318 camshaft

alf44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
592
Reaction score
15
Location
southern MN
86 318 from a 5th ave, 904 auto, 8 1/4 rear ratio unknown, going in 79 volare 2 door. rear tires either 215-75-15 or 235-75-15. wanting to use a Comp cams shaft and lifter set. cam #249. intake lift .432,exh lift .444, intake duration @ .050 206,exh duration @.050 212. advertised duration 250/260. hyd flat tappet. ad says strong torque- smooth idle-great gas millage. this is what im looking for .cost is 240.00. any advise you can give me?:smileinbox:
 

Mr C

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
403
Reaction score
137
In my experience 235-75-15 will rub on an M body...so I imagine its the same with a F body. If you want decent mileage leave it stock...any cam swap will hurt mileage compare to the stock one...if mileage is of prime concern.
 

alf44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
592
Reaction score
15
Location
southern MN
im running 235-75-15 now and they do not rub anywhere. im not looking for hybrid type gas milage, that is not a concern. i want a new cam to replace old one and while im in there might as well get a bit more power . ive had 215-75-15 on my m body and plenty of room
 

NoCar340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
178
Location
Upper MI
I'd suggest a Summit/Pioneer/Wolverine/Speed-Pro (they've all sold it) K6900. Pretty close to stock 340 specs and a little more duration than the Comp. Cheaper, too. K6900 is Summit's part number for it, but there are other many other brands selling the same cam, as I mentioned.

Cam card
 

brotherGood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
884
Reaction score
158
Location
Urbana OH
Yeah, Ive got the 6900 in my car. The K6900 is the cam/lifter kit. 100 bucks for the whole thing.
 

Mr C

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
403
Reaction score
137
im running 235-75-15 now and they do not rub anywhere. im not looking for hybrid type gas milage, that is not a concern. i want a new cam to replace old one and while im in there might as well get a bit more power . ive had 215-75-15 on my m body and plenty of room

Wow, when I tried 235 75 15s on my 5th, they rubbed in front when turning...I'm running 215s now with no trouble. I found the largest tire I could run on an M was a 225 75 15.
 

brotherGood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
884
Reaction score
158
Location
Urbana OH
My fronts are 225/70, and backs are 235/75. Don't have any issues with rubbing there.

A cam spec'd more for torque and towing I would think would help a little with mileage..since its getting the mass moving with less force. I was considering a fuel run on mine, but I'd have to stay out of it. Granted, I had more problems with the old motor that I could count...my best MPG run was 14.7..all highway.
 
Last edited:

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
My fronts are 225/70, and backs are 235/75. Don't have any issues with rubbing there.

A cam spec'd more for torque and towing I would think would help a little with mileage..since its getting the mass moving with less force. I was considering a fuel run on mine, but I'd have to stay out of it. Granted, I had more problems with the old motor that I could count...my best MPG run was 14.7..all highway.

my 89 2bbl 318 has been right arounnd 10-11mpg. haven't been able to nail down the cause. on a quick hijack, I ordered a rebuild kit for my TQ
 

brotherGood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
884
Reaction score
158
Location
Urbana OH
Im interested to see what everything new will do for my MPG. The only thing that hasn't been changed that could effect it would be lines from about the trans back. But, I don't see any signs of leaking, so who knows. Better flowing intake, better flowing heads, torquier cam, true dual exhaust. New coil, ballast, dist., cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ECU, VR...there isn't much else left over. Hopefully I'll get normal mileage at least.
 

NoCar340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
178
Location
Upper MI
Unless you still have the ESA, try experimenting with your timing if you're looking for fuel economy. Namely, experiment with more spark advance. In light, part-throttle driving engines like timing--a lot of it.

Optimizing timing should be done by virtually everyone with a distributor that has some kind of advance mechanism. Why? Base timing on every production car ever built is, by necessity, a compromise. The base timing on a manual-transmission base '76 Volare coupe is the same as in a full-boat '76 Coronet wagon, regardless of engine (as long as they both have the same engine, that is). They didn't alter it across models or options, so the engineers had to designate a timing setting that would work in a worst-case scenario; if Grandma just drove the F-body to church by herself in Seattle it's a lot less load than if Uncle Elron put on a class 3 hitch and decided to tug a 28' camper and all five kids up Pike's Peak.

There are a number of ways to skin this proverbial cat, but I think the most-enjoyable and easiest method is the "Big Fat Friend" procedure. If you've got an aftermarket camshaft, carb, exhaust, etc. you might be surprised how much timing you can actually put into the car, which will not only increase economy but overall performance. In my stock 340 I ran 12° BTDC without problem; my mildly-built 440 was at 15° and my Pontiac 400, slow-burning bastard that it was, was set at an astounding 24° BTDC (it was also nearly impossible to start while warm on an average summer's day). I can't remember exactly where it laneded on all my cars, but rarely has my base timing ever been below double digits. Not surprisingly, my 400 Poncho got the best economy of the bunch. Incidentally, the guy who bought that car from me backed the timing off to 18° BTDC base. It slowed the car down a whole bunch, but damn if it wouldn't start every single time. :icon_biggrin:
 

brotherGood

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
884
Reaction score
158
Location
Urbana OH
What if I am the "Big, Fat" part of that. (myself and I aren't friends, we don't see eye to eye.)
 

NoCar340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
178
Location
Upper MI
Get a bigger, fatter friend and go read the thread I just started.
 

alf44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
592
Reaction score
15
Location
southern MN
Wow, when I tried 235 75 15s on my 5th, they rubbed in front when turning...I'm running 215s now with no trouble. I found the largest tire I could run on an M was a 225 75 15.

i have those 235 s in the rear. 215-75-15 front
 

Mr C

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
403
Reaction score
137
my 89 2bbl 318 has been right arounnd 10-11mpg. haven't been able to nail down the cause. on a quick hijack, I ordered a rebuild kit for my TQ

I'm confused...you say its a 2bbl, but then mention a TQ...those are 4bbls. Is it a stock Lean Burn still?
 

NoCar340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
178
Location
Upper MI
He bought a ThermoQuad and intake recently. I think he still has the ESA and is looking at options to remove it...
 

Monkeyed

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
701
Reaction score
76
Location
West MI
He bought a ThermoQuad and intake recently. I think he still has the ESA and is looking at options to remove it...

^This. Have you had a chance to look for an extra float bowl? I got my old floats out, but the needle seats only make about a half a turn then stick, I'm starting to think more and more seriously about just shipping the lot off to you, NoCar.

On a different note, put new calipers and pads on the front, (the left was rusted solid) and new shoes in the back, (the right adjusting cable broke, and the adjuster was rusted solid), and now the water pump looks to be weeping. :crybaby2: the belts need to be replaced, so at least I hadn't just done that.
 
Back
Top