headlights, brakes lights, interior lights done work

9secRR

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I have no lights that work on my car. interior light does not come on when I open the door. pull the headlight switch and no lights. step on brake pedal, no lights.

checked all the fuses and they are good.

what should I check next?

anybody know what fuse in the fuse block is for the lights?
 

slant6billy

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According to my owner's manual: Fuse 1- 30 amp heater blower, fuse 2 - 20 amp (this is the one I think you are fighting) Intst lights/ side mrkers/ tail lts, trailer, fuse 3 - 20 amp stop/ dome/mapclock/lighter/buzzer, fuse 4 20 amp horn...... fuse 7 cluster, fuse 10 is turn signals, fuse 12 hazards. Hope that helps good luck.
 

slant6billy

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FYI, my owners manual is for a 76 Volare. I have a 79 aspen manual somewhere. I would have to think they did not change much. The only thing that stands out in my mind is the 78 coupe and sedans have the amber rear turn lenses and 3rd bulb.
 

slant6billy

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OK found my 77 and (music please) my 79. Each one of the donor cars- donated their manuals. Scratch the info I posted earlier. For 79: Fuse 1 5amp gauges, fuse 2 20 amp instr lights/tail lts/side markers, fuse 3 20 amp open door light/ map/key buzzer/cig litr/clock, fuse 4 25 amp horn/stop/dome, .... fuse 7 heater controls, 8 blower mtr, ....fuse 10 20 amp turn signals, fuse 12 hazard. sorry for mopar's ever changing fuse lay out.
 

9secRR

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I double checked all the fuses. Still no lights, brake lights, or interior lights. Signal lights do work. What's up with that?

It's not the fuses, what else could it be?
 

slant6billy

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Get a test light or a voltmeter (fluke). Sounds like a few circuits are not working. What does your ground cable look like? Do you have a molded battery connector or the fix it type bolt on? With your test light, probe the output of the fuse block (ignition off). Lights don't need the ignition anyway. Clamp a good ground and start probing. My friend's Durango had a corroded ground wire. Strangly, it would start and drive, but turn the lights on- NO. The door switch and dash light switch - both going out? Got to be a poor ground return. Did anything get moved around? Melted? Wet? I added a few extra ground wires around my car, because of the rust proofing. Sometimes too much paint or plastic insulators work against the chassis ground.
 

NoCar340

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If by "signal lamps" you mean turn signals/hazards, then you've got a bum headlamp switch or positive feed to it. Very simply put, there are four separate circuits for your lighting: headlamp, running/courtesy lamp, turn signal, and hazard/brake. Only two of them meet inside the headlamp switch: headlamp and running. If you blow the running lamp fuse, the headlamps will work as will the brake & turn lamps, but not the rest of the running lamps, dome light, etc. The headlamps run off a separate circuit which is not fused; it has a self-resetting circuit breaker as a safety feature.

When I first got my '72 Charger SE, while barreling down a back road at dusk at 60 per, everything went dark and I heard the headlamp doors clunk shut. I stopped the car, reached up behind the cluster and fiddled around with the switch and connector, and lo, the Lord said "Let there be light!" I popped the cluster out and the connector itself was badly melted around the main power feed. The road I was on was quite rough and the vibration allowed that one wire to back off the switch. A connector scavenged from my '73 fixed the immediate issue, but what kept it from returning was my going around the car to literally every lighting ground, cleaning it up with emery cloth, and using dielectric grease on the surfaces to prevent further corrosion. Obviously, you want to start with the headlamp grounds, but the taillamps draw more than you might think when both filaments are lit (braking at night) which can seriously tax the ground connection.
 

9secRR

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all lights are good to go. fixed the problem this afternoon. factory fused link were the problem. rewired with new fuses and bingo lights work.
 
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