Mopar&vettedude
Well-Known Member
So I just bought a mp timing chain tensioner off of eBay. It's replacing the thrust plate for the cam. Has anyone used one on their bulids? If so is it worth putting on or just a waste of time?
Chain tensioner
- Thread starter Mopar&vettedude
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Mopar&vettedude
Well-Known Member
Hmm.. I wonder why? I'm guessing just going with a standard timing chain it'll work better. I've also noticed that the chain wears grooves into the tensioner arm after awhile, but I read that it's normal for that? Idk
volare 77
Well-Known Member
Thats what I heard. The double roller chain wears the tensioner pad away quickly. Maybe someone on here that has actually used one and can report in whether they had a issue with them or not. Dunno, I didn`t want to take the chance. I remember seeing some pics of them falling apart too.
Mopar&vettedude
Well-Known Member
Lovely. Well I guess I'll do some more research on it and make my decision from there.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
What's a timing chain? Lol
I don't run one.............
I don't run one.............
volare 77
Well-Known Member
here is a thread you could do some reading on
Small block timing chain tensioner- safe to use or not? | Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech | Moparts Forums
Small block timing chain tensioner- safe to use or not? | Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech | Moparts Forums
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I put one on my '96 Dakota 3.9L. They are known for timing chain rattle at idle and mine did it for the 120,000 miles I've owned it. Decided it was time to replace the chain and added the tensioner. Problem solved, zero noise. Standard chain btw. Chrysler started putting the tensioner on 3.9L in 1997. Must be the odd firing pulses of a 90 degree V-6 that make the chains rattle. The 5.2 and 5.9 didn't have that problem and the 3.9L is basically a 5.2 with 2 cylinders lopped off.
Mopar&vettedude
Well-Known Member
So after reading the post off that fourm, it seems everyone either likes it or doesn't. If you go with a standard timing set then it works well, but some say just to go with a good quality double roller and call it a day. The only thing that bugs me about the part is those nylon arms. Or maybe I'm just over thinking the situation...
volare 77
Well-Known Member
Yea, kinda like one more thing to break. I wonder about the quality of the nylon on those. I had a dirt bike ( my kids) and the chain had a yellow nylon( ?) rub pad. I don`t know what it was made of but that thing took a beating with dirt, etc and it hardly wore at all.
AJ/FormS
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I installed one in my 367 double roller chain engine.......in 1999. It's still in there.That was 100,000 plus hard miles ago.(stick-car)
I tore the engine apart 5 winters in a row for inspection, and the tensioner was doing fine.
I put one on my teener too, also with a double roller chain, and that was year 2000. That one has about 50,000 miles on it now.
The nylon parts didn't scare me; most 4-stroke motorcycles have similar systems.
I had my engine "line-honed", but they weren't very good at it, so I had to do something,lol.
I tore the engine apart 5 winters in a row for inspection, and the tensioner was doing fine.
I put one on my teener too, also with a double roller chain, and that was year 2000. That one has about 50,000 miles on it now.
The nylon parts didn't scare me; most 4-stroke motorcycles have similar systems.
I had my engine "line-honed", but they weren't very good at it, so I had to do something,lol.
I won’t install a small block timing chain, without one.
I just wish they had something for the big blocks to use . . .
When an engine is running, there is only play on one side of the timing chain (one side will be tight (no slack) and other side is loose) – most of the time.
If you ever set ignition timing on a car with a loose timing chain, it can be very fun because of that timing chain slack. Especially when engine changes RPM’s slightly because of the timing chain slack – the timing light is all over the place.
Personally, I do not see anything negative about installing one.
Also, on most engines that already have a worn timing chain, the cam plate (the part the tensioner is part of) is also worn which allows for camshaft walk (fore/aft) – which also effects ignition timing – so in many cases, you need a cam plate, anyway.
BudW
I just wish they had something for the big blocks to use . . .
When an engine is running, there is only play on one side of the timing chain (one side will be tight (no slack) and other side is loose) – most of the time.
If you ever set ignition timing on a car with a loose timing chain, it can be very fun because of that timing chain slack. Especially when engine changes RPM’s slightly because of the timing chain slack – the timing light is all over the place.
Personally, I do not see anything negative about installing one.
Also, on most engines that already have a worn timing chain, the cam plate (the part the tensioner is part of) is also worn which allows for camshaft walk (fore/aft) – which also effects ignition timing – so in many cases, you need a cam plate, anyway.
BudW
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
A good trimming chain, say Cloyds True Roller and a cam button is all you need in a big block. On a new chain I install cam 2 degrees advanced to allow for some chain stretch.
Mopar&vettedude
Well-Known Member
Then I'll take my chances and run it with the tensioner.
6thGenImperial
Well-Known Member
I've read many accounts of V8 Magnums running OEM timing sets with over 200K miles on them, but the OEM chains are smooth and slide over the tensioner easily. I initially was going to use one, but as has been mentioned, that nylon would get chewed to pieces by a double roller.
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
Been running one in my 360 motor for about 5 seasons now...zipping up to 6500 shift point...no problem, no chain rattle, ignition timing is very steady.
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
A gear drive would be the best solution...but very few choices in the SBM product line-up, and most are very expensive, at least the ones I've looked at were.
I have no experience on gear driven camshafts (yet). I’ve worked on a few small blocks and have seen some that looked extremely dry in the timing chain area (which was what I was replacing to begin with). The reason for looking dry was never looked into (wasn’t getting paid to do that . . .).
That said, most small blocks that I’ve been into, the area/parts was wet – so not sure if some people kept the engine oil level low (accidently or on purpose) or what was going on.
The reason I bring it up, is there is a number of additional bearings involved with a gear drive setup – and a lack of sufficient lubrication could spell disaster on some engines.
Having the police style engine oil cooler (which sprays the return oil onto the timing chain) – might be a key to longtivity (spelling?).
Granted – I don’t build engines to race with, so racers might not have any problems. I’m more thinking of people who drive cars 100K+ miles or more between rebuilds.
BudW
That said, most small blocks that I’ve been into, the area/parts was wet – so not sure if some people kept the engine oil level low (accidently or on purpose) or what was going on.
The reason I bring it up, is there is a number of additional bearings involved with a gear drive setup – and a lack of sufficient lubrication could spell disaster on some engines.
Having the police style engine oil cooler (which sprays the return oil onto the timing chain) – might be a key to longtivity (spelling?).
Granted – I don’t build engines to race with, so racers might not have any problems. I’m more thinking of people who drive cars 100K+ miles or more between rebuilds.
BudW
