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The trans will work easily in your car if you use a TFOD-3 kit, but you will need to manually shift it. I prefer manual shift over automatic so its totally preference, OD and lockup are always toggled via switches. I have a 42RE in my 80 Volare with a tfod-3, lockup disabled and OD on a switch...

Old thread, but I managed to find a set after a LOT of searching, one from Rockauto and one from EBay. Though I used them backwards to add more negative camber to my suspension for better handling, I was still only able to get about -1.2 camber though

Installed a 5 clutch drum and associated parts from my A999 while I had it down.

More pictures of the trans tunnel since unfortunately it had to come back down to fix a front seal leak.

I should have included that the speedometer cable does not reach the new location (its in the overdrive housing on this transmission) I need to buy the 80' speedo cable, I'm using the GPS Speedo in my phone for the time being lol

Larger yes, somewhat off centre, not really. It's pretty straight inline with the motor and rear end and all that's correct, to answer your last question, I have it set to a toggle switch on my dash for OD and lockup, but I'll be moving to pressure switches to control it automatically once money...

Zero problems with floorpan clearance on our cars (2 door F body's at least) but the upper crossmember needed to be cut/grinded significantly to allow the tailshaft to sit in the correct position. I would say probably about 3/4 of it needed to come out, the piece I left that you can see in the...

It can be done, but you have to cut the bellhousing off... JW Performance 92457: Ultra-Bell Bellhousing Big Block Chrysler to TF-727 | JEGS

Some better pics of my modified crossmember compared to an original. Mostly just grinding on the front and back along with cutting the original mount "ears" off.

Here's a picture of the shift linkage hooked up, the 42RH doesn't have the upper locating tab for the bracket but I used some locktite and tightened it down well and it doesn't seem to move and its been shifting well the last couple days but I'm still worried so I may drill a small hole in the...

Also, the cost of the swap all done is about $650-$700CAD including the rebuild kit but not including the man hours of cutting, grinding and welding. I'll have to gather my receipts and do a full breakdown of the expenses.

Yes, lower 1st and second gear. And the reason for the swap is better mileage, taller first gears for better acceleration, and the possibility to put taller rear gears in while keeping highway rpm down.

And I'm actually about to pull it out to throw a coat of paint on it before I start daily driving it again on Monday, so I'll take some better pictures and some measurements!

I took lots of measurements before I started and ended up putting it up and taking it down a few times to do more grinding. I'm confident I got it in the perfect spot, the angle looks good to me and is the exact same as it was with the old 904, and I have no vibrations at all so far, even using...

I'm running 3.23s right now and turn just about 2000rpm at 110kmh, part of the reasoning for the swap is so I can throw some taller gears in, I'm thinking probably 3.90s or 4.10s. They'll still be turning less rpm than the 3.23s without overdrive.

I didn't see too many threads with pictures here or people who've done it so I decided to make one to start. I just finished swapping an '88 42RH into my 1980 Volare. Only the crossmember needed work to make it fit. The factory column shifter bolted up and works well, and I'm using a lokar...

I do have a spare set I'm doing exactly that with, I'm thinking I may just stick with rubber as I've only heard bad things about poly and control arms. And are those Firm Feel reinforcement plates?

Yea, I have poly on the sway bar, shocks, K-frame mounts, bump stops, and transmission mount and love it. That's why I was thinking about the poly control arm bushings. The poly K-frame mounts handle significantly better than the rubber doughnuts and I didn't notice any harshness increase...

I'm doing the same with my Volare control arms, I pulled a set from a Roadrunner parts car and I'm going to media blast, paint them, and install my new offset upper control arm shafts. I haven't decided on whether to use Poly or Rubber bushings yet though, I own a set of both...

I've seen stuff showing the solid design does actually "bend" less under heavy use than the slit designed sleeve, I'm not sure the 9/16 vs 11/16 makes a huge difference though, but they sure look cool ;)

To be honest I didn't know there was a difference lol both ends are the same and it fit in fine, no rubbing on the oil pan or anything like that.

No, I used the nylock nut and threadlocker by choice, I fucking hate castle nuts lol

Yep its a locknut, the threads are just pushing past the nylon end

I've been using this setup for a few days now and its been working great! Steering is more firm feeling and I noticed the car shakes a lot less when I'm going at high speeds. And yes it is! I had some laying around and I thought it would look good haha

So, the time came to change my steering pieces, and upon some research, I found out that our cars share the same length (Ours are .25" shorter) tie rod sleeves from a '73 Charger. Just wanted to let everyone know that the heavy duty version they make fit like a glove :) The parts I used were...