Engine stalls when shifted into gear

[S&W1076]

Hi, my question concerns my 1977 Plymouth Volare 2dr. It has a 360 with a 4bbl double pumper. It has been very reliable but today suffered a serious problem. I drove it this morning and it ran great. Then later when I started it would not idle. And when I shifted it into gear it stalled immediately. The only way I could get home was to maintain 3,000 rpm when I shifted into gear. I used the brake to keep the car from getting away from me. I managed to get it to maintain a rough idle when I got it home. I disconnected the electric choke which had no effect. I could not find any disconnected vacuum lines. It still stalls when shifted into gear. I don't know what to look at. I hope you do. Thank you, Dave

P.S. Sorry for the bold type I can't turn it off.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

Could be a lot of things, check your ballast resistor, check your fuel pump, maybe a bad idle circuit in the carb

Edit: or the gasket between the carb and the intake is bad

 

[volare 1977]

float or needle and seat my guess, see what the plugs look like

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Something messed up with the carb. If it's a sudden problem could be a fuel filter starting to clog up or something on the carb sticking.
How long has the carb been on there? Was it all adjusted properly to start with?

 

[78VOLAREWAG]

Sounds like dirt in the needle & seat flooding it. Get it running and have somebody tap on the carb, where the fuel line goes in, with a screwdriver handle to try and dislodge it.

 

[69-]

If not sticking needle (above), maybe a cracked (and sunken) float inside the fuel bowl?
Then the fuel will not shut off. Look at the plugs first.

 

[LSM360]

Yes sounds like fuel issue and several good pieces of advice. Accelerator pump could cause this too.

 

[S&W1076]

Thank you everyone. I'll start checking. I have a new 650cfm Edelbrock. It would be easy to swap it out. Should I try that first? Thanks, Dave

 

[Aspen500]

If you can put the other carb on easily, give it a try. Then you'll at least know if it's a carb problem, or isn't.

 

[Oldiron440]

I would drain the fuel from the front bowl by removing a lower screw on the bowl and drain into a small container. Look for rust deposits in the fuel and color of the gas. On older vehicles rust in the fuel tank can be a problem, sometimes a quality fuel filter will fix the problem. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the tank pressure wash and seal the tank or replace the tank. Either way Rust in the fuel can be detrimental to carburetor operation.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

I would still check ignition components. I had a similar situation that ended up being an arcing coil cause by mouse chewed wires. I think it's 50/50 whether it's ignition or carb

 

[Kern Dog]

I'll chime in even though it doesn't directly apply to the specifics of this thread. Ignore me if you wish...
I've had numerous classics over the years, most of them have been drivers that sometimes sit for awhile between uses. My 67 Dart has a Holley 600 4 barrel, a carburetor that works fine for the mild 360 I have in the car.
It used to be okay after sitting awhile but the past few months it was harder to start when cold...crank/crank/crank. I'd always have to squirt gas down the throat to get ahead of the fuel pump and crank it again.
Now it has to be warmed up before it will go into gear without stalling. I noticed that the accelerator pump leaks from underneath and won't push fuel through the nozzle. For me, the problem is a dirty carburetor that needs to be rebuilt.

 

[Justwondering]

Here is my experience - first hand.
Runs like a dream.
Then fails... runs a bit I try putting it in gear and it stalls.
Hauled its ass down to my buddy mechanic. Wait for a bay to open up.
He calls me and I go down and he backstops me on looking for the problem (since at the time all I knew how to do was put gas in it and go).

Took the lines off to and from the carb.

Black silt in one of the lines.

Apparently the vapor canister failed and spewed its guts back to the carb.
The carb prefers clean fuel rather than black spew.

Took the carb off and cleaned it, new gasket, flushed the lines. Cut the vapor canister line and folded over the end of the canister line. Drove home.

Then I spent a few days figuring out how to cut open the canister, get new charcoal, new netting, put it all back together and glue it up. Realizing I am the world's worst with using a dremel to clean up edges.

Then reconnected all the lines. Posted it Vapor Canister Rebuild - 87 Fifth Avenue

And yes, I realize only me and one other person on earth would ever, ever take apart a 35 year old vapor canister.....

lol
JW

 

[Ele115]

Nobody can tell what your car is doing from this distance. You should investigate the basics. Is it rich or lean. Is it running on all 8? Does it run bad under all conditions? Otherwise you cannot even tell if it's fuel deliver vs ignition. Tackle the basics before you go unbolting things

 

[S&W1076]

Thank all of you. Just returned home. Will start trouble shooting asap.

 

[S&W1076]

Question re charcoal canister. Can't I just bypass the filter? Is it necessary for the fuel system?

 

[Justwondering]

S&W
Yes, you can bypass the canister.
Search this forum and there are several opinions on the best way.
If you want an elegant solution, a quick-and-dirty solution, a sufficient solution, or creative one. All types are here on the forum.

To get me home, the mechanic cut the line near the canister, folded it over, and used a spring clamp to keep it shut/folded. Not my long-term solution, but it was sufficient to get me going again.

BudW would tell you to 'delete' the canister but also put a venting gas cap on to be sure you don't have fumes build up.

Search is your friend here, then read the opinions, and pick what works for you.

JW

 

[S&W1076]

Thanks!

 

[LSM360]

My canister longgggg gone