mopops
Well-Known Member
well thanks for all the help i am going to make an attempt at this job n find a way to bugger it tks ill let u know how i make out
82 mirada heater blend switch
- Thread starter mopops
- Start date
The actuator (being held) resides in the pink circle. The Radio attachment ear is shown by yellow arrow. Between the yellow arrow and pink circle, there is a triangle/pyramid shaped a/c duct that needs pulled out (only held in by friction) and a piece of insulation (for noise).
Almost all the SATC actuators I come across are “stuck” in one position, usually mid-position. You need the door fully in one direction for A/C (no hot air, which is counterproductive to A/C) and the other direction (or mid-position) for heater operation.
All FMJ’s with A/C, the heater core is always “hot”, except for when Max-A/C is on (or off). You regulate the temperature via the temperature door (blend-air door) via cable or SATC servo. I prefer the heater core to only open when I want it to be (ie, when its cold out). The hot water valve (under-hood) allows hot coolant access through the heater core full time (again, except when Max-A/C is on, or system is off).
If you can get a servo taken apart (not easy to do) – it is harder to get it set to position without a lot of trial and error.
I had run out of time to download pictures, on Friday.
The air door (inside of the evaporator case) is the same for SATC or normal A/C. The round rod is threaded and has a “D” shape to it at the top. There is a place for a “quick connect” for the cable on the evaporator case (and a similar one on A/C control head).
A picture of evaporator case/cable connection. The “Blend-Air Door Crank” is a simple piece of metal about 2 inches long (my guess). The side with nut is “D” shaped with a shoulder and is threaded (1/4” thread). Drilling out a “D” shaped hole would be the only hard part. This same part is used on all non-SATC FMJ’s, and practically all Chrysler cars/trucks made in ’70-80’s. Finding the lever is not too hard to do.
The “self-adjusting clip” usually comes with the cable.
93 Dodge Ram a/c heater control cable OEM Cummins 1st Gen. Mopar W250 80-93 | eBay
This cable will work – but will be longer than you need. There should be used cables available from our other members here, as well. I have seen red, white and yellow clips – so don’t worry about the clip color. 40-year-old clips are not that strong so use some patience. If a clip breaks, you can use a screw or a zip-tie to hold cable in place.
This one is for a Van but might work.
The early F-body cable used the same attaching clip on control head but used a screw-on flat-pad on the part that attaches to the evaporator case. That cable will work as well, but just need to get creative on how to attach it to evaporator.
The control head:
The lever the cable attaches to is a bit different. The SATC head lever doesn't have a tab for cable to go into.
The lever is not hard to find and to change. I would find an non-SATC control head and use it or transfer the lever over.
The SATC control heads have numbers on it (just below the lever):
The head on my Fifth Ave had a silver face-plate, so I reused it, after changing the lever.
BudW
mopops
Well-Known Member
first off thank you for the detailed info n pics a big help ,do u have to remove the dash pad -like in your pics? if so how does that come off? can you cut into the heater housing to get at the door? do you have a non working unit you would sell me? this back of mine is making these jobs a night mare thanks again
I have two evaporator cases in my garage. One from an ‘80 F-body (non-SATC) and the other ’84 Gran Fury (SATC). The cases could interchange except for the two hoses for the aspirator and the evaporator temp sensor.
The aspirator is the red circle which screws onto the case. There are two hoses for aspirator. One goes into the case (white circle) and other hose connects to dash panel just under the glove box. The Evaporator temp sensor also screws into case (also in white circle). The temp sensor can be left in place or just tape over the hole. The same for the aspirator hose hole. Just pull the hose and tape over the hole. Other than that, there is no other differences between the evaporator cases, internal doors or other components attaching to the evaporator cases. Even the blend air door (the one the servo moves) is the same. The only thing missing is the short metal lever that has a ¼” nut that holds it on.
I have both evap cases wrapped up with shipping stretch wrap to keep bugs and critters out and stuck in attic. I could get one down for pictures, but it will take a bit to do so. The ’80 Case is destined to go into my wagon when I convert it to A/C.
You do have to remove the dash pad/top plate and glove box, though. The dash pad has four black 3/16” head screws up by the windshield. I do recommend using a magnetic bit to remove those for it can be a pain if a screw falls down a defroster vent. There is a couple of screws that goes straight up inside of the glove box (using a stubby Phillips driver helps), a couple of 3/16” screws on drivers side of dash and three (I think) 3/8” speed nuts (or 3/16” screws) by the instrument cluster bezel, going up. There are also speed nuts that hold the dash pad to the top plate – which can be confusing. The ones you want to remove are between the black plastic cluster bracket to top. The bezel does not need to come off – if I recall correctly, for the dash pad/top but it does need to be removed to get glove box removed. The top will pull back then can be moved out of the way.
I do recommend using Ziplock bags to put screws into and mark them. A bag for top, a bag for glove box and another bag for A/C parts.
The glove box is a fairly large item but not hard. You can leave the contents of glove box in place (if wanted). The three screws at top – I recommend leaving for last. There is a 7/16” bolt that is just behind the passenger side kick panel. It screws towards the door. That bolt needs to be loosened but not removed. Mid-way under dash, there is a 3/8” “tall” nut that needs removed. This nut goes straight up, under dash. The rest of the screws should be self-explanatory. You may have to disconnect some electrical wires – depending on options on vehicle. I recommend taking pictures of those wire connector locations before disconnecting them (if possible). That chunk of the dash can now be removed, and dash should look something like it does in the above picture.
BudW
The aspirator is the red circle which screws onto the case. There are two hoses for aspirator. One goes into the case (white circle) and other hose connects to dash panel just under the glove box. The Evaporator temp sensor also screws into case (also in white circle). The temp sensor can be left in place or just tape over the hole. The same for the aspirator hose hole. Just pull the hose and tape over the hole. Other than that, there is no other differences between the evaporator cases, internal doors or other components attaching to the evaporator cases. Even the blend air door (the one the servo moves) is the same. The only thing missing is the short metal lever that has a ¼” nut that holds it on.
I have both evap cases wrapped up with shipping stretch wrap to keep bugs and critters out and stuck in attic. I could get one down for pictures, but it will take a bit to do so. The ’80 Case is destined to go into my wagon when I convert it to A/C.
You do have to remove the dash pad/top plate and glove box, though. The dash pad has four black 3/16” head screws up by the windshield. I do recommend using a magnetic bit to remove those for it can be a pain if a screw falls down a defroster vent. There is a couple of screws that goes straight up inside of the glove box (using a stubby Phillips driver helps), a couple of 3/16” screws on drivers side of dash and three (I think) 3/8” speed nuts (or 3/16” screws) by the instrument cluster bezel, going up. There are also speed nuts that hold the dash pad to the top plate – which can be confusing. The ones you want to remove are between the black plastic cluster bracket to top. The bezel does not need to come off – if I recall correctly, for the dash pad/top but it does need to be removed to get glove box removed. The top will pull back then can be moved out of the way.
I do recommend using Ziplock bags to put screws into and mark them. A bag for top, a bag for glove box and another bag for A/C parts.
The glove box is a fairly large item but not hard. You can leave the contents of glove box in place (if wanted). The three screws at top – I recommend leaving for last. There is a 7/16” bolt that is just behind the passenger side kick panel. It screws towards the door. That bolt needs to be loosened but not removed. Mid-way under dash, there is a 3/8” “tall” nut that needs removed. This nut goes straight up, under dash. The rest of the screws should be self-explanatory. You may have to disconnect some electrical wires – depending on options on vehicle. I recommend taking pictures of those wire connector locations before disconnecting them (if possible). That chunk of the dash can now be removed, and dash should look something like it does in the above picture.
BudW
mopops
Well-Known Member
ok i was interested in a satc motor to play with ,,i dont think i can tackle this job---so can u tell me if i can cut into the heater box to get at the blend door ( attach a wire,rod ,something) to be able to move it? if i start this job it will take me weeks to get it done -too long ,too painful , so i am looking for a way to get around this problem in a way i can do it. i am guessing you have a good knowledge of the heater box lay out and may know where to cut ,if possible? thanks george glover
mopops
Well-Known Member
if i removed the blower motor n fan assembly do u think i could reach in and get at the blend door?
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Perhaps a FFMJ member can help you, there are people in upstate NY on this site.
I see you’re by Newburg, Start a new thread “Need assistance in NY”
Perhaps offer pizza and beer in exchange for help.
I see you’re by Newburg, Start a new thread “Need assistance in NY”
Perhaps offer pizza and beer in exchange for help.
mopops
Well-Known Member
sounds good n thank you for all the help
Let me see if I can get some better pictures of the real thing.
For a temporary fix, and once the SATC servo motor is out, you can get a small pair of vice grips which will hold the door one side or the other.
I had to doctor my picture a little bit to get it to work correctly. The blend air door shaft (blue arrow) should stick up above the case about 1 inch. If you rotate the blend air door in the direction indicated and then lock the vice grips so door will be held in that direction – will work for a temporary fix. Just don’t clamp onto the threaded part of the rod.
There is a chance I might have my directions reversed (possibility), but once engine is warm/hot, you will know quickly if it is correct direction.
The vice grips will attach where the light blue arrow is at. Your car will not have the arm in place.
BudW
For a temporary fix, and once the SATC servo motor is out, you can get a small pair of vice grips which will hold the door one side or the other.
I had to doctor my picture a little bit to get it to work correctly. The blend air door shaft (blue arrow) should stick up above the case about 1 inch. If you rotate the blend air door in the direction indicated and then lock the vice grips so door will be held in that direction – will work for a temporary fix. Just don’t clamp onto the threaded part of the rod.
There is a chance I might have my directions reversed (possibility), but once engine is warm/hot, you will know quickly if it is correct direction.
The vice grips will attach where the light blue arrow is at. Your car will not have the arm in place.
BudW
mopops
Well-Known Member
ok thanks getting the satc out is the big issue for me i am gonna take out the blower n see if in can reach the door to move it then ill try to find someone close by who can help me beer pizza n cash should help hope someone see s this thanks for the help
mopops
Well-Known Member
well not to flog an old horse -but i got the satc out by taking the radio out an a big wad of insulation n thats it easy once i found it -now to get a way to move it, on n off thanks to all u guys who helped me,, your a great bunch--well mopar guys always were enjoy the holidays n thanks again
mopops
Well-Known Member
ok i remover radio pulled big wad o insulation out took one screw off motor n removed it took all of 15 minutes, dont know why i was told so much other stuff needed to be removed?
