With some free time, I'm building a 360 for my '80 F body. Presently its a 318. Has the factory motor mounts. The 360 should be making abot 450 HP. Looked at Rock auto for new mounts, not just the insulators. They don't show any difference between a 318 and 360. I thought the drivers side mount is different. Whose right?
MOTOR MOUNTS
- Thread starter CM360
- Start date
volare 77
Well-Known Member
Yes, the left side is different. I think the ones rock auto sells are for a 318. Some people use washers to fill the gap. NOS one on ebay Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Engine mount support isolator NOS OEM 3817233 +6021516 L | eBay
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Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
I don't think you can get the 360 motor mount new anymore. When i needed one any that came in were the 318 style.
It's no big deal to use a 318 one, personally I'd do that over using an NOS one with who knows how many decades old rubber.
It's no big deal to use a 318 one, personally I'd do that over using an NOS one with who knows how many decades old rubber.
Schumacher makes real nice mounts: '73 & UP A,B,F,M, J-Body Products
I ran them on a 360 for years. If you don't want to spend $160 on mounts though then as said, you can make the driver's 318 mount work by shimming it with washers.
I ran them on a 360 for years. If you don't want to spend $160 on mounts though then as said, you can make the driver's 318 mount work by shimming it with washers.
volare 77
Well-Known Member
I feel the opposite on the rubber part of the mount. The quality of rubber from India and China is poor at best.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
It's a gamble I'd take. Yeah new rubber is junk. Boots on Moog suspension parts prove that. But old rubber can go bad pretty quickly once the stress of being used is thrown at it the same way old tires can start cracking or wear strange even tho they've never been used.
I'm running a chinese engine mount and transmission mount, neither have failed yet. Can't same the same for NOS transmission mount. Then again I also have a poly one ready to go in.
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Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
The post above this shows a mount rubber replacement using polyurethane. Polyurethane engine mounts are fine for short distances or for a race car – but will drive most people batty for a normal street driven car (too much vibration and jerkiness (or what ever word you want to use here)).
My recommendation: if you are going to use polyurethane - then leave at least one of the two front mounts in rubber. I still recommendation both engine mounts to be rubber – for a street driven car.
There is nothing wrong with using a 318 mount on the drivers side of a 340/360 engine, using spacers/washers. My other recommendation is to use Loctite on those mount to block nut(s) because I've seen those nuts loosen and fall off long term from using spacers. The other side mount nuts and nuts that don't use spacers are fine once torqued to specs (65 ft/lb).
BudW
My recommendation: if you are going to use polyurethane - then leave at least one of the two front mounts in rubber. I still recommendation both engine mounts to be rubber – for a street driven car.
There is nothing wrong with using a 318 mount on the drivers side of a 340/360 engine, using spacers/washers. My other recommendation is to use Loctite on those mount to block nut(s) because I've seen those nuts loosen and fall off long term from using spacers. The other side mount nuts and nuts that don't use spacers are fine once torqued to specs (65 ft/lb).
BudW
