8.25 for j body or 8.75 out of 66-70 b-body

[Doc_Strange]

Obviously I need some sure grip in my life.

Looking for someone close enough to the Chicagoland area to meet up with.

For those of you that don't know, I don't remember the exact years but the B-Body charger/coronet/etc through 65~-70~ 8.75 rear ends actually bolt up like it was made for a j body.

Obviously some drive shaft shortening would occur, however I'm unaware if the length of the same year B-Body drive shafts would work.

Someone I know did it without any readjustment to his drive shaft however.


Don't bother coming at me about it if you think either of the two are solid gold. If it's in useable shape, I'll pay a good amount but if I have to take it and get the whole thing reworked or it's not complete I'm not paying you much, but I'll still buy.

sure grip not required, I plan to replace the gears.

 

[NoCar340]

Yeah, it's pretty close to a bolt-in. However, you'll need new rear shocks (for a '66-72 B/E application) and shock plates to do it right and get rid of the goofy iso-clamp setup. If you want to keep that, you can get iso-clamp pilot adapters to get the large pilot of your iso-clamp bits to fit the small pilot of the B-body axle shaft. My two cents? Lose the iso clamps entirely. They suck.

The '65-'67 axle is narrower than the '68-'70. This is a mixed blessing; if you plan on staying with stock-offset wheels in the factory-max 8" size (Super Coupe/Magnum GT wheels), the '68-'70 puts the wheels a little closer to the wheel lip, giving a more factory lip. If you want more "dish" or offset to the outside, then the '65-'67 axle is the one to have. Both axles are actually narrower than the original FMJ unit.

If you already have an 8.25" axle, chances are your propshaft will fit with no problems. That's been my experience, but I've never seen anyone bottom out one of the cars I helped swap either. You'd have to go "Duke boys" to do it, really, and even then only possibly damage the transmission. If you've got the 7.25" axle, you absolutely have to shorten the propshaft.

 

[NoCar340]

BTW, if you get an axle with shafts but no dropout, let me know. I have six pigs here, from bare cases to complete Sure Grips, in every casting configuration.

 

[Doc_Strange]

Wow, thanks. All that actually really helps. Currently I have an air shock setup for the rear because my leaf springs flex in the wrong direction LOL. There is only one place around here that does re-arching and I don't like what I've seen out of their ship so I'm going to keep going with the air ride idea I had a long time ago.

Now all I need to do is find someone who doesn't think they own diamonds made of rusty axle.

If I can find an axle with no dropout though I'll definitely be coming to you. So far I've found only guys with complete 68-70 axles that are pretty much junk and they still think it's worth close to $1000. Some people are out of their mind but I also found one complete working with 2.xx limited from a 68 charger, drum to drum, for $100 on craigslist. Someone got to it first though.

 

[NoCar340]

Where are you located? I know of several such axles locally that are not priced anywhere near the moon. The last one I bought (3.23 open out of a '71 Sport Fury) was $75, drum-to-drum. B-bodies bring more, but it's still not out of hand. $200, maybe?

 

[Doc_Strange]

$200 drum to drum is around what'd I'd call reasonable. I'm outside of Chicago Illinois, in Joliet.

 

[NoCar340]

Damn, I'm going to be at Route 66 Raceway for the NHRA Nationals late in June but have no way to get one there, assuming I could get one pulled in time. I don't think my buddy would appreciate it in the motorhome.

 

[Doc_Strange]

Oh man, Wrap it in plastic and a box or something! I need it bad, and parts around here, like I said, they're like buying diamonds.