A Couple Transmission Questions

AJ/FormS

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Try to get a definitive answer from them as to what the problem was. I for one, would sure like to know.
While it's out, have the guys look over the oil-pump drive-lugs on the TC. On 904s these have a habit of cracking,in the corners. I'd hate to see you have to pull it down a year from now, or a week from now, cuz the oil is pouring out the front.
Also highly recommended is a new sprag kit.
 
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Intrepolicious

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I've got a new (well, reman) TC along with everything else. I'm assuming it has new drive lugs? Good news is the rebuild trans has a 2 year/24 mo warranty.
 

Intrepolicious

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I didn't have much time today while I was there (running late for work) but I'll definitely be asking what the major cause of failure was.
 

MiradaMegacab

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Screenshot_20170303-061122.png
 

BudW

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It is rare for a transmission shop, not to replace the torque converter with a reman/rebuilt unit.
The main reason is many torque converters are hard to clean out and they want to make sure all source of contamination (ie: metal shavings) are not present. After all, they are standing behind it for 24/24.

Now many home rebuilds – that is a different issue.

If you have money, I would recommend using parts from the A500 (if you have an A904/998/999 transmission) or an A518 (if you have a 727 transmission) and use the flat design converter hub/pump gears than the slot design (if planning on using lock-up converter and planning on a home rebuild, that is).
BudW
 

Intrepolicious

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Got the car back yesterday. Yesterday morning actually, had to take it back for a slight band adjustment because the 2nd to 3rd shift points were off a little. Now it's perfect.

I now have a rebuilt TorqueFlite 904 with a 2 year/24k mile warranty!

New/reman torque converter, pump, reverse/low band, kickdown flex (high?)band, clutch packs, valve body seals, new filter and fluid.

What happened: The main thing that led to this transmission's demise, was the fact that this car had a towing package on it. It still has the Class III/IV hitch on it. (Which I SHOULD have taken as a sign before I bought it.. but the car was so nice, I pretended that I didn't see the hitch lol) The original owner used to tow a huge boat or travel home with it.

So after the car sat for some time, barely driven, then I get it and start driving it daily for the first week, it busted the reverse band (that was the loud bang I heard putting it in reverse the morning of the day it died) plus, the pump seals were shot, and the over run clutch packs from all the towing etc etc.

Another thing was the teeth on the flywheel were badly worn from all the years of starting, and there was a big crack on the edge of the flywheel itself.
(I meant to get a picture of that but forgot - also meant to take a pic of the new torque converter because it was a pretty blue!)

And, the car needed a new starter... but get this, not because the original, 1980 starter motor itself went out, but the housing and mounting assembly (the two long bolts) of the starter needed replacing. I think that says a lot about the quality of the original 1980 starter motor.

Anyway, all good now! Shifting nice and smoooth...
 

BudW

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Good to hear!

BTW, I would highly recommend replacing the starter with the mini design, which came out in ’87 or ’88 (I think).

The same cost, much smaller, much lighter and spins engine over faster – so easier starting.
BudW
 

Intrepolicious

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Good to hear!

BTW, I would highly recommend replacing the starter with the mini design, which came out in ’87 or ’88 (I think).

The same cost, much smaller, much lighter and spins engine over faster – so easier starting.
BudW
Got one! Yeah I don't even think they make the original size ones anymore... (well, maybe through the dealer you could get one I suppose)
 

BudW

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Go to your local parts store and ask for a starter for a '90 pickup 318, but don't bring your core.
bring core back in same box later. it will fit in same box.

The mini starter looks much different but fits and works much better.
After '87 (or '88), it is the only choice from Chrysler.
 

Intrepolicious

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Well, guess I'll start a new thread, but now all of a sudden the car won't start... fuel pump? It cranks and cranks.. i installed brand new spark plugs a week ago and it's been running great. This morning though, the only thing I did different was disconnect the breather to let the carb "get some air"
 

MiradaMegacab

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Tip of the day, never hit reverse while in hi idle.... the hi line pressure will eventually take out the band or worse yet, the dog bone linkage. I ejected the dogbone linkage and windowed a 727. I still had all Fwd gears cause I run a Rev Manual Valve Body....
images.jpg
 

iScamp

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I've decided to just bite the bullet and have it towed up to this trans specialty place here in town and have it professionally done. Anything else that could happen to this car I could fix myself. The 318? I could rebuild the whole damn engine right here at home, but the transmission no.. rebuilding or even diagnosing an automatic trans is beyond my technical skills.

Hey, you said you were very mechanically inclined. Don't be afraid of that tranny. I realize you already have it repaired and that is fine. But, in case you get in the position where you need to teardown and overhaul a Torqueflite... do it.
You will need:
A clean, I mean clean, workbench.
A good sense of organization, digital camera helps.
A good tech. manual. Charles Munroe has a very good one. Online purchase $15.
Then have at it. Automatic transmission are modular in design and easy to work on. Plus, any questions can be answered on these forums.
 

BudW

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iScamp, I do agree with you, except for two (possible) exceptions.

If you hadn’t been in one before, the first time might be too intimidating for some people.
If you have someone with experience there beside you, then no biggie.

Second, You are your own warranty station.
If someone else does it, then they will take care of any mistakes.

I won’t pay someone to do a transmission for me. Then again, I’m an ASE certified Master Technician, Master HD Truck Technician and Master Machinist, along with a lot of certifications from Chrysler.
BudW
 

Intrepolicious

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Hey, you said you were very mechanically inclined. Don't be afraid of that tranny. I realize you already have it repaired and that is fine. But, in case you get in the position where you need to teardown and overhaul a Torqueflite... do it.
You will need:
A clean, I mean clean, workbench.
A good sense of organization, digital camera helps.
A good tech. manual. Charles Munroe has a very good one. Online purchase $15.
Then have at it. Automatic transmission are modular in design and easy to work on. Plus, any questions can be answered on these forums.
Yeah, I've done pretty much everything BUT rebuild a transmission. I wouldn't be scared to take a crack at one that wasn't going to be my daily driver. Everything else on this car I can do for the most part.

Yes! I would definitely like to find the service manual. Got a link to that?
 

BudW

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There are some older books on the market that are cheap and do a great job. I would have to do research to find some book names (and I’m feeling lazy right now).

Getting a FSM (Factory Service Manual) is a must.

Automatic Transmissions are very picky about dust and dirt, more so than maybe anything else on the car. Even the lint from paper towels can/will give issues.

Working off of a clean work bench is a must!

What I do is I set out either two work benches or two folding tables (if doing this at home). I then place clean/fresh cardboard on top (it protects tables and parts also helps absorb fluid). Have extra cardboard close by (I like to change it out after disassembly of transmission and after cleaning of parts.

You will also need a place to clean parts (but not close to where you are working from).

Most internal parts generally don’t need much for cleaning, for the most part – unless you really cooked it.

Get a big bundle of shop rags. They are fairly cheap, and don’t attempt to wash them afterwards (or your better half will have your head out for public display in your yard). Paper leaves lint which is a transmissions enemy #1.

It might help to take your pages and photocopy them then place in clear page protectors – so you don’t have to worry about getting them oily.

Special tools that you may or might not have (not a complete list).
A camera, a slide hammer (for removing front pump). A cheap impact Phillips screwdriver (for the two small screws under transmission mount). A steering column lock plate tool and all-thread (to make a small press for clutch packs), several snap ring plyers, feeler gauge, A small tub to put ATF in to soak your transmission clutches (maybe others, that I can’t recall off of the top of my head).

Note: transmission clutch disks are made of paper (yes, paper) and they MUST soak in ATF a while before installation or you WILL have clutch failure very quick. I recommend soaking them overnight as well as soak your bands).

When taking the unit apart, place the parts on your other table, in order you remove them. Numbering the parts (on cardboard) might not be a bad idea.

In most cases, the bushings and thrust washers may show wear, but for most people, your old bushings and thrust washers should be within specifications.

If bushings are loose, then changing the bushings can be fun – but is doable at home.

If you leave for the night, be sure to cover your parts. Getting a cheap twin bed sheet set (at a dollar store) and wash it first, works great.
The bed sheet and cardboard are meant to be disposed of after overhaul.


Cleaning/rebuilding the valve body is maybe the hardest part.
It not hard to do, but there are so many little parts like valves, springs and ball bearings (check valves) that can scatter or get mixed up and the such. Just take your time, lay out things in order of removal, take lots and lots (and lots) of pictures. Take your time. Make sure each valve moves freely in each bore. And lastly, take your time.

The valve body IS a hydraulic computer.

Personally, if transmission was shifting fine, before it started to slip (or make noise, etc.) I would recommend to just leave the valve body alone.

There are about 200+ moving parts inside of the valve body, and most of the parts, springs, check valves, etc. all look the same (but not quite). It is very easy to lose a spring or get other items mixed up. There is no good diagram on which spring goes where, what direction valve 73 goes in and so forth.

Lastly, don't wear good clothes.
BudW
 

BudW

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I would definitely like to find the service manual.
80 Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Chassis Body Electrical Service Manual USED 1980 | eBay
A bit more than I would want to spend – but will work

1980 Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Chassis Body Electrical Service Manual OEM 80 | eBay
A better price.

1980 Chrysler Plymouth and Dodge CD Repair Shop Manual 80 Car Service | eBay
I would like to get this (but I don’t need it). Works great if you have a computer. Not so great, if you don’t.
BudW
 

Intrepolicious

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When I had my LH (Intrepid ES) I bought the full factory service manual. I still have it as a matter of fact. 6-7 books totaling about a foot tall. I paid $70 for the complete set with all the supplemental volumes.
Ahhh Mitchel on Demand! I just remembered I have this in disk.. I've got to go dig it out and see if it goes back this far. But it covered all domestic makes/models
 

BudW

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At work, I have access to Mitchell 1 ProDemand, Alldata, Chilton’s and Motors – but work frowns on using them for personal usage.

That said, I spend most of my time in our forums during work hours and they don’t have a problem with that.
Maybe I should stop talking, in case someone reads this . . .

I have a FSM on pretty much every car I’ve owned. After I total (or sell) the car and for some reason, I’ve kept the manuals. The newer cars do have a set of books to get, for each.

In my garage, I have book cases measuring roughly 7 foot tall and 6 foot wide – and about 2/3rds of it are FSM or other car reference manuals (Mopar Performance books, Part manuals and so forth).

The other 1/3rd is wood working books (I have the tools, the wood, the books and plans – all I need is time to actually get back into it . . .)
BudW
 

AJ/FormS

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Woodworking?!
I did that for about a dozen years,too! I even had a small business manufacturing raised panel doors for kitchen cabinets.I had a lot of manufacturing equipment.My kids grew up in the shop,helping. Ahhhh,those were the days. But I won't be going down that road again....
 
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