Search results for query: *

The tensioning bolt was so rusted out that I couldn’t salvage. I considered replacing, but it’s very low on the priorities list. I bench bled the master cylinder and was successful in getting the air out, then bled brakes again. I’ll assess my brakes when the car actually moves

Had to remove it when working on the frame and didn’t see a need for it.

I successfully installed a power brake booster on my 79 Volare with the correct linkage. Bled the system correctly and the brakes feel quite loose. The car will stop, but I have to put the pedal to the floor. Any suggestions?

It rolls, but not under its own power

Wouldn’t I hear it if it wasn’t installed correctly?

I’ve got a small leak coming from a cooler line. But I will disconnect at the radiator and watch it. No, the trans was not opened for any work other than a filter change. The car shifts correctly and rolls in the appropriate direction when shifted into R-N-D. I removed the parking break as well.

It was attached to the pump. It’s the only way it would have seated up to the flex plate.

No it doesn’t

Yes. About 20 minutes the first time and then another 20 later. Cycled through the gears a bunch too

It’s hot about 8 in it now. Dipstick is reading full in neutral. And no, I didn’t fill it

I’ve got a small leak coming from a transmission line. Could that mean that the pump is working?

No. I put 4-5 quarts in it to start before I ever started it.

Nope, not that either. Nothing happens when I shift it into a gear. There’s not connection taking place inside the transmission

I got my car all back together and was ready to take it on its maiden voyage and it’s not moving! It’s an a904 connected to my slant 6. I’ve checked the linkage, filled the transmission while warm and in neutral. I’ve cycled it back and forth 30 times or so and ran the car for about an hour...

I had already opened up the holes to install a booster that was meant for an a-body. It’ll fit through the firewall, just doesn’t seem to be clearance from the header.

Even with the Hooker headers?

I received the bendix style brake booster for my 79 Volare and it’s so big that I can’t install without removing my headers. I don’t even know if the darn hood will close it’s so big. It’s the correct one…I’m considering just going back to manual, but I no longer have the original pushrod and...

Any idea where the linkage would be available? I can only find for e-bodies

Throwing this out to the experts… I purchased a brake booster through Summit for my Volare. Evidentially the booster is specific to an a-body, not an f-body. Below are the boosters I’m considering. Two questions: 1. Which booster do you suggest? 2. Will the booster pushrod connect directly...

Would this one work then? Would I still need the swivel linkage? Or does it connect directly to the pedal?

Backfires from the exhaust, so dial back the fuel on the carb…I’ll pull the distributor, I can also rotate back and not install the bolt and provide myself more room to advance. An “A” body…really? I’ll look for an f body specific model. Summit said that one would fit my car.

Thanks! I provided the cam specs. It feels like it’s choking out. It’ll start with choke closed, runs for a moment…then slowly dies out. I’ve tried opening the choke, that also kills it. I’ve tried giving it a little gas, backfires a little then gives out. Im going to clean the carb. The...

Yes!

My name is Josh and I have been rebuilding a 79 Volare duster with a slant 6 for 8 years. The closer I get to done…the harder it seems. I upgraded the cam, carb, intake, exhaust, etc…but I can’t seem to advance the timing enough, the brake pedal won’t match up to the new brake booster and the...

I purchased an in-line tube brake line kit which was designed for a boosted setting. I installed a power brake booster not realizing that the new push rod location would not match the original brake pedal. I purchased a power brake booster swivel linkage for a 70-74 e body…they don’t seem to...