79 R/T. 360 to replace 318...

NoCar340

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The bands will be the tricky part to get for the transmission, and it's not that tricky. Order race bands (they're 100% streetable and a smaller copy of what came in factory HD transmissions during the heyday). A good transmission shop should be able to get the Alto clutches, and probably the bands too. Ask if they can, and insist on the good stuff, not their normal "I've had good luck with..." stuff. If they can't get it, there are plenty of places it can be sourced for you to provide it to them.
There is not a good selection of pre-balanced converters (do not buy a B&M converter!) so I highly suggest the B&M flexplate. It's a high-quality, SFI rated piece. It opens your converter choices considerably, plus if you decide you want a different stall you'll have a much easier time selling a neutral-balance unit. When you have the reciprocating assembly balanced (notice I didn't say "if"--for the little it costs it's well worth it!) send your harmonic dampener and your flexplate along for the ride so they can balance the whole assembly.
Rock Auto and everyone else are selling the same mounts, and going by the incorrect catalog information supplied to them. The mounts are one piece, and bolt to the engine on one end and the K-member on the other. I've seen 'em shimmed as 80mirada pointed out. That method wasn't good enough for the factory so I don't do it personally. Others have done it for years. Your call.
You can CC the heads yourself if you get a glass plate with a hole in it and a graduated burette. I don't have the book, but I'm guessing that's the method they use. It's very easy, and burettes are downright cheap these days, stand and all. You're not mixing rocket fuel so lab-grade stuff is overkill.
I've been hot rodding engines since the day I bought my first car, but within a few years I learned to leave camshaft specs to the pros. I haven't picked my own camshaft in almost 20 years. My 29 years of experience is no match for their expertise! :cool:
 

80mirada

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I personally prefer the 360/340 mount, but they are getting impossible to find in a non-Schumacher mount. If Nocar340 or anyone else has a part number, please share it, I haven't had luck finding one that was an actual 340/360 mount. The last two I bought were a different number than a 318 but were still 318 mounts.


Hughes and TCI both have made good 904 convertors ( lockup and non). Mancini had Mopar ones, and Aand A and SMR list a nice variety. ACC might make one, but not sure. I would also recommend the piston spring upgrade for the front drum .
 

kimrpaige

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80 Mirada,
I do not have a 904 lock up converter. I have the original 904 that came with my 1977 Aspen. Are you saying I can put a lock up stall converter in it. I am thinking the lock up was controlled electrically with a speed sensor. Sorry, not that versed in auto trannys. Kim
 

NoCar340

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The lockup converter is hydraulically actuated in the 3-speed automatics. You can neither put a lockup converter in a non-lockup transmission, nor can you do the opposite. Just to make sure that no one made the mistake, the lockup converters have a different spline.

Factory lockup converters, for the record, have a notoriously weak lockup clutch. Guys that want to maintain their lockup feature should invest in a good aftermarket converter. The stocker will break.
 

kimrpaige

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Thanks Nocar, I understand. I just remember having a 88 Chevy Caprice years ago and it had a shudder that went away when you engaged the brake light switch, which had a solenoid in the tranny to engage the lock-up. That is why i was thinking the lock-up converters were electronic. Thanks for all the info, I have learned a lot and still have a lot to learn especially with the trannys.
 

kimrpaige

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Thanks. so much, will be looking. I am in Daytona this weekend, will check out the vendors at the Turkey Rod Run also
 

dodger roger

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So you need a 360 harmonic balancer. (External balance) ATI makes a nice product.
Id run a neutral balanced (internal balance) torque converter with an offset weighted B&M flexplate.
The converters arent interchangable between 904 and 727.
For your application Id run a non lockup 904/999 with the low first gear. That will help with off the line acceleration, over the 727. Plus you can keep your driveshaft and yoke. The yokes are different between the 904 and 727.
 

AJ/FormS

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IMO, you need to decide when and where you want the torque to be, select the cam, build the engine around that, and then stall and gear the chassis to make it happen.Then fix your traction issues.
I have done it your way, and occasionally it works out.
 
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