Paint

[brotherGood]

Alright..So I'm going to be repainting the car hopefully by next spring. It's gonna be nightwatch blue, with a hint of metallic in it. Well be doing all body work and prep, then rolling on the trailer and sending it to a professional painter who grew up with my dad. He said hed paint it for me, all ive gotta do is buy the supplies. So, how much paint do you guys think it'll take for my M, and how much clear coat. Also, what kind? I know he uses PPG, but as far as acrylic or lacquer, or whatever, idk what's best. I'm just trying to get an idea, so I know how much money I need to make doing side stuff before I can get it.

Thanks

 

[NoCar340]

I would guess probably 3 quarts of color for an overall, a gallon if you get under the hood and decklid. You'll pretty-much have to buy a gallon of clear, but expect to have some product you don't use. I'm guessing he won't be using lacquer and probably not an acrylic enamel either.

If he goes budget (Omni is the budget PPG) on the color, it will save a lot of money and you won't be able to tell the difference in the final product. Spend the money on good clear. I also assume you'll be paying for the primer/sealer and incidentals, so I'd suggest having at least $1,500 in your slush fund. I may be a little high on that, but if something goes sideways you'll be glad you planned ahead.

 

[brotherGood]

We're gonna do all prep work here at the house, so all he needs to do is mask and shoot. I'm still pretty new to this, what is the sealer? I figured primer, then color then clear. And what incidentals? Sorry the newbness..but the most advanced painting ive done are spray can guitars.

 

[NoCar340]

If you're not going down to bare metal, you'll be using sealer to create a barrier between the old paint and the new. As far as incidentals go, we're talking sandpaper, masking tape, masking paper, mask filters, paint suit (most are disposable), catalysts for primer/sealer, paint, & clear, and so on. Anything involving a paint job you might and probably do have to buy.

 

[brotherGood]

So, primer wouldn't cut it as far as a barrier?

And what do you mean by catalysts? Like, a reducer?

 

[ramenth]

Sealer = primer sealer. It's a primer designed to "seal" out the old paint and allow new paint to stick. It also give a uniform color under the new color.

Catalyst = hardener. Any and all urethanes and enamels need a hardener.

Primer surfacer = a thick primer meant to fill in sand scratches and feather edges on body work (good ones can be used a sprayable putty and fill small voids).

Depending on your budget, I'd buy a gallon of NCP270/271. Unreduced it's a corrosion resistant primer surfacer and very easy to work with over top of body work. Reduced it's a primer sealer. When you go to buy it ask your jobber for a P-sheet. It gives you the spraying pressures, mix ratios, and which grit sandpaper to sand it with.

Your jobber can also give you recommendations on what will fit your budget.

Personally, I'd go Deltron DBC base under three coats of 2002 clear.

 

[slant6billy]

Good luck getting to that. I'm 2 years and counting to put the sprayer to the car. Been side tracked with everything under the sun. Agree: 3 qts for the outers and a gallon for over, under, insides edges. Without getting to my lists:
1 qt was 25bucks, gallon was 89 bucks, clear was close to that $$$. The primer, etching, sealer stuff was about 13 bucks a quart and it was not "good stuff", but I sprayed and sanded it on and off so much, it wasn't throwing $$$ away. Tape and paper stuff - 40 bucks.
So I'm at $260 so far (3 qts of color, gallon clear)

Here are some other cost: new air line, paint suit, hood and breathing system - 300 bucks. I'm just under 600 for funds.

Mentally I need to be in the right mood and focus, otherwise I throw that 600 in the trash. I do expect issues, and expect to sand off and respray

 

[jasperjacko]

I can see 1500-2000 for complete matls. using pretty good stuff. Good product is not cheap.

 

[Jack Meoff]

Yep....good paint is pricey.
And if you're changing the color of the car you'll need paint for jambs and deck lids....engine bay too.

Cheapest paint job I ever did was when I painted my 89 Craprice flat black with a roller.... $50 all in. :headbang:

 

[brotherGood]

Yeah, I've still got the W2 barn paint for the wheels..I'm gonna brush that on..Lol.

That roller job doesn't look too bad.

 

[Jack Meoff]

Yeah, I've still got the W2 barn paint for the wheels..I'm gonna brush that on..Lol.

That roller job doesn't look too bad.

Turned out pretty good actually.....

I'd spray bomb the wheels instead of a brush...

 

[NoCar340]

One thing to keep in mind about your paint: "nightwatch blue, with a hint of metallic in it" isn't as easy as just dropping some metallic into an existing formula. You're most likely going to be using a toner (as opposed to dry flake) , and that can radically alter the look of the color rather than just make a non-metallic into a metallic. This is much more true of dark colors in my experience. It may take a few attempts at tinting to get the right look, depending on how much metallic you want visible. Years ago, just about anyone that could mix paint could tint it but with the advent of actual variant formulations it's becoming a bit of a lost art. Mixing paint is simple; altering it is a little more tricky. Have the guy drip a little of it on the lid after mixing; it's not a perfect idea of how the paint will appear but it's pretty darned close. Take it out in the sun prior to purchasing it and see if you feel it needs to be adjusted for hue or shade. All bets are off as far as your money back on a custom mix if you're not happy with the color once you've shot it. Last but not least: make sure the actual, exact formula gets recorded. God forbid you should get in a wreck, but if you do it's awfully nice to be able to match the paint exactly.

 

[72Dodge]

Use the new dry metallic/flake that you spray onto the wet clear, brush it back, then put on the rest of your clear, instead of trying to mix it in with the paint. Wait, I just remembered you said an experienced person is doing it... in that case, do whatever he wants, but the new stuff is an option. I haven't tried it yet, but my understanding is that it's much easier to apply with a good result.

 

[brotherGood]

Well, the metallic isn't necessary..So if it's a big deal, I just won't worry about it