360 Magnum

brotherGood

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To extend that..if the thread was in the member build area..documenting everything done on the members car..thats ok because it's a non-specific subtopic.

Maybe it's the fact that I've seen this happen and been accused of it before..if the mods are cool with it then so be it
 

Oldiron440

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If I can come up with the parts you need I will help you out at my cost$...
You need the 27 spline correct?.....
 

Bruceynz

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Well I would like to find a rear end I could just drop straight in with a LSD in it, one with clutches, my current set is out of a 1976 360 Volare R/T I was told. I dunno how hard it will be to find a 8.25" to bolt in, its a thought at this stage. If one was to come up in your area on a 3.21 maybe something may be able to be done, but freighting things like that around is expensive so if one was local to where you live would make it cheaper!
 

Oldiron440

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Like I've said, these parts worth nata zizp, nothing to the guys I know . So let me help.
I will put it out that I'm looking for this this junk and we well see.
 
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BudW

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Iits the clutch type right (not the cone)
Mopar 8 1/4 posi unit
These are both cone style
$300USD by the time I get it will be $700NZD plus! So the best option would be to get this one DANA TRAC LOK POSI 8.25" 27 Spline MOPAR Chrysler 75101X Differential Carrier | eBay and use my install kit and my 3.21 gear set out of my current rear end?
This one is clutch style.

If you have the horsepower that can spin both wheels at once, fairly easily – then either (clutch or cone) type will work just fine (providing it’s not wore out, already).
It is the cars that put enough power to only spin one tire (without limited slip) all of the time – are the ones that are hard on clutches (or cones).

The 3.21’s are nice for both town and highway usage.
3.55’s are really nice in town gear with some highway usage (limited but can be done).
3.73’s or lower (higher numerically) would be really fun in town but would get irritating on the highway.

If you were to keep your 3.21’s, you can switch out to limited slip in your garage (recommended for a specialist), especially if you do not remove the pinion gear from your housing. If a person is going through that much work, installing all new bearings would be the way to go.
I believe you have what it takes to press off/on the large bearings. Just keep any of the shims behind the large pinion bearing and reuse.

If you are changing out gears – like to 3.55’s, the setup is more involved and there I would HIGHLY recommend taking to a specialist.
It is getting the distance of the middle of pinion gear to the center of axle shafts – which is the hard part. If using a gear made by Chrysler, you can go from end/edge of pinion gear to centerline of axle shafts – so a little bit easier. Aftermarket gear set are slightly more involved (nothing wrong with using aftermarket gear sets). Once set up correctly – you don’t have to worry about it, again.

The ring gear bearings are much easier to setup.
Chrysler makes a special took that makes setting the ring gear easier. It is a 1-3/16” hex (note I might be off on the exact size – going by memory) tool that is inserted through the axle tubes to adjust those bearings. I have a low tech tool in my garage for that (ie: a C-body torsion bar works great) purpose.

Depending on year the housing was made as to clearance space – but many times you have space/clearance to get a pair of snap ring pliers in to perform the adjustments (but not in all cases) They make a tool to use – but these do not work as well as 90 degree angle snap ring pliers.
Spanner a.jpg


In your case, It sounds like 3.55’s or 3.73’s will increase the “smile” factor, a lot. The limited slip is a must – and sense you are in there, you might as well do both (in my opinion).

I have no problem using either new or used gears or limited slip unit – but am hesitant on recommending an unknown or used cone type carrier – only because they are non-rebuildable. I can do the work in my sleep blindfolded so if I can save a buck – so I will reuse a cone carrier.
That said, sense parts are not available at every street corner down under – and sense clutch kits are (and will be for a long time) available – I suggest getting a clutch type limited slip.

Gears – as long as gears are not rusty enough to cause pitting, new or used gears will be fine (if considering changing gears, that is).


In my case, I have plans on driving my cars every day including driving to car shows out of state. 3.21’s will be fine for me. If I need a lower ratio (higher numerically) – I have a pair of short tires I can toss on that will give me what I want (until I put normal tires back onto car). Speedometer/odometer will be off - but I'm only talking about temporary usage.


Unrelated, I do have a new set of aftermarket 8¼” 3.55 gears up for sale (or trade)
BudW
 

Bruceynz

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I think the best option would be the clutch type, Old Iron 440 is putting the word out there to see whats available, see what turns up, I can always buy that the bits and change mine over but if we could get a rear end and rebuild there it maybe a better option as an expert can set it up and check it over.
 

jasperjacko

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My 2 cents: I have 3.55's and they annoy me on the highway. Can't wait to get an overdrive in this thing.
 

Bruceynz

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Bud, AJ Forms, Old Iron 440 am I best to just get this off ebay and have it sent to NZ, I am like a dizzy duck, this one is a cheapest price on ebay I am unsure what Chrysler used cones/clutch packs in the F/M/J cars. I am confused, Old Iron thinks he may turn up something at a good price, so I am always after the best deal I can get, the car is running ok now so if I don't do power take offs I am not going to blow my rear end so I have time.

DANA TRAC LOK POSI 8.25" 27 Spline MOPAR Chrysler 75101X Differential Carrier | eBay
 

Oldiron440

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I made my calls tonight and came up empty handed..........
One of guys talked with said that in July he scraped most of his iron heads and "odd stuff" witch includes four 8.25 LS diffs. He said he just got tired of halling them to and from swap meets.
 

Bruceynz

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Ok, dam dam dam so I might get the one on ebay and get it sent to NZ and rebuild rear end here. Whats this special tool I need, someone made one out of a socket and a bolt I saw ages ago. Old Iron 440 many thanks for your help!
 

AJ/FormS

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In post 312 I talked about an overdrive.I was not implying that you should rush out and get one, only that for performance, our Mopes could sure use one.
There is about a 200 rpm spread between 28inch tires, and 26s. I exploited that once with 3.55s.
65 was 2770 with the tall boys.
And the performance was 7.7% stronger with the 26s.
3.55s are 10.6% stronger than your 3.21s.
You're probably running 26s or so now.
So, those will run 2700@65 with the short tires.
Conclusion; With 3.55s and short tires you could enjoy nearly 11% more performance. While on long trips suffer only a 70 rpm penalty at 65mph.
Suggestion; Hire Bud to install an LSD in his 3.55, and get it shipped to you. Then hire a local to install it for you.You may need a different speed-O gear.
Alternatively
Or put some tires on your car, at least 275/60-15s, that you can't hardly spin,lol.And get about a 400rpm higher stall; Shazzam! Then work on your starting line technique. You may need a sandbag or two over the rr wheel,lol.
The 275s are 28" and so will cruise at 65=2500, solving two problems. But she'll lose a little off the line, creating one. The plus 400TC will take care of that, and the sandbags will solve the peg-legging.
Or so the theory goes,lol. I put my battery back there and killed at least three birds with one stone.I ran a big fat cable inside the car thru the passenger side shield down at the outboard edge of the carpet. Then up and thru the firewall. They make a bulkhead connector for that. But I drilled a big hole there and ran the cable thru a conduit there, and sealed it water tight.I moved the starter relay over to the passenger frame rail down close to the firewall where the cable came thru. I The starter cable was long enough to go up over the bellhouse and I terminated it at the relay. Then I just lengthened the signal wires as required. The battery was,of course, secured with HD tie-down J-hooks, anchored to a bar under the floor.I used a Dry-cell Optima. A lead-acid battery would need a special acid-proof container.
Moving 60 or so pounds off the front to the rear changed my rear bias nearly 2%, good deal! ,to about 49.2%, before my heavy bones climb aboard.lol.
Happy HotRodding.
 
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BudW

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Well, I do have an 8¼” assembly at home (2.94 ratio, out of an ’84 police car) – but it’s going into my 5th Ave when it gets warmer outside (March 2018). I’m so sick and tired of the 2.2 ratio gears currently in the car.

Other 8¼” parts in my garage:
Used Cone type limited slip carrier (to go into my 84 assembly, mentioned above), along with a new bearing set (not yet obtained).
Used 2.71 ring and pinion gear set (dated 2-10-1970)
New 3.55 ring and pinion gear set (aftermarket)
End (that's it).
I do have a lot of 8¾” parts in my garage. I will be installing 8¾’s into both cars, once I can get my hands on a couple of housings (they are always too far, or I’m too late to the sale).


On a different note: I have been saying my wagon has 3.21’s in it. Actually that is not exactly true – but darn close.
The wagon came from factory with 2.94’s and cone type limited slip, as well as F78-14’s.
F78-14’s have an approximate height of 26.5” (rough equivalent is 205/75R14 (26.14”) or 215/75R14 (26.69”), the later size will be used for reference).

I currently have a set of 14’s that are 195/70R14 which are 24.75” tall – which are roughly two inches shorter in diameter. Those two inches effectively changes my gear ratio from 2.94 to 3.17 (pretty darn close to 3.21’s).
That said, my speedometer/odometer error is 17% (reads 65 when traveling 60 MPH), when using those tires).

Putting shorter tires on a car can give a person a quick gear ratio change, um, fairly quick.
The tires on my 5th Ave (which should be the same as what came originally on your Cordoba) is 215/75R15 – which are 27.13” in diameter.
If I was to install the same 195/70R14’s on it, and with a gear ratio of 2.21 – it would give me an effective gear ratio of 2.47 and speedometer error of 20% (reads 67 when traveling 60 MPH).

For long term use, replacing the speedometer gear to correct tooth count would be needed – but what I did was for temporary usage (ie: timed or un-timed acceleration trials, etc.).

On the other hand, I have installed 5th Ave sized tires (I have a bunch of tires/wheels in my garage) onto my wagon which gave it a higher gear ratio (lower numerically) for long distance trips. That gave me an effective gear ratio of 2.83 and speedometer error of -3.75% (reads 58 when going 60).
Note: I am thinking about using this height tires on my wagon, after I install 15” police wheels on it after I upgrade the front brakes to the larger brakes (which means 14” wheels will no longer fit). Again, the only thing holding me up on that project is finding a good set of police wheels . . .
BudW
 

BudW

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In the late 60’s, Chrysler changed over from Clutch type to Cone type limited slip, because of costs. After ’68? – If a person was to find a Clutch type limited slip in a Chrysler product – then someone installed it, after vehicle was purchased, new.
BudW
 

Bruceynz

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Well she is going strong, first trip to work which is a quite a few miles from home and she didn't miss a beat!

She looks odd ball parked in the carpark at work thats for sure! But I think it is the coolest car there!

car_park.jpg
 

Oldiron440

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Looks great, people must come up and ask what it is.
But at this point it's an odd duck in the U.S. also!
But still cool.
 
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