laquer paint
- Thread starter kwobbler
- Start date
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Are you doing a complete or a spot repair?
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
For spot repair you can probably get by with going over the lacquer paint. But for a complete I would highly recommend stripping the lacquer off including all underlying paint. The lacquer paint over a factory baked enamel paint was common thirty years ago. Sometimes these paint jobs wood last the life of the car, usually fifteen to twenty years or so. Today's paints are urethane based, some of the base colors can and will react to the lacquer when sprayed over top. And when done you will have baked enamel, lacquer and then urethane enamel top cotes, not a durable paint job.
I think at this point a complete strip to bare metal is needed then build up with appropriate primers and paint. This will give the most durability and the only way paint manufacturers guaranty there paints.
The user has to be certified in there products as well.
I think at this point a complete strip to bare metal is needed then build up with appropriate primers and paint. This will give the most durability and the only way paint manufacturers guaranty there paints.
The user has to be certified in there products as well.
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Aspen500
Well-Known Member
For strip to bare metal job, if you have a shop do the job, be sure they use self etching primer on any and all bare metal and then the regular primer/surfacers, sealers, etc. Any GOOD body shop will use self etching but some not so good ones tend to skip that step. In other words, research the body shop first. The paint might look excellent for a while but then surface rust will start all over the place if steps are skipped. Usually that's on cars that are driven in winter where road salt is used, but can happen anywhere if it's wet and humid. One little chip and the rust starts spreading under the paint and keeps on going.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
If an epoxy primer is used a self etching primer should not be used first. I actually prefer epoxy over self etching. I have found a industrial ppg epoxy that is scannable and works very well under body work and is $150 for two spayabel gallons.
lowbudget
Well-Known Member
What PPG Epoxy is that?
PPG Shopline epoxy primer. I think PPG may be naming their product line. If you say shopline then your supplier knows what you need. Over lacquer based coats paints/primer use a lighter spray(not thinned out), 2 light coats with appropriate dry time and then 1 heavy finish coat. Old paints may seem good and intact soften quickly when a solvent base product is applied. Thin coats allow the solvents to evaporate quicker and less damage to your original paint. New paint systems require that you read all the directions. Recoat windows are the biggest problem for these systems.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I believe that its EP200 but I'll have to check. I've still got two gallons in a case.
