Front wheel hub

SixBanger

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Got an serious problem here. Three struds from left wheel hub are broken. Lucky I notice it in the morning on low speed road. I think one is gone by corrosion and, destroy the other ones.

So I can bore out the hub and make new struds. But I don't want to mess with this part. To get the struds fit right.

Can't find an seller for these front wheel hub. It is one with 5 struds type.

Thanks

IMG_20190204_075811.jpg
 

80mirada

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You just need new lug studs, they are press fit from the backside of the hub. The hub itself is also the rotor (unicast), and listed as such. The studs are available from a bunch of suppliers
 

Oldiron440

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Looks like it's been do for service for awhile so pull the rotor replace studs, pack wheel bearings and service brakes if needed.
 

SixBanger

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Many thanks. Order couple of struds and bearing/sealing set.
With the previous MOT, the previous owner has had maintenance done on the front brakes. I assume also the discs.


Only it seems that the left rim is unfortunately broken ... This is made of aluminum and the relevant holes have become oval. Also with the rain heard the rim a little hiss.
After replacing the studs I could drive on the spare tire. But I think I should look for a series of new rims. The current tires are 205/75/15. I could put a series of steel rims on it. But look what's for sale.

IMG_20190204_210048.jpg
 

89.Fifth

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Yes definitely find correct steel wheels. That wheel you have will keep breaking studs.
 

Rustyroger

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When my Dodge truck broke some wheel studs I found Massey Ferguson tractor studs were an exact fit....o_O
I have also found getting bearings from engineering suppliers can save a heap of money, for example a bearing for my Oldsmobile auxiliary belt idler cost $1.63 delivered to my door.

Unlike our transatlantic friends we can't just go to the nearest auto parts store. :):):)

Roger.
 

SixBanger

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Yeah, some bearing I can get at a local automotive or industry part store. For more specified stuff for these older american cars it is much more difficult to find it in europe. But it gives the hunting for stuff.

Getting steel wheels for the car is something what you don't get at a local shop. Most modern/European cars has steel rims with a large ET value, ET40-50 en so on. I need to find in an range of the current 7J15 5x4.5 rims with a 2.8" hole to fit the wheelhub.
A while ago, I did have seen some ads on the net of two f-bodys stayed at the junkyard in holland and begium. Maybe it is still there with rims. And can take a look for maybe other interesting parts.
 

89.Fifth

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Yeah, some bearing I can get at a local automotive or industry part store. For more specified stuff for these older american cars it is much more difficult to find it in europe. But it gives the hunting for stuff.

Getting steel wheels for the car is something what you don't get at a local shop. Most modern/European cars has steel rims with a large ET value, ET40-50 en so on. I need to find in an range of the current 7J15 5x4.5 rims with a 2.8" hole to fit the wheelhub.
A while ago, I did have seen some ads on the net of two f-bodys stayed at the junkyard in holland and begium. Maybe it is still there with rims. And can take a look for maybe other interesting parts.

I don't know how shipping from USA to Netherlands works but if you can figure it out I'm willing to send you steel wheels. Message me if you're interested and we'll work out details.
 

Oldiron440

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It's funny that 5 on 4 1/2 is so common in the U.S..
I'm trying to think of the metric spec, I think Rover used it at one time.
 

Rustyroger

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Try some UK classic British car websites, older British cars had imperial (inch) measurements. Possibly old Jaguar wheels might fit.
It could be very likely you might find the correct wheels from a UK source too. Many American car owners over here seem to want to stuff the biggest wheels they can on their cars. :confused::confused:
What are the dimensions of your wheels?, diameter, pcd, offset, etc?.

Roger.
 

SixBanger

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Great tips guys.
The aluminium rims: diameter R15, pcd 4.5", offset 0- 1/4". It is now fitted with an 225/75/15 tyre. I have one steel spare tyre fitted(R14). I am going to measure the steel one. And take an look on UK sites. And thanks 89Fifth, I come back on it.
 

Oldiron440

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5 on a 114.3 mm bolt circle is the metric size for 5 on 4 x 1/2 bolt circle that mopar uses.
 
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SixBanger

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BudW

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The lug stud part numbers are listed (below). This is from RockAuto.com – but using the vender name and part number – you should be able to find something.
Lug Stud.PNG


With a press or a large C-clamp, the lug studs are not too difficult to replace (I’ve replaced hundreds of them (or more) before.
If desperate, a person can use a large nut, and use an existing lug nut to help pull the stud through – but it is hard on the stud and destructive to the “large nut” and to your existing lug nut (a press or huge C-clamp is much easier).

Before replacing any studs, be sure to remove brake rotor from car and remove wheel bearings from existing brake rotor/hub. The bearing races inside of the rotor/hub should be shiny, with no scratches or discoloration. If bearing races are not shiny, then you would be better off getting a replacement brake rotor (and new wheel bearings).

Most people forget a person needs to clean and repack our FMJ front wheel bearings every 30k miles (48k km) or during every front brake job (which for most people is also every 30k miles) – or you will experience wheel bearing failure. It is no fun driving, hearing a noise, then seeing your front tire continue down the road while the rest of car grinds to a sudden stop on the road.


I like that style aluminum wheels – which only came installed on early M-body cars. It will fit most all of Chrysler vehicles made in that era. I would not trust your damaged wheel trust because of the damage from driving car with loose lug nuts (from broken studs) – but it might be repairable with someone who can weld and re-machine back to specifications. I hadn’t heard of that process being done before – but in theory it should be doable. It may be easier and cheaper to find a replacement wheel (or wheels).
All 14” or 15” Chrysler wheels that use the 5x4.5” (5x114.3 mm) bolt pattern will fit and work fine. Many other car make wheels will also fit/work fine, but your experience may vary.

The wheels from the car pictured in post #8 will work fine (but you might have other options, as well).
If you are going to look at that car - you might also check to see if it has a 7¼” or 8¼” differential in it – and if it has a 8¼”, to grab it with the propeller shaft (if at all possible).

Finding an exact copy of existing aluminum wheel is possible, but highly unlikely.
BudW
 

Rustyroger

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A friend of mine is parting out a Dodge Caravan, 4 steel wheels and a donut spare. 15", 4 1/2" pcd, but I don't know if the offset is correct.
If your Volare has the same wheels as my 1984 Fifth Avenue I can try them for size.

Roger.
 

80mirada

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Depends on year and options on caravans for wheel bolt pattern. I put my Magnum GT wheels on my parents '89 in high school for cruise night.
 
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