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I'm a network admin. I only get filthy when I want to. lol.

I may be 40+, but my inner 12 year old is screaming the first thing that CNC cuts should be a billet aluminum ding-dong.

I'm 2/3 of the way there then. Maybe we caught it in time. lol

It would certainly turn heads at shows, but there would be absolutely not a single ounce of practicality to it. Just big block it if you're going through all that trouble.

.....but I wear New Balance shoes....and Fruit of the Loom t-shirts...does this mean I need a Corvette??? What am I turning into???

Is the housing bad? Just have it rebuilt. Unless you're looking to upgrade to get rear disc out of the deal.

'66 was the starting year. You're going to have a hard time finding one and when you do you'll be paying through the nose though. Not like what it was even ten years ago. What's your build and the intended usage? If your 8.25" can't cut it I would seriously think about brand X axles.

That is a good price, but apples vs oranges to the FF piece though. Their bars are twice the spring rate.

No difference.

What did you pay for it?

Yes sir. That motor is an animal.

Buddy of mine got into it a while back. Drawing up from scratch can be complicated, but what a lot of people do now is 3D scan the part and then make slight modifications. LIDAR cameras (depth sensing) aren't that expensive anymore and the new Pro/Max iPhones have depth cameras built in.

I'm no expert, but that seems to be splitting the difference between a dual plane and a single manifold. If that little mod gains on the top end, it must me losing something on the bottom end. If this is a street motor I wouldn't mod the manifold. A smogger 318 is never going to spin high...

Super clean J bodies can go for $7k around here. The values are climbing. Saw a absolutely mint Fifth Avenue sell for more than $8k.

I ran those on all four corner for a couple of years. I feel for you. I've got front Bilstein shocks and Edelbrock IAS rears just sitting on the bench if you want them. Better than the KYB shit. To run the Eddies you'll need to switch to B body shocks plates though.

Cutting a few pieces of 3/16" or 1/4" flat stock seems to be easier than sourcing those. Or just buy the kit from FF. It's ALL in the shock selection. You don't need to be riding on a rubber biscuit. The rubber ISO setup is just going to introduce more deflection as the axle tries to roll...

Nope, honest question. Never owned an AHB. I know most of the differences, but not all of them. Any particular reason to justify the trouble over using the non-fleet model shackles considering their ease of availability?

What's the difference?

Firm Feel sells rear shackle kits for these cars. I'm using the same one. B, C, E, F, M & J-Body HD Shackle Kit As far as ISO goes, if I ever do another F/J/M car it's getting ditched for B body shock plates. I'll never mess with that shit again.

Do the 904 cast drums go kaboom like the 727 drums do? When the 518 comes out it's getting a steel drum.

Used to be one of my favorite things to do: just get the 5A and drive. Usually in the dead of night around 2am in the middle of the summer. Windows down and radio up. Need to get back to that.

I really do commend you Camtron. For all the work I've done to my car I've never opened a transmission further than the valve body. Always just took the magic slush box to a shop and tell them, "do the thing." If you plan on another trip up here I've got more parts for you. If you need a BB...

At 128k I'd be rebuilding the front end regardless of squeaks. If you want to do most of it yourself, but don't want to monkey with the control arm bushings or ball joints just take the arms off and take those to a shop. It's what I did.

GIMME! MINE! Dude, thank you so much for posting this. I didn't even haggle for it.