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First gen Libertys had 5 on 4.5, and limited slips are relatively common, 28 spline axles, disc brakes, and either a 3.91 or 4.10 gears.

92 up is the larger ring gear. But yeah, stupid six lug.

The 8 1/4 went to and 8 3/8 ring gear in the early 90s. The larger gear and limited slips are all compatible. Just have to watch for the even later 29 spline axles

Jeep Libertys came with either 3.73 or 4.10 gears in the 8.25, they may use metric ring gear bolts, and the are the later 29 spline axles. The rear disc are a direct bolt on for 8.25 and 9.25 rear ends.

The truck V-10 and the Viper V-10 are very different engines. They do however use the same bell housing bolt pattern.

The filler neck does not have any fasteners at the tank. If it is the flat tank, you are in luck, since those are available. Get hose that is rated for fuel injection, and preferably compatible with ethanol, it will last longer. Regular hose essentially melts in the presence of ethanol.

Expect to replace all of the hoses to the tank. Remove the full neck before you drop it down if you can. Make sure it is as empty as possible. Be damn careful with the hardware and the straps, not to mention that the tank you have is pretty much unobtainable.

I wish mine looked so good

The difference between police and civilian bars are the bushing at the control arm. "Police Bars" had Moog sourced, and Civilian were TRW sourced. The spring rates are the same

Depending on who you listen to, we are in for 2-10 inches of white crap here

There is an adjustable valve on top of the steering gear. There is a procedure in the service manual for adjustment. Sounds like yours is just off a tiny bit. There are two screws in the body with the hose fittings, you loosen them slightly and bump the valve to the left or right to adjust...

A kit for a B-body would probably be the closest.

The FFI 1.25" sway bar is on my list of upgrades... probably before carpet.

The yoke is different, it seems like it was around 4 inches shorter when swapping to a 727. If you need a yoke, let me know, I have a few extras.....

They started welding then sometime in the early 80s due to concerns that the nut could back off

The boosters in turbo cars are dual diaphragm and are smaller diameter than non turbo. For a master go with a 79-80 master cylinder.

The stud spacing is the same on the K-car booster as the earlier (sae) booster, just have to use metric nuts.

I have also seen brand new spark plug wires that were bad, read as open with a meter.

WOW, that is crazy

Adding the flex pipes can help with exhaust clearance when you have a tight fit, allows the pipes to be more firmly mounted. For guys with headers, it usually help prevent cracking and collector gasket failure.

I went with the Doug's for ground clearance. They are also super easy to install or remove. Hooker, Hedman, Pacemaker and Summit are all similar in they go under the steering on the driver side. There are a ton of no brand copies of the Hookers, out there as well. There were even some...

Summit, Classic, Jegs, etc all sell the Wheel Vintique series 69 reproduction. I have the 15x8s on the back of my car.

Any that fit A,B, and E-bodies. I have Doug's D-453s and they fit exceptionally well.

LED light strips, on a custom backer fitted inside the housing

Greetings from Wisconsin