7.25 to 8.25 in a J

Bruceynz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
200
Location
South Island New Zealand
Hi Guys,

Ok I am getting closer to doing this swap so I can give my 360 a bit of angry without the fear of the 7.25" diff exploding its guts out all over the road!

So I will need to get my driveshaft altered, is it as simple as looking at this here

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/2/21/Mopar_rear_axle_dimensions.jpg

and getting my drive shaft shortened by 1.6 inches? (11.69" - 10.09")

Thanks
Bruce
 

80mirada

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
1,575
Reaction score
627
Location
Wisconsin, Fort Atkinson
It is almost that simple. The best way to calculate drive shaft length is to get the new rear installed and setting on its wheels. Then install your slip yoke and measure the center to center for the u-joints. If my memory isn't to foggy, the slip yoke is suppose to have about half an inch exposed behind the trans seals boot, but I will look that up.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
In theory, you are correct.

Sense the differential is on different centerline (left to right) than engine/transmission is (they are not straight on) and a different centerline (top to bottom) the two angles need to be factored in.

The best recommendation I would give is to find someone with same differential and transmission combination, and have them measure their existing shaft.
That said, I would cut driveshaft down 1.6 inches (40.64mm), if it was mine


Are you staying with the 904/98/999 style of transmission? If so, no worries.
If going to a 727 transmission, the driveshaft will need to be shorter.

BudW
 

80mirada

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
1,575
Reaction score
627
Location
Wisconsin, Fort Atkinson
An old Hollander would list drive shaft lengths that were available. 904 with an 8.25 was common. I will see if I can get to the local libraries collection. Probably some time this evening.
 

Bruceynz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
200
Location
South Island New Zealand
Hi Bud,

So staying with the 904 just lop 1.6" off it and that should see it pretty much on the money. Only one other J body I know of in NZ so comparing is not an option down under, anyone on the forum got a J with an 8.25" who can tell me how long their shaft is?

Going to stick to the 904(A998), from what I can gather the 904 will be ok for the HP I am making from my 360, when it pops its clogs I will get a stronger rebuild.

Bud I need some advice, what do I need to do to strengthen my 998 to be strong enough to handle daily driving (not racing) with a mild 360 in front of it? (I dunno how mild it is, it idles with a little lope, is standard low comp engine with open cast heads) Maybe mid to high 200HP mark at a guess.

Thanks
Bruce

if you could take photos of where they measure from them I can tell the guy at the shop what I want it hacked down to, Chrysler must of had certian lengths, surely they were not all hand made to length
In theory, you are correct.

Sense the differential is on different centerline (left to right) than engine/transmission is (they are not straight on) and a different centerline (top to bottom) the two angles need to be factored in.

The best recommendation I would give is to find someone with same differential and transmission combination, and have them measure their existing shaft.
That said, I would cut driveshaft down 1.6 inches (40.64mm), if it was mine


Are you staying with the 904/98/999 style of transmission? If so, no worries.
If going to a 727 transmission, the driveshaft will need to be shorter.

BudW
 

Bruceynz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2015
Messages
1,802
Reaction score
200
Location
South Island New Zealand
The 8.25" rear end I have came out of a 1976 Plymouth Volare Road Runner, so it should all bolt up together.
 
Last edited:

Joe12459

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
961
Reaction score
175
Location
Catskill Mountains, NY
The length should be 52.5" center to center of u-joint. I just had one made for my son's CMX, /6 904 with 8.25 rear. I'm not sure how he ended up with the 8.25 rear and a /6, but that was the right driveshaft length.
 

80mirada

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
1,575
Reaction score
627
Location
Wisconsin, Fort Atkinson
Local library sold their damn Hollander interchange books. So I had a buddy measure a couple of shafts he had and both are 52.5" center to center.
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
All Mopar cars made from roughly ’78 and up came with the “7260” joint.

All 8¼” FMJ differentials are the same, except for gear ratio (which can be changed).
Some came with 11” drum brakes and some came with limited slip

They did put a few 727’s in J bodies, but not very many. They did put 8¼”s in J bodies, but not very many.

The 904 family transmission can take a lot of horsepower, more than you are applying. Some prefer it sense it is lighter than a 727 and 1st gear is a better gear ratio.

Measurements of shaft are Center of Universal Joint (or U-Joint in short) to Center of U-Joint on the other side, sometimes referred to center eye to center eye or C.E. to C.E. Tube diameter can make a difference as well as U-joint size (in your case a “7260” which is standard (only option) for your car.

Transmission slip yoke diameter is larger for 727/833 as well (again, not a factor here).

Note: Chrysler calls the shaft from transmission to differential a “propeller shaft” and they call a driveshaft, what many of us call axle shafts. If you were to walk into a dealership and ask for a driveshaft – you will not get what you are expecting

There are lists of shaft lengths out there, but I hadn’t seen a list online for ’75 and up cars – except for an interchange company by the name of Hollander, which sells (massive size and expensive) books and software that will tell you just about anything you want to know.

I have a well-used book for vehicles made from 1964-74. Later year books are three times as thick, then it became available in digital format only.
20160531_233335.jpg



In this case, I would measure your existing propeller shaft and I expect it to be about 1.6 inches longer than 52.5 inches. If so, then get yours cut down to 52.5 inches (or 1.6 inches shorter) and you should be where you want to be at.

When shaft is back, insert it into transmission as far as it will go (frontward), and you should have about one full inch before it seats into the rear yoke.

BudW
 
Back
Top