Looking good!
While you are performing chassis modifications, I do have a recommendation for you.
This part (not sure of part name - rear shock upper bracket, maybe) (White arrow) is fine for 99% of the time. It is the people who road race and place their vehicle at max extremes (ie: not normal street driving), this part will flex (twist) and will break at the ends (red arrow) eventually.
Two/three simple straps (white rectangle) – ½” to 1” wide will do the trick (it doesn’t take much).
One strap at top to floor pan (roughly in center).
One strap on bottom of bracket to floor pan (a little farther forward - but avoid the pinion snubber area).
Optional: tie both ends of lower bracket together.
I do see (blue circle) you (or prev. owner) moved your upper shock mount inwards.
I would recommend to:
A: move them back to original upper shock location (orange lines) - so shocks have more movement –
or B: move upper shock mount to a higher location on rear chassis – to again allow more shock movement. This will need a fabricated bracket welded to chassis on both ends.
Having rear shocks in vertical mounts are better than at an angle – but you will find at location currently used (blue circle) will not provide a full range of suspension movement. I do like the idea – but unless you get shocks with different travel distances – you will have problems (been there, done that).
Personally, I think the stock upper shock location is fine (orange lines) and allows shocks to work more efficiently that way.
If you raise the rear shock locations (or leave them in current location) – then the added supports I mentioned will not be needed.
A couple of questions:
Do you know what rear brake caliper brackets are being used?
Is there a rear pinion snubber attached to rear differential – and if so, does it line up with the floor pan pad (yellow circle)?
BudW