318 la or 318 magnum

AJ/FormS

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It is really hard to argue against 42 cubic inches, especially for a streeter. If I was swapping engines,looking for a lil performance, the 318/5.2 would not be on my list,period.
If I was somehow limited to a 318LA, the very first thing I would do is increase the compression ratio. No matter how broke I was, I would sooner do that and bolt the 2bbl back on.
But before I would do anything; you know, gears and stall.
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Wait; remember the first gen 318 LAs back in the sixtys. Those were 9.5Scr rated and 230 crank HP. With the 240* cam, the 2bbl, log manifolds and single exhaust. What was that in Net? There was no Net for that engine, so you gotta guess. And I guess 190 net. Compared to 230 of the 5.2Ms. That's 40 hp.
Where does that come from? Well; The 5.2 cam is
250/264/110+19 and the 318LA was
240/248/112+2
So some of the power is in the cam and bigger TB, on account of the operating rpm was increased about 300rpm, so that accounts for perhaps 15 to 20HP. So that leaves 20 to go. I'll guess the rest is in the heads.

Now recall the smoggerteen with its 150hp rating...... Still the 240* cam, still a 2bbl, same single exhaust. So where did the estimated 190 less 150 =40 hp go?
I'll guess some was in the lower 8.0Scr rating, some was in the lazy timing, and the rest was in the new rating system. How much to give to each? IDK. I'll guess 10 to 15 in the compression and 8 to 10 in the timing, leaving about 15 to 20 in the paperwork.
The point is this; bolt-on for bolt-on, the un-opened smoggerteen has an 80hp deficit to the 5.2M. It's in the Scr, the cam, the heads, and the rating system.
At 230, the M is .72 hp per cube.
At 150, the smoggerteen is .47 hp per cube.
To get to 230, at .47 hp per cube, you would need 230/.47= 489 cubes ; that's how lazy the smogger teen is.
Ok but say you installed your bolt-ons onto a good smoggerteen and she output 200hp, so now .63 hp per cube. To get to 230 with .63, you would need 230/.63=366 cubes.
I know you keep saying you don't need a tire frier, but you also keep throwing in 4bbl, headers, and now alloy heads. Look; you can dress up a pig to go to church, but it's still just a pig.
But your bolt-ons, onto a 5.2M at say 270hp net with a "baby cam" is .85 hp per cube and a pretty good engine....... but still not a tire frier with 2.2/2.45 gears and a factory stall TC.
Sure you can build a 318LA up to that 270 hp but if you want to keep some bottom end, yur gonna have to up the Scr. And yes alloy heads will make more power than your smogger heads, but again, it will require even more Scr to make it happen.
Whereas the Magnum already has the perfect Scr ratio for the retimed to straight-up factory cam, saving you the cost of ; heads, pistons, a "baby cam", etc, Which money you can now spend on getting the M installed and running, with money left for a high-stall, and maybe a downpayment on a proper rear end.
If you find a nice 5.9 for similar money, then you will have the best of both worlds, with enough torque to possibly use the stock TC.
It seems to me no matter how you slice this, something has to be un-installed. Either the trans comes down for a TC swap, or the engine comes out , or both.
Alloy heads onto the 8.0 318LA-engine with a "baby cam", and no other changes is gonna be a great-big disappointment. If you go this route do some time trials, both before and after. Else you are gonna be fooling yourself as to how much improvement you think you got.

Post 17 is right on the money; as are many others
and almost the common thread is; with those hiway gears, the stockScr LA is a sad deal; and if you buy a used Magnum, then bigger is better.
But some of us agree, that if you free up the LA teener with a TC and gears, then just bolt your stuff on and go.
and I say if you don't increase the Scr of your 318LA, then leave the factory cam in it; that is to say, if you do baby-cam it, then make sure the Ica is the same 50*or smaller.
 

kingoftooland

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True it is a budget BUT I may have a deal on a buildable la360 needs to be gone thru n I know the 360 will give a bit more punch n leave room on the table for future upgrades
 

BudW

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Compression ratio (and its relationship with camshaft), torque converter and differential gear ratios are the three biggies.

The gear ratio is one a person needs to upgrade no matter what you do – especially if you have 2.2 ratio gears currently stuffed in the rear.

A 318 (or really, almost any engine) will respond better once compression ratio is better – and is pretty much the hardest thing to change on an engine. No matter how much you spend on performance parts, a poor compression ratio will be that anchor dragging the car down. A piston change can be expensive in the overall scheme of things.

The Magnum engines already comes with better compression as well as other benefits, in stock form.
The 318’s that come in (all) FMJ’s were hit hard with emissions. Getting the engine back up to pre-emission status (late ‘60’s) helps a lot, but so does more cubic inches, better heads, and the list goes on.

Part of the reason stroker kits do such a great job is they get the compression back to where it needs to be at and extra cubic inches to boot – all within a semi-affordable (and complete) kit.

The problem with an engine overhaul (piston replacement) is money and down time.
The stock Magnum engine runs well as is and can be changed out over a weekend with the least out of pocket expense. A person just needs to get some parts gathered ahead of time and can still drive the car.

If a person can get differential gears changed out, you might find out you are happy with just that. It is something that will have to be done anyway.
BudW
 

kingoftooland

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Yea I whould be talking to the shop that did my 904 recently but the hard part is finding a bolt in m body 8 1/4 rear end the tc is no big deal that will be changed out heck I don’t even know the stock stall speed is
 

BudW

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I would not be surprised there is only one (factory) stall speed converter for the A904 series (A904/A998/A999/A500) transmission – from the factory.
The A727/A518 came with both low stall and high stall converters.

The odd thing about converters it a low stall converter (the point where engine will overpower the brakes when gas is applied – which is a more simplified explanation) behind a /6 and lightweight car will become a higher stall converter behind a big block in a heavyweight car – if the converter was exactly the same. Weight of vehicle and torque produced by engine (at stall speed) are two big factors that determine the converter stall speed.

If a person increased the available torque from engine (at the stall speed) – the stall speed will increase (or decrease if available torque also decreased).
The problem with that is many common engine performance upgrades decreases the available torque at lower RPM’s (at stall speed, in this case) and transfers the torque up higher in RPM band, which is above converters stall speed – which is counter-productive and why @AJ/FormS was recommending a higher stall converter.

For the most part (and in my opinion), Chrysler only made three different stall speed converters (A904 (low), A727 low stall and A727 high stall) – but several variations of each (lockup vs. non-lockup and various balancing versions for the different engines).

The aftermarket can better fine tune stall speed to a person’s application – but those units can get pricy and better for those into racing.
For using factory parts, there is not much option for those within the A904 family.
BudW
 

XfbodyX

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For using factory parts, there is not much option for those within the A904

Alot of trans shops can build verts and its less then 250 to have a oem 904 vert cut open, add a few good parts and jump the stall up 500 rpm over stock.

There is a high and a low oem 904 based vert.

904/998/999 vert PN-s

For instance 1977 3 904 based verts


4028044 All exe. police taxi
4028046 Taxi/Police/HD Fleet
4028048 360/999

Here would be a nice mellow street vert priced well. Not sure on the shipping.
Chrysler Dodge A904 Transmission 2000 stall Torque Converter 12-H | eBay
 
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BudW

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For instance 1977 3 904 based verts
4028044 All except police taxi
4028046 Taxi/Police/HD Fleet
4028048 360/999
Of the three different converters available in ’77, the 360 unit is balanced.
The other two converters have a neutral balance. The difference between those two is the HD unit uses needle bearings instead of bushings inside of the converter (better for long term usage but more expensive to make).

I agree with XfbodyX, the converter can be modified and 500 RPM higher stall speed (more or less) can be obtained which can do nothing but help out in your case.
For a stock 2-bbl car, I'd leave it alone though.
BudW
 

XfbodyX

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For a stock 2-bbl car, I'd leave it alone though.

Bud I think the 318 2bbl actually got the higher oem stall vert. Id have to look though.
 

Duke5A

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He just had the trans gone through and rebuilds almost always come with a brand new converter. Factory stall rating would be fairly near what it needs to be with a 5.9L and 2.94 gear.

5.9L Magnum engine with a factory cam, reuse exhaust manifolds, 2.25" duals with a balance pipe. Reuse the transmission and converter. Steal the timing cover off of your current 318 to swap over. Get an intake. Get an oil pan. Reuse the engine mounts using the washer trick on the driver's side. Reuse 500CFM carb. Weld converter weight to converter for balance.

Done!

The parts you need for the swap are not expensive at all and you can put it all together while the car is still driving.

Hell, if you find a 5.9L in Parts Galore (you will) I'll help you pull it out.
 
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Duke5A

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Did you ever find an 8.25"? @Camtron has one with a 2.94 open carrier in Chicago he said he'd let go for the price of shipping. Chicago isn't far at all. If you get it yourself maybe it'll even be free??

Could always add a limited slip to it at a later date.
 

BudW

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he said he'd let go for the price of shipping.
A person can’t beat that with a stick.

I’ve been talking to another forum member who said renting a U-Haul trailer is not that expensive and it sounds like, in his case, a road trip will be more cost effective than paying for freight.
BudW
 

Camtron

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Lol, I’m not letting go of my 8.25”, just the open carrier. I’ve never offered the axle housing to anyone. So, yea if you want an open carrier as a desk ornament or door stop, i’ll send it for the cost of shipping. Sorry for any confusion.
 
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BudW

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Open mouth and insert foot. Now I’ve cleaned my glasses, I read it is just the open carrier. My bad and sorry for confusion.

Possible uses for open carriers are: door stops, (small) dog chain holders, boat anchors and list goes on – but just not useful for automotive purposes.
BudW
 

Duke5A

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Lol, I’m not letting go of my 8.25”, just the open carrier. I’ve never offered the axle housing to anyone. So, yea if you want an open carrier as a desk ornament or door stop, i’ll send it for the cost of shipping. Sorry for any confusion.


My bad. :confused::confused:
 
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