440 In an F Article

XfbodyX

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This is a old like 92 article from Rick E.

Im missing a page but will find it and post it as well.


Just DL into your pic viewer and they are easy to read.

Ive never been impressed by Rick E so who knows whats changed since it was written.

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Oldiron440

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I didn't see a recommendation for a oil pan but a early 60s C body pan works the best. I had one on at first but some replaced with a Milodon pan for a C body.

I used Hedman 2" headers and the steering column was a bigger problem because the header comes out and down in the same spot the rag joint was located. Rag joint was replaced with a u joint.
 

kkritsilas

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Interesting that the title says getting a 440 into an F, and the picture shows a J. Not that there is that much different, but you would figure that a Mopar oriented magazine (and an author who is supposed to be a Mopar expert) would have gotten it right.
 

XfbodyX

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I think the title was done like that because back them F-s still had a semi popular following, much more then now days and the M@J cars were way less talked about. So to me if the cover said 440 in a F then id be more apt to look vs if it said m or J.

But thats just my thinking.
 

modelmakerinc

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There is a big difference in F to J bodies installing a 440, power brakes are not an option with a 440 in a F body. The J body is a bit wider and puts the valve cover far enough away, with a B block in my Volare there is not enough clearance for a RB even with a small brake booster. 440 in a F. Manual brakes only.
 
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XfbodyX

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power brakes are not an option with a 440 in a F body

Thats crazy talk buddy, the 2 I did had power with zero issues using a non F booster and if youd explore this site you will find several more.

A 440 in a F with power brakes is a no brainer. Id think more then most youd think out of the box. Not a good pic but notice how the edge of the booster fits behind the VC.

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modelmakerinc

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Ok, you proved me wrong, but the valve cover in my car with 383 barely squeezes by the booster, there is no way to service the valve train with RB and power brakes.

Or am I wrong about that too? Or if I go to a stamped original style valve cover would help.

But the B -Block doesn't give me header fitment issues with the steering.
 
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XfbodyX

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I didnt know I had header fitment issues with the steering until now.

No need to get testy H, your a master craftsman with the work on your cars. We all know from the tight BB and hemi mopars in small cars/tight places to the jacked up modern stuff where its a day to change the hard to get to spark plugs, or to get to a simple filter that not all is easy but nearly everything is possible one way or another.
 

modelmakerinc

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Not testy at all, I assumed which is my mistake, I appreciate the clarification.

Thank you for the compliment also.

Looking at my engine bay, a raised block will cause me multiple issues.
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Oldiron440

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My coment on headers is from 1988 using Ebody headers, at the time there were no swap headers for the Fbody. There may be something that fits now.
 

kkritsilas

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Not arguing, just asking as I have hopes of one day putting a big block into one of my J bodies.

Aren't the engine compartments pretty much the same for all Fs, Ms, and Js? I know the K members interchange, so they should be fairly close. From what I know (and compared to some here, its not a lot), the major difference on the J is that it is on the F/M 4 body chassis (112" wheelbase vs. 2 door F/M 108" wheelbase). I have never heard of anything about engine compartment sizes varying between the J's, F's. or M's. If I am displaying ignorance, please correct me.
 
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modelmakerinc

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I would only venture to guess the Mirada/Cordoba M bodies are wider than the F but I'm surely no expert or have first hand info.
 

BudW

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The distance between frame rails and inner fender panels are the same on all FMJ's. The distance from engine to firewall and distance of firewall to core support is the same. The only thing I can think of that would any different between the FMJ bodies (related to the powertrain) might be the distance from engine to hood – and that difference (if any) would be only by a minimal amount.

The only difference on the overall structure of all FMJ’s (other than the outer sheetmetal and other minor details) is some J’s (not all) have a different design transmission crossmember.
Also, all J’s do not use bumper shocks and the heavy bumpers that F and M’s use.
That is why FMJ vehicles are all lumped together is because of the common chassis, powertrain and suspension (and so forth).


If a person currently has any of the three bodies (F, M or J), you can keep engine (with or without transmission) attached to the K-frame (note: exhaust manifolds/headers remain attached to engine but exhaust will need to be detached behind that), detach hoses wiring and so forth, remove the upper control arm brackets from K-frame and drop the K-frame/engine down (or raise body up) and then roll that powertrain/K-frame assembly underneath another FMJ body and attach it - without any difficulty. This doesn’t matter if /6, small block, big block, Hemi (Gen 1, 2 or 3). If you got it to fit in one FMJ, the it will also fit into any other FMJ.

Some things that might need to be swapped out is: throttle cables, brake booster or possibly some core/radiator support (depending if it has the wide or narrow radiator option).

Installing the engine for first time is the more difficult part. Moving an existing engine into another FMJ should be about a day’s job.
BudW
 

Aspen500

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My 2 cents worth is, with an RB and cast valve covers, a small booster would fit (just) in theory but getting the cover off could be a problem. With A/C you have to discharge the system and unhook the evaporator lines to get the right cover off.
The Schumacher headers fit like a champ with zero issues. Left goes in from underneath with the steering shaft disconnected, right side drops in from above. Not as ideal maybe as long tube headers but on the street, I doubt you could notice a difference. My car has no issues with a rag joint since it never had one as long as I've owned the car (32+ years). What the shaft is from, I have no idea and until being on this forum, I never knew all FMJ's had a rag joint.

For those who think I never drive the car, proof is stuck in the condensor in the form of bugs, so there:p
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rokitz boi

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Just saw this thread.
I want to put a 593 ci all aluminum Gen. 2 hemi (900+ hp) into a 77 Volare RR clone. I'd use a 727 at with OD and a narrowed 9-3/4 Dana with 4.10 gears. Tub the rear for some really fat tires. I also think I will replace the front suspension and k-member with a Magnum Force unit.
Think it will fit?
I'm not a novice. Long ago :( I put a 426 hemi (700 hp) into a 70 Duster. I just had to cut a small notch in the shock towers to make it fit. I used "Elephant Ears" from Sox & Martin rather than k-member motor mounts.
Thanks for advice!
 

Aspen500

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Of course it'll fit! With enough work a person can't put anything into anything.:cool:
Actually, I think a Hemi will fit an F-body easier than an A-body. Don't quote me on that however.
 
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