car. Any and all ideas are welcome.

With a standard transmission, there are three ways to determine the rear gear ratio, by; 1) indirect measurement,or 2) direct measurement, or 3) reading the tag,if it is still there after all these years, and if it's the correct one on there.
1) The indirect measurement is the easiest. The ratio can be calculated if you report the exact rpm at an exact road-speed and know the exact tire roll-out.Then you just plug the numbers into a formula, and the ratio number falls out. This method requires a tack.
2)The direct measurement involves a little work; A) In a non-LSD equipped rear, you jack up one rear wheel free from the ground.Index the driveshaft and index the rear tire. Then rotate the tire one time and count the driveshaft revolutions. Then divide those revolutions by two. B) if you have a SureGrip, you have to jack up both rear wheels clear, and do not divide the result by two.
Indexing means marking one rotating member adjacent to a fixed member. As to the tire, it is usually it is indexed to the ground. As to the driveshaft, it is usually indexed to the pinion house.I use a paint marker. At the tire I lay a stick or cardboard next to it and again use the paint marker.Turning the tire just once requires great accuracy in counting the driveshaft revolutions. For greater accuracy, more turns of the tire can be done. The method is the same:
Driveshaft revolutions/tire revolutions x 1/2 for an open diff.only.
Ps, don't forget to put the tranny in neutral,lol

Using the rpm versus mph, method, the formula is
mph=(rpm x tire roll-out)/1056 x R1R2......rearranging the formula, we get
R2= 1/(mph x 1056R1)/( rpm x tr)
rollout is the tire circumference, and the Rs are the reduction ratios

example; R2=1/ [60 x 1056 x 1.00(direct third gear)]/(2240 x 78) and
R2 = 1/63360/174720.....R2=1/.3626...and R2=2.76

Your turn!

If mileage is important, the A833od is hard to beat. You can use 1/.73 = 37% more rear gear, and have exactly the same rpm at 60 mph that you now enjoy, and have more than 37% more take-off power than now. I say more than 36% cuz I have forgotten the A230s low ratio. The A833od has a 3.09 low ratio. If the A230 is 2.95 than you would get an additional 3.09/2.95=plus 4.7% torque multiplication, for a total of 37+4.7=over 41%. This is a very huge performance improvement. It is like bolting on a turbo. The 37% gear increase is equal to going from 2.76s to 3.78s. or from 3.23s to 4.42s. I suggest you limit your rear gear to 3.73s or 3.91s max, as in this case more can be too much. The 3.73s x 3.09 low is a starter gear of 11.53, which is pretty low. Second gear will come up pretty fast, and top of second will be about 47mph. Then you will have to pull that stinking direct gear all the way to your chosen cruising speed, starting from about 2400rpm,ouch.
So IMO, a rear gear of 3.73 is about tops with that A833od and the 225slanty. 3.73s will cruise 65=2400 with a 78inch rollout or 24.8 inch tire; which is about the same as it would cruise with 2.76s and no overdrive.
The tranny, I think, should be a straight swap with the addition of a new shifter.
The tranny can be had as cheap as $50 at swap meets 30 minutes before the guy wants to go home without it. The shifter will cost you more. More typically, guys might ASK for $450,shifter included.
IDK if you can get 3.73s for a 7.25, but 3.55s are still available. New price is usually around the $250 mark for gears, plus an installation bearing kit, cuz you said there are filings currently making a home in your unit. Plus the cost of installation, and I bet you don't have an LSD, so you are gonna need one, as the slanty will spin one skinny 225 pretty easily with a 11.5 starter gear. So by now that 7.25 is looking pretty pricey; at maybe getting close to $1000 after all is said and done.
Since the total gear reduction of 3.73s plus O/D may be the same as your current rear gear, you will never make back the cost of the install. Let the smile on your face be payment enough for the newfound driving experience.
Winding the slanty up to 4500 in first with 3.09 x 3.73s =29mph (with those 24.8 tires), will be a whole entire new BIG-FUN experience! Even with the current carburetion/exhaust. Try not to giggle. Men are not supposed to giggle. Little girls giggle. And sometimes wives giggle.....

Oh yeah, you don't have to go to 3.73s. You can go less. And if your final drive ratio ends up less than the current one, then it's possible that the engine will make more mpgs, and perhaps that is also welcome. So some compromise might work best for you. But consider that the 3.09 low gear is an instant 4.7 % increase over a 2.95 low gear, and I guessed at the A230s low being that. If the A230 starter is closer to 2.6 then it's a whole new ballgame again.

AJ/FormS said:

With a standard transmission, there are three ways to determine the rear gear ratio, by direct measurement, indirect measurement, or by reading the tag,if it is still there after all these years.
The indirect measurement is the easiest. The ratio can be calculated if you report the exact rpm at an exact road-speed and know the exact tire roll-out.Then you just plug the numbers into a formula, and the ratio number falls out.
The direct measurement involves a little work; A) In a non-LSD equipped rear, you jack up one rear wheel free from the ground.Index the driveshaft and index the rear tire. Then rotate the tire one time and count the driveshaft revolutions. Then divide those revolutions by two. B) if you have a SureGrip, you have to jack up both rear wheels clear, and do not divide the result by two.
Indexing means marking one rotating member adjacent to a fixed member. As to the tire, it is usually it is indexed to the ground. As to the driveshaft, it is usually indexed to the pinion house.I use a paint marker. At the tire I lay a stick or cardboard next to it and again use the paint marker.Turning the tire just once requires great accuracy in counting the driveshaft revolutions. For greater accuracy, more turns of the tire can be done. The method is the same:
Driveshaft revolutions/tire revolutions x 1/2 for an open diff.only.
Ps, don't forget to put the tranny in neutral,lol

Using the rpm versus mph, method, the formula is
mph=(rpm x tire roll-out)/1056 x R1R2......rearranging the formula, we get
R2= 1/(mph x 1056R1)/( rpm x tr)
rollout is the tire circumference, and the Rs are the reduction ratios

example; R2=1/ [60 x 1056 x 1.00(direct third gear)]/(2240 x 78) and
R2 = 1/63360/174720.....R2=1/.3626...and R2=2.76

Your turn!

If mileage is important, the A833od is hard to beat. You can use 1/.73 = 37% more rear gear, and have exactly the same rpm at 60 mph that you now enjoy, and have more than 37% more take-off power than now. I say more than 36% cuz I have forgotten the A230s low ratio. If it is 2.95 than you would get an additional 3.09/2.95=plus 4.7% For a total of over 41%. This is a very huge performance improvement. It is like bolting on a turbo. The 37% gear increase is equal to going from 2.76s to 3.78s. or from 3.23s to 4.42s. I suggest you limit your rear gear to 3.73s or 3.91s max, as in this case more is not more. The 3.73s x 3.09 low is a starter gear of 11.53, which is pretty low. Second gear will come up pretty fast, and top of second will be about 47mph. Then you will have to pull that stinking direct gear all the way to your chosen cruising speed, starting from about 2400rpm,ouch.
So IMO 3.73s are about tops with that A833od and the 225slanty. 3.73s will cruise 65=2400 with a 78inch rollout or 24.8 inch tire; which is about the same as it would cruise with 2.76s and no overdrive.
The tranny, I think, should be a straight swap with the addition of a new shifter.
The tranny can be had as cheap as $50 at swap meets 30 minutes before the guy wants to go home without it. The shifter will cost you more. More typically guys might ASK for $450,shifter included. IDK if you can get 3.73s for a 7.25, but 3.55s are still available. New price is usually around the $250 mark for gears, plus an installation bearing kit, cuz you said there are filings currently making a home in your unit. Plus the cost of installation, and I bet you don't have an LSD, so you are gonna need one as the slanty will spin one skinny 225 pretty easily with a 11.5 starter gear. So by now that 7.25 is looking pretty pricey, at maybe getting close to $1000 after all is said and done.
Since the 3.73s and O/D may be the same as your current gear, you will never make back the cost of the install. Let the smile on your face be payment enough for the newfound driving experience.
Winding the slanty up to 4500 in first with 3.09 x 3.73s =29mph with those 24.8 tires, will be a whole entire new BIG-FUN experience! Even with the current carburetion/exhaust. Try not to giggle. Men are not supposed to giggle. Little girls giggle. And sometimes wives giggle.....

Oh yeah, you don't have to go to 3.73s. You can go less. And if your final drive ratio ends up less than the current one, then it's possible that the engine will make more mpgs, and perhaps that is also welcome. So some compromise mightworl best for you. But consider that the 3.09 low gearis an automatic 4.7 % increase over a 2.95 low gear, and I guessed at the A230s low being that. If the A230 starter is closer to 2.6 then it's a whole new ballgame again.

Click to expand...

Ok now you got me confused haha. You keep switching back and forth between the Trans and the rear gear and it's hard for me to keep up as I know little if not anything about the rear and the numbers associated with it. I intend on putting a a833 in place of my current a230 and as for when you went into the rpm numbers I can't monitor that as my dash has no tackometer to begin with. Please help me understand this better.

Check the diff cover bolts for a metal tag with the gear ratio on it.

Mid to late ‘70’s, Chrysler stopped using the gear ratio tags on the inspection plate cover, for the most part. Why, IDK, but having the tag takes out any guesswork.

In the ‘90’s, Chrysler started to engrave the ratio, VIN and other data onto the housing, but even then it is hard to find (caked with dirt, rusted beyond legible, etc.).

I would jack car up and check for a tag, first. Be sure to use jack-stands!
I doubt the tag would be there – but maybe you are lucky.

Next option would be to either use the method AJ/FormS spoke about OR remove the inspection cover and read the numbers straight off of the ring gear.

Both ways work, but last method is a bit more oily. You did mention you had metal flakes to clean out, didn’t you?

The differential ring gear has the part number, gear ratio, date of manufacture and some other numbers that won’t make any sense to anyone – and is the most accurate way of determining ratio.
Examples: (stolen from eBay)



The tire spin method, in car, generally takes two people to do. Marking the tire and driveshaft helps a lot. I generally have to spin tire 10 times to get a good reading, but friends of mine can do it in less.

You have a high probability your differential is 7¼” with a non-limited slip carrier.
Nothing wrong with that for a /6 or stock 318 – with exception of availability of gear ratios and limited slip carriers.

The 8¼” has more availability of parts – but finding an assembly to install is getting more difficult.


If I had the choice of adding either gears or Super Six carb setup: gears will make the biggest difference (but I would ultimately do both).
Getting an 833 with overdrive would also be high on my list – but there is more to that upgrade (ie: floor modification, shifter, etc.)

BudW

You are right some of the wording was a bit ambiguous, and there were lots of grammar errors. I edited it for clearer reading.
Without a tach, you are gonna have to go to plan 2) or 3) in post #13.
I wouldn't trust the tag to be correct,after all these years, so for me that leaves just the direct calculation.
Oh and plan#4, detailed by BUD, in post #16.Which I missed.

Trannys and diffs are all torque multipliers. They take the engine torque and multiply it to match the torque requirement of the current driving situation, to what the engine has available.
So if the rear gear was 4.0 and the tranny low was 3.0, than the overall gearing would be 4x3=12 . If the rear gear was 3.0 and the tranny was 4.0, the overall would still be 3x4=12. Numerically speaking the engine wouldn't know the difference.
Gears are like levers. If you want to lift up the side of a car, without a jack, what do you do? You go get yourself a nice long wooden beam, and a block of wood, and you lever it up. If the car doesn't go up,the beam isn't long enough.
It's the same with gears. If the car doesnt take off fast enough, we use a lower gear, whether the gear is in the tranny or in the diff. the engine doesn't care.
There is a trade-off
Going back to jacking up the car; you will notice that the long beam, to lift the car, will travel very far on the end furthest from the block, and only a little on the other end. But the longer the bar, the less force you have to apply to get the job done.
It's the same with gears.The more torque multiplication you have, the easier the engine can move it's mass. So in low gear , a 12 to 1 ratio is plenty, and an 8 to 1 sux big time.
Your current overall gearing might be 2.95 (in the tranny) times 2.73 (in the diff) for a total of 8.05 to 1. But what does this number mean? It means the engine will move 8.05 revolutions for each one revolution of the rear axles.
With the 3.09 low (of the A833od) and the 3.73 diff(previously discussed) this comes to;3.09x3.73=11.53. Now the engine will turn 11.53 revolutions for each turn of the axles. More turns means the work gets easier.In this case 11.53/8.05 = plus 43%
But what does plus 43% mean,exactly? Well say your engine could make 50 ft lbs of torque at 1500 rpm, which might be the rpm that you take off at now. Multiplying that 50, times the 8.05 starter gear, means your axles are putting out 402ft lbs which is used to get the machine moving at a rate that you have become accustomed to. Now let's work it out with the new starter gear of 11.53. Ok the 50 x 11.53=577 ftlbs at the rear axles. And this is 577/402= plus 43%. Badaboom; there is that 43 % again. I think this compares to a turbo on 3 pounds of boost. This new found torque can be used in two ways; 1), is to get the machine moving much more quickly, and 2) you can get the machine moving at the same rate as before the swap, but with a whole bunch less gas-pedal.

Thank you both for the help. I will look into the diff tonight when I get home, in the case that I have the 7 1/4 rear, where would I be able to go from there and would it be difficult to perform the transition?

WTB A230 3 speed manual transmission
Well,I did a quick search, and it appears that there are two versions of the A230, and yours probably has ratios of 3.08-1.70-1.00. This is nearly identical to the A833od which has 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od. That means bye-bye to the 4.7% advantage, leaving just the rear gear advantage


Now to answer your question. The 8.25 offers no real advantage to you. Whatever you get, it's not likely to have 3.55s, nor is it likely to have an LSD.So that means whatever you are going to do to the 7.25 will also have to be done to the 8.25
The 8.25 has 10 inch brakes and 5 on 4.5 axles, just like your Volare, but IIRC the backing plates are not swappable. So the only advantage is strength. And I don't see that as an advantage,cuz your slanty will have a hard time breaking anything in the 7.25, especially after the LSD goes in. Plus you are gonna be replacing all the bearings anyway, on account of you said yours was currently shedding iron . So after the swap, Everything inside that 7.25 will have been changed.
The only possible advantage I see is resale. If you install 3.55s and an LSD into an 8.25, that item is instantly saleable. So if at some point in the future, you decide to go back to your current combo( nobody will buy that off you),it's no problem to sell that 8.25 as a complete swap.
So I know dropping a grand on a 7.25 sounds crazy, but in this case, I see it as a reasonable thing to do.
Of course for a couple of grand more you could install yourself a turbo, and leave the powertrain as it is.................
I suppose you could post an ad in the want-ads and see what develops.

Finding parts for the 7¼”, like ring and pinion sets, is getting pretty hard to find.

I did find a couple in eBay today – but I would want to ask some major questions before purchasing them:
CHRYSLER 7.25" AXLE RING & PINION 3:23 RATIO C7.25-323 | eBay
CHRYSLER 7.25" AXLE RING & PINION 3:55 RATIO C7.25-355 | eBay

The 3.55 ring gear is upside down!

I don’t recall a Dakota ever having a 7¼ rear axle. Front yes, but rear, no. If this is a front gear set, then the teeth are in wrong direction for your car. (note: I am not a Dakota expert).
Example of gear set teeth direction: (pics stolen from eBay).


A great price for a gear set, if the correct one, but I would want to see pictures of ring gear as well as the part number / ratio / date stamp on it, first.

It also appears to have been sand blasted/bead blasted as well. Not that that effects much, except for the tooth contact area. If teeth has been sand blasted, then gear set will make more noise than normal.
I hadn’t seen any other 7¼” gear sets for a long time, outside of the 2.2/2.4 range.
BudW