Front shocks

[Oldiron440]

Yeah buddy!!
I’m gonna stick with cheap shocks.
90/10’s or drill a stock replacement

I know the Bozo that put drill the shocks crap on the internet.
When I first built my Volare I left the stock front shocks on it, they weren't leaking but were not firm. Even with the 9.5 440 the car would pull both front tires 6" on the hit but not having a firm shock aloud it to come back down to the point that it would unload the rear suspension for just a moment then hook and pick the front back up.
There was no off the shelf drag shocks for the Fbody back then so I went to Sears a picked up a set of gas charged shocks that completely worked on settling down the car. The car was running low 1.50 60ft and 7.50 1/8 mile times. But the shocks stayed on the car as it progressed to 1.40 60ft and 6.60 1/8 pass's. Now there's 90/10, 70/30 and I think ajustable available. Please don't drill holes in your shocks.

 

[old yellow 78]

I've heard mixed reviews of the KYB Gas-a-justs..

I put four new KYB Gas-Adjusts on OY a few months ago, along with new rear springs, and I am very satisfied with them. I don't think it rides too rough, although it isn't smooth as a Imperial, but I don't expect it to be. OY still had the original factory shocks on it, and they were shot. The leaf springs were basically flattened out from age and sitting. Now, it rides nicely and handles about as good as I would expect a 41 year old station wagon to handle. It's a cruiser after all. I definitely think the new rear springs also help, and I really like how it sits up just a bit now in the rear.

 

[XfbodyX]

Them are good pics bud, I need one like that, but im cheap and will wait till a whole parts rig comes around for sale.

My last one I welded up I made some better skid plates but didnt close it in for some reason, I think I could of just done the center a bit looking back but I think I didnt do it full length because of the front sway bar.

Mine had some really bad cracks in it I had to chain up and pull back to weld.

 

[BudW]

I’d like to find the “Double D socket” so I can tighten them down better.

Somehow I missed this.

Lisle shock Absorber tool. Part number 20400

Instructions say “Place stem socket over shock stem. Hex nut socket fits the nut. Hold one, turn the other for removal. One End 9/16" and the other end .591” (15 mm)”.

Snap-On A137 (1/4”) Note: they also make A138 (15/64”) and A139 (6 mm) – so don’t get them.

I don’t know company name, but their part number is “6182” for a set of two sockets.
There are other tools out there that will work fine, as well.

The flat is ¼” so a person can use a ¼” end wrench – but most end wrenches that size are “too small” for any leverage. What I use (after soaking nuts a few times with rust penetrator) is a crescent wrench for the “double D” and end wrench for the nut.
For the top (front) or lower rear, turn the end wrench leaving the “double D” still.
For the lower front shock – there is not much room for the end wrench to move, so loosen the nut by keeping the wrench still and turn the “double D” a couple of turns, then grab a hold the shock body (above control arm) and finish removing the nut.


The reason I don’t recommend turning the shaft much is the shaft (front or rear) is screwed into the piston inside of the shock after getting the shock body welded (and painted). I have seen several shocks where the shaft came un-screwed from the piston (ie: shock has come apart).
The L/F shock on my ’86 came apart and was making a loud clunk noise – most likely due to improper installation (from rotating the shaft/shock and not the nut) - before I purchased the car, that is.

L/F shock

I pulled this straight up. The lower washer and bushing had worn away.

A closeup showing the threads.

BudW

 

[XfbodyX]

Edit- I never had to use one of those D sockets. Shocks were never a challenge.

 

[BudW]

I’ve used the double D sockets in the past, but mostly it gets in the way. That said, most of the ones I worked on were not “rust buckets” (cars were still less than 10 years old or so) so the nuts came off easy. Now these cars have decades worth of rust on them, which changes things.

The front shock top nut is the hard one to remove, in my opinion. If the nut “looks” like the picture in post # 64 (2 posts, above) it might be easier/faster to cut the nut(s) off.

If you are considering cutting the nuts off, you need to look at what tools you have access too. If only a hacksaw, you might need to remove the upper control arm bracket (which shock attached) to cut it off after removed from car. If you leave the upper control arm attached the alignment will remain the same – but it can also get in your way (so, Pros and Cons).
A cut off saw or several other capable tools can make a quick job of that nut.

The same tool (or another capable tool) could also make quick play of the rear shock lower nut, as well.

A couple of years ago, I was at a Pull-A-Part grabbing upper control arm brackets. I didn’t have cutting tools with me, so I removed the upper bracket with shock installed and cut the shock nut off when I got home.

The lower nut (either front or rear shock) – at least you can use channel-lock plyers (or a big set of vice grips) to hold onto the shock tube (if you do this, the shock is ruined!) and zip the nut off with an impact. The top nut is a different story. A person could also cut (hack saw or compatible) the lower studs off sense there is access (front or rear lower studs) – which might be faster than messing with decades worth of rust.

Shock nuts (and some exhaust fasteners) are the only thing I recommend cutting off of a car.
Shocks are also one of the few items a person must replace every so often (designed to wear out, over time).

Something I have started doing, which has been working great for me (so far) is after a new shock is installed, taking a dab of grease and lightly smearing the threads afterwards. Then taking a “rubber thread protector” and sliding over the shock stud threads – so rust will not be an issue down the road.

BudW

 

[Aspen500]

One way, provided you are not reusing the shock AND you have room, is to put a socket (usually 9/16") on the nut, then a long extension. If you lever it back and forth a few times, the stud will snap off and it takes about 30 seconds. One of those "flat-rape" short cuts that worked very well. In this state, unless it's never driven in winter, 5 years old and that nut isn't coming off by normal means.
A few choice words like darn and fudge help also

 

[BudW]

One way, provided you are not reusing the shock AND you have room, is to put a socket (usually 9/16") on the nut, then a long extension. If you lever it back and forth a few times, the stud will snap off and it takes about 30 seconds.

I like it.
I would use a quality socket or an impact socket. I can see a cheap Chinese socket not lasting that way . . .