Rear end refresh

Camtron

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The thought of a built 400 with an A518 and 4.56 gears gives me tingles lol
Anyway questions at hand;
Love to have an O/D trans in the car
Mid 13s or a high 12, 1/4 mile would be nice
And, Illinois is relatively flat and boring so handling at low speeds would be nice but, if it just goes in straight lines really good and really fast, I wouldn’t hate it lol
The 360 is easily the more practical option...but practical isn’t always the most fun
 

brotherGood

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Option 3. Gen 3 Hemi with an OD.

You'll get the power of the 400 or built 360, and will be plenty of fun
 

Camtron

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Option 3. Gen 3 Hemi with an OD.

You'll get the power of the 400 or built 360, and will be plenty of fun
Estimated completion: 2045 lol nah, my pockets aren’t deep enough but, that would be fun
 

brotherGood

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Nah, it wouldnt take that long. Heck, I've got the 360 magnum here already and I'm still considering dumping that for a 5.7

They're out there..I've seen enough for around 6-700 complete. A pick and pull would allow the opportunity at all wiring/computers/trans as well. Heck, they bolt right up to a small block bell housing
 

Camtron

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It’s that second to last part that loses me lol I don’t want to deal with the computers and trying to stuff it all into the car and have it all still work right. That doesn’t even go well for fully sponsored TV shows a lot of the time lol just want to keep things as mechanical and basic as possible, it’s half of why I bought the car instead of getting something new again. I totaled a 2015 Chrysler 200 in, February that, I was 4 months away from actually owning...the Fifth Ave was what I picked up with the insurance settlement. Now what I save in car payment and insurance, I spend on gas and parts lol
 

brotherGood

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You don't have to stick with the FI. A buddy (and I think former member here) is running a 5.7 in his Volare that had been carbed until this past season. Turbo at that.

Dont get me wrong, I'm still voting for the 360 mag, especially how easily you're able to snag one. I was just throwing another option out for the cool factor.
 

BudW

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I’m on the fence on my recommendation for 360 Magnum or 400 option - but will toss a more items out there to make things murkier (hehe).

Fuel injection is the way to go. Carburetors had their day but, honestly, I’m tired of working on ‘em. The factory port fuel injection with on-board computer diagnostic capability is easy for me to work on. Todays 4-bbl appearing throttle body fuel injections appear to be reliable and simple – but no firsthand experience with one, yet.

I like the fact you can make a Gen3 Hemi with a carburetor – but not sure why a person wouldn’t keep it injected with either a factory or aftermarket computer system.


For simplicity, the 360 Magnum will be the way to go.
Your existing 318 timing cover and all front engine brackets will transfer over and fit. Same for transmission. The overdrive will require some tweaking, mainly because the transmission tunnel wasn’t made for O/D. If you elect to go with the magnum timing cover, A/C compressor and such, that will be a bit more work and expense – but having an auto tightening drive belt and less friction might be a better way to go. Just giving the 360 a freshening up shouldn’t be too expensive. I have even seen the factory Magnum “beer keg” port fuel injection setup under the hood of an FMJ – but the air cleaner might need some creative work.



I choose the 400 route - Mainly for the fun/smile factor and for parts availability.
At the time, I had NOS 400 and 440 short blocks in my garage (been gathering dust for decades). I have sense sold the 440 short block but picked up another NOS 400 short block (the two ’78 blocks were cast 2 days apart), dirt cheap. On the shelf is two pair of stealth cylinder heads, a pair of 440 Source stroker kits, Performer 2186 intakes and aluminum water pump housings. Even though they are brand new, I doubt the new (original) cast crankshafts, conn rods or the low compression pistons are worth anything. To keep the new blocks at stock bore, I had custom Diamond pistons made, which are coated (ceramic on top, moly on sides) for why bore out a brand new block? The wife said WHOO, before I start building the pair of engines, I must perform (her) projects A-Z and AA-ZZ first – so … my plans are slightly on hold for the moment. Yes, you can enter your comments now (if you must).
I don’t have deep pockets and I’m paying cash for the parts as I earn it (determined not to go in debt for my fun). My goal is to have low RPM torque monsters with max RPM around 5-5.5K. Both cars will be driven daily (one automatic, the other manual), so I have some work to get done on suspension, as well (torsion bars, and so forth), as well. Both cars will be injected, when I get the funds to do so.

On a side note: In my opinion, it is easier to change engines (especially if changing more than just the engine) by dropping the engine/transmission/K-frame down in one assembly (actually, its more like lifting front of car up and away from engine) - especially, if you are using headers. I’m also making a K-frame dolly for this project – sense I have two cars to transplant engines into. Stay tuned for updates – but I’m not in a hurry, though.
BudW
 

Camtron

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Unfortunately, some medical issues are going to keep me from spending much money on the car for a little while.
I’m 30, non smoker but, my lungs look like a 60-70 year old smoker. Doctor noticed a shadow on a chest x Ray a few weeks ago, CT scan confirmed two masses in my right lung so, I have to have a biopsy done on my lungs tomorrow since blood work didn’t revile anything.

Still leaning toward the 400 swap myself though. One day lol
 

BudW

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Sorry to hear about the health issue. I’m an insulin dependent diabetic and I have my issues.
That said, I made a pledge that I can’t die until I build my own casket. I have it penciled in to start building said casket in about 50 years or so, from now.


The engine transplant can be done solo if you have a decent size garage to work in. A small single car garage might be cutting it close. There are several threads on what others have done. I have even made a list of what parts will be needed – somewhere in this forum.
If you find a A518 or other Chrysler A727/A518 derivative 4-speed O/D automatic transmission, there is an adaptor you can purchase to mate the transmission and engine together. Duke5A has used it and I’m highly considering it. J.W. Performance Ultra Bell Bellhousings 92457 . It does require cutting off the existing bell housing off – but it doesn’t need to be a perfect job.
JW Ultra Bell 92457.jpg

The price listed is in US dollars, as of today (October 16, 2019).

The Dodge diesel pickup drivers are known to hop up those Cummins to insane levels (1,000+ pounds of torque and/or pulling trailers weighing 20k pounds or more, so there are a lot of high performance parts available for those A518 (etc.) transmissions. The non-electric diesel transmissions (RH vs. RE) will have governor/valve body differences (my ’97 diesel red-lines at 3k RPM) – but the gear train parts are great for strength.
A V10 pickup transmission (also uses the HD gear train parts) might make a great one to cut up and use. The V10 Viper and V10 pickups use different bell housings (from each other), and are also different from small block, big block and Gen3 Hemi’s bell housings. The V10 pickup engine is not a performance engine and is way too expensive to make it into one – so transmissions should be out there.


The big thing about installing a big block into an FMJ body is gathering parts. If you can’t find any of my posts on what is needed, send me an PM. I have most of what is needed, already.
Suspension and brake work can be done now. Differential soon afterwards. If going fuel injected and if you already have a 4-bbl installed, then that could also be done now (if that is if something you are doing).
BudW
 

Camtron

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Sorry to hear about the health issue. I’m an insulin dependent diabetic and I have my issues.
That said, I made a pledge that I can’t die until I build my own casket. I have it penciled in to start building said casket in about 50 years or so, from now.


The engine transplant can be done solo if you have a decent size garage to work in. A small single car garage might be cutting it close. There are several threads on what others have done. I have even made a list of what parts will be needed – somewhere in this forum.
If you find a A518 or other Chrysler A727/A518 derivative 4-speed O/D automatic transmission, there is an adaptor you can purchase to mate the transmission and engine together. Duke5A has used it and I’m highly considering it. J.W. Performance Ultra Bell Bellhousings 92457 . It does require cutting off the existing bell housing off – but it doesn’t need to be a perfect job.
View attachment 37328
The price listed is in US dollars, as of today (October 16, 2019).

The Dodge diesel pickup drivers are known to hop up those Cummins to insane levels (1,000+ pounds of torque and/or pulling trailers weighing 20k pounds or more, so there are a lot of high performance parts available for those A518 (etc.) transmissions. The non-electric diesel transmissions (RH vs. RE) will have governor/valve body differences (my ’97 diesel red-lines at 3k RPM) – but the gear train parts are great for strength.
A V10 pickup transmission (also uses the HD gear train parts) might make a great one to cut up and use. The V10 Viper and V10 pickups use different bell housings (from each other), and are also different from small block, big block and Gen3 Hemi’s bell housings. The V10 pickup engine is not a performance engine and is way too expensive to make it into one – so transmissions should be out there.


The big thing about installing a big block into an FMJ body is gathering parts. If you can’t find any of my posts on what is needed, send me an PM. I have most of what is needed, already.
Suspension and brake work can be done now. Differential soon afterwards. If going fuel injected and if you already have a 4-bbl installed, then that could also be done now (if that is if something you are doing).
BudW
I appreciate it Bud, thank you.
 

brotherGood

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Unfortunately, some medical issues are going to keep me from spending much money on the car for a little while.
I’m 30, non smoker but, my lungs look like a 60-70 year old smoker. Doctor noticed a shadow on a chest x Ray a few weeks ago, CT scan confirmed two masses in my right lung so, I have to have a biopsy done on my lungs tomorrow since blood work didn’t revile anything.

Sorry to hear that man..I hope the biopsy comes back in your favor.
 

Camtron

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Thanks guys. I haven’t got any conclusive answers yet. 16 labs all came back normal so, their waiting on two cultures that will take another 6-8 weeks to grow and hopefully, one of them will show an atypical bacteria or infection that’s caused this cavity in my lung. If both those cultures come back negative then, they will conclude, I have some “indolent lung cancer” and either refer me to a cancer specialist or, go ahead with a partial lung resection and do a series of chest imaging and monitor things as I get older...I have some thinking to do lol
Anyway, I’m trying to keep busy so tonight I have a alternator swap and transmission service to knock out. Trying to decide if I’m feeling froggy enough to replace the freeze plug behind my starter that’s started to weep and swap out my thermostat for winter time.
 

BudW

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This is NOT what you want to hear - but I've gotta say it:
If you have a leak at one freeze plug, then most/all others will be the same/similar condition. There are two freeze plugs behind the transmission that need to be replaced, as well. It can be done in car, but I recommend removing engine. You will have the roughly the same labor, but it might be easier with engine not directly over you.

When a "rear" (loosely defined, in this case) freeze plugs is out, take a small screwdriver (coat hanger or whatever) and dig inside the cooling jacket. If you find any crud, then take the time with a water hose and wash out as much of that crap (opps, sorry, four letter word) as you can get out. It might take some time, but car will run much cooler and coolant will stay cleaner (for longer). What I find is “that @#$% buildup is what rusts the freeze plugs from inside out.

Another thing I do when I "suspect" there might be a leaking freeze plug, is to take a small screwdriver and start poking at the lower part of freeze plugs. Any “give” or punctures – then you have discovered gold (not)! Better get it now than before it gets stuck on side of road, somewhere (with even more problems, like blown head gaskets or worse).

When engine is out, it might not be a bad idea to change most of the seals/gaskets. Every seal/gasket is leaking on both my ’77 and ’86 from what I believe to be gasket shrinkage. Todays gaskets are much better than what they used 40 years ago, anyway. Don’t forget to replace the valve seals while there.

After that, give engine a nice coat of paint and she’ll look nice for a long time.

If you are having transmission problems, then could take care of both, at same time.
BudW
 

Camtron

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Drive home no problem last night, go get coffee this morning and my timing chain is clattering ridiculously. Have had a Cloyes double row timing kit in the garage, picking up new water pump, timing cover and gaskets today. Would have liked to have spent the money on my rear end so I could have got it in the car this month but, alas, I have to keep the car drivable above all else. So, I’ll spend Christmas Eve tearing everything apart and Christmas Day putting it all back together.
Just in time for the holiday spirit lmfao.
 

BudW

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O man. Sorry to hear about that.

A couple of tips for ya:
- Take vehicle to a carwash and spend a few $ in cleaning the area well.

- Use a tread cleaner to clean out all bolt holes in block and in timing cover. A tap could work but the official tool (thread cleaner) does a much better job on cleaning those threads – which (in my opinion) is a REQUIREMENT on small blocks, and not something nice to do.
Craftsman Thread chaser.jpg

One example (of many possible brands).

Because of the dissimilar metals used (aluminum, steel and iron) and the possibility of coolant seeping into the timing cover bolts, there is a high chance of corrosion that occurs in that area. With the corrosion, there is also a high potential of timing cover bolt breakage upon removal – which if that happens, is the start of a BAD DAY.

Once timing cover is off car, take a rifle bore cleaner (or something similar) and clean out those timing cover bolt holes really well – even if there is little sign of corrosion present (to prevent additional problems in the future).
Take a wire brush and clean any bolt that has signs of corrosion present – again, really well.

I don’t normally recommend using anti-seize compound for engine fasteners, but in this case, I highly encourage to add a good dab of anti-seize compound onto any bolts (threads) that will be touching aluminum and iron close to coolant. This will prevent those water pump/timing cover bolts from breaking off in the future. A little extra work WILL PAY OFF for future repairs. I can’t remember how many small blocks that I’ve had to work on with corroded timing cover bolts and/or broken bolts in that area (in the hundreds).
Anti Seize Co.jpg


- If you have the money, pick up this item and install. If will help more than you might ever know:
small block tensioner.jpg


Dodge 53021195aa ($49.50 US), as of today.
Mopar Performance P5007709 ($45ish)
Cloyes 9-5387
Melling BT428
Enginetech TT387
The above (bottom) three range between $20-30 (US) from Rockauto.com and about $45 from O’reilly auto parts.

- Once cover and water pump is bolted down, I like to take a can of engine spray paint and give a shot around the gasket areas. The gaskets do a good job, but paint also gives an extra protection layer to prevent future leaks. Note: this works better if surface was cleaned well before disassembly.

- The last thing is to feel the balancer hub after its removed. Sometimes the rubber from the seal can grove the hub. If it will catch a fingernail, get a balancer repair sleeve.
Balancer NS_88218.jpg

This is a National 88218 (about $10, US) , but others make one as well. I think it is odd something as soft as rubber can wear out steel (or cast iron), but it does. This is cheap insurance over a likely oil leak area.
BudW
 

Camtron

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O man. Sorry to hear about that.

A couple of tips for ya:
- Take vehicle to a carwash and spend a few $ in cleaning the area well.

- Use a tread cleaner to clean out all bolt holes in block and in timing cover. A tap could work but the official tool (thread cleaner) does a much better job on cleaning those threads – which (in my opinion) is a REQUIREMENT on small blocks, and not something nice to do.
View attachment 38558
One example (of many possible brands).

Because of the dissimilar metals used (aluminum, steel and iron) and the possibility of coolant seeping into the timing cover bolts, there is a high chance of corrosion that occurs in that area. With the corrosion, there is also a high potential of timing cover bolt breakage upon removal – which if that happens, is the start of a BAD DAY.

Once timing cover is off car, take a rifle bore cleaner (or something similar) and clean out those timing cover bolt holes really well – even if there is little sign of corrosion present (to prevent additional problems in the future).
Take a wire brush and clean any bolt that has signs of corrosion present – again, really well.

I don’t normally recommend using anti-seize compound for engine fasteners, but in this case, I highly encourage to add a good dab of anti-seize compound onto any bolts (threads) that will be touching aluminum and iron close to coolant. This will prevent those water pump/timing cover bolts from breaking off in the future. A little extra work WILL PAY OFF for future repairs. I can’t remember how many small blocks that I’ve had to work on with corroded timing cover bolts and/or broken bolts in that area (in the hundreds).
View attachment 38560

- If you have the money, pick up this item and install. If will help more than you might ever know:
View attachment 38561

Dodge 53021195aa ($49.50 US), as of today.
Mopar Performance P5007709 ($45ish)
Cloyes 9-5387
Melling BT428
Enginetech TT387
The above (bottom) three range between $20-30 (US) from Rockauto.com and about $45 from O’reilly auto parts.

- Once cover and water pump is bolted down, I like to take a can of engine spray paint and give a shot around the gasket areas. The gaskets do a good job, but paint also gives an extra protection layer to prevent future leaks. Note: this works better if surface was cleaned well before disassembly.

- The last thing is to feel the balancer hub after its removed. Sometimes the rubber from the seal can grove the hub. If it will catch a fingernail, get a balancer repair sleeve.
View attachment 38562
This is a National 88218 (about $10, US) , but others make one as well. I think it is odd something as soft as rubber can wear out steel (or cast iron), but it does. This is cheap insurance over a likely oil leak area.
BudW
Will the tensioner work alright with a double row timing chain? That’s what I have to install but, the tensioner I ordered comes with a single row chain and gears so, I guess no big deal either way.
 

Justwondering

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don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question about thread cleaners.

Stop me if you've heard this before ...
I have a 580k backhoe with a few problems.

One problem is there are supposed to be 8 studs on the front wheels.
The front left has 6 studs and two holes that look like either:
1. a lug nut was overtightened and broke the stud off
OR
2. a nitwit used a drill to try to 'remove' the stud because they didn't know what they were doing.

Either way I have two holes and each appear to have material in them one in the threads and the other I just can't tell but think the center is drilled out.

Would a thread cleaner help? she asks as she goes over to the interweb to search for info on thread cleaners....

JW
 
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