Fusible Links

Bruceynz

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Hi Guys,


Does anyone know what the colours of the fusible links relates to in amps? I am going to remove all my fusible links and replace with blade fuses, I have ordered some 100 amp blade fuses and some blade fuse holders with 8 gauge wire to them. Just want to make sure I get the right size fuses for the job.


Thanks

Bruce
 

Justwondering

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Bruceynz. I admire your sense of adventure. My skills in electrical run the entire length of take the battery cable off to put the battery cable on. Lol
 

80mirada

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Maxi fuse is a good replacement, there was a plug im fusible link that Chrysler used in the 90s that is an easy splice in (it is really a fuse), also. If you had any salvage yards near you that would let you go picking you could find a Maxi-fuse block or even a 100+amp magnum fuse on a newer vehicle.
 

Aspen500

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An alternative is flat fuses. I used a battery junction fuse block from an Audi TT(shut up.......) and also modified it to hold low and high beam headlamp relays. It works good as a convenient terminal block too.

As I said, just another way to do it. Yes,,,,,,I know the battery posts are bassackwards :eek:
DSCF0001.JPG
DSCF0002.JPG
 

BudW

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It is not pretty to splice in a new fusible link.

Going with a fuse box like Aspen 500 has and using maxi fuses (a bigger version of the plastic spade fuses) looks good and functional.

If I ever blow a fusible link – I do plan on upgrading.

BudW
 

80mirada

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Junked John Deere equipment is a good place to find relay blocks, and modular fuse block parts (for us scroungers). GM has a variety of useful fuse blocks (mini, maxi, ATC/ATO, and large magnum?). I have a couple Maxi block from a 92 Olds.
 

Aspen500

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My original plan was to use a junction block and maxi-fuses but this block came along at work (I worked as a miserable Audi tech from late '07 to mid '12) and replaced the engine harness on a TT that melted down. the box came as part of the harness so I cut the one from the old harness. That's where the eyelets are from as well. Hey, free is free right? lol

The trick on the underhood fuse blocks is to find one from an old enough car that the thing isn't the size of a shoebox, AND is only a fuse/relay panel and not also the electrical control (a.k.a. BCM) which is common on many vehicles today. The infamous Chrysler "Totally Integrated Power Module" comes to mind. Infamous because it's not IF, but WHEN it will fail,,,,,,,,,,,,unfortunately.
 

BudW

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The infamous Chrysler "Totally Integrated Power Module" comes to mind. Infamous because it's not IF, but WHEN it will fail,,,,,,,,,,,,unfortunately.
I sorta understand the concept.

I understand that making a relay box with 20 Individual relays in it will cost more to manufacture (in materials and labor) than an electronic box that has all built into it will.

On the other hand, replacing one defective Individual relay is a whole lot easier on the pocketbook than replacing the TIPM (Totally Interrogated Power Module) is.

Some of these have the VIN burned into them, so you can’t just go get a known good module and insert for testing purposes, either.
2004 Dodge pickup TIPM wiring.JPG

Bottom side of 2004 pickup TIPM

2012 Ram pickup TIPM wiring.JPG

2012 Ram pickup TIPM
 

Bruceynz

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Ok what are these colors. left to right:

Grey - Orange - light Blue - black - black

50amp - 40amp - ???? - 80amp - 80amp

whats light blue? (light blue is the one that has melted)



Circuit
Hypalon Link Type MAXI Fuse Rating Circuit Wire
Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK*)
Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT*)
Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (grey) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD*)
Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)

IMG_20160703_101016.jpg
 

Aspen500

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According to the parts catalog, the blue fuse link is 16 gauge but I couldn't find any definite amp rating or what maxi-fuse would replace it. I did find that a 3 foot or less length of regular 16 gauge wire is good for a 50 amp load if that helps any(?)


Yeah, those TIPM's. We've replaced a few, mostly on Ram trucks so far (and some Town and Country vans) for various faults. The Ram's is most times because they either won't start or die while driving, lose power, stumble, etc from no or low fuel pressure. The fuel pump relay is integrated into the TIPM so you have to replace the whole works at a cost of roughly $900 plus labor, which isn't much to swap them but it does go up if programming the VIN into is required. Also replaced them for other complaints as well. Mounted next to the battery, under the hood, near the front of the truck with harness connectors that are NOT sealed. They're wide open and water, and worse yet salt water in winter, gets in and corrodes everything. Hate to say it but, poor design there Mopar. :( Been used since 2007.
Sorry for temporarily hijacking your thread Brucey but:

How Chrysler's Defective TIPM is Causing Power Problems
 

shadango

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All good! its all interesting stuff, I have ordered 5 x 8 gauge blade fuse holders, some 100amp fuses and I have a box with lots of other sizes

5 Pack MAXI Blade Loop In-Line Fuse Holder 8 GA AWG Gauge OFC Copper Wire Cable
SO how did this work out? Red_Baron and I were sniffing around under his hood the other day and noticed what I believe is someone's attempt to remove the fusible link from the system completely......Not sure that is a good sitchie ation to have going on under there for long.

We also found that his fuse block in the car has broken mounting ears --- looks like the plastic just crumbled and broke.

Looks like replacing THAT would be a real pain. He used some wire ties to secure it for now.
 

Bruceynz

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Hi,

I haven't fitted them yet, have a list of many other jobs to do, but making progress, got all the bits to fix it now so just when I have time. Will post pics

Thanks
Bruce
 
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