Rear Wheel Noise

Justwondering

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I can't find the thread describing different noises when you are 'checking' your wheels.

Somebody, please point me in the right direction.

Suburban, had the new tires moved from rear to front.
Had the old tires put on the rear and made sure they balanced them.

Jared (guy at the shop) pointed out that when you grab the rear passenger tire at 3 and 9 oclock position and pull/push it makes a noise. Kinda like a clunk sound. I asked him what he thought and he said maybe a wheel bearing going out. But that it might be the rim is wonky. Yes there was some play in the wheel when shoving it side to side.

Any advice would be welcome. I need to take the suburban to santa fe, NM and back (1200 to 1400 miles depending on weather and roads) sometime in next 45 days.
 
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89.Fifth

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Yeah that sounds just like a wheel bearing. Not terrible to replace. Why not bring it to a shop that specializes in 4x4s or drivetrains for a second opinion?
 

volareandgtcat

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Yeah that sounds just like a wheel bearing. Not terrible to replace. Why not bring it to a shop that specializes in 4x4s or drivetrains for a second opinion?

Yeah .. I agree ... a wonky rim wouldn't of balanced easily and they would of notified you of that.
 

BudW

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Replacement wheel/hub bearings on GM products fall under three grades:
- Ok
- Might be considered to be decent – but not quite.
- Not worth buying – but everyone keeps doing so every few months (to replace the previously replaced “Not Worth Buying” hub/wheel bearings).


I “think” Timken makes the hub/wheel bearings for GM. GM and Timken are the most expensive wheel bearings out there – but also don’t need to be placed as often as other brands need to be.

If you are planning on keeping the vehicle for a long time, then get the more expensive bearing (they will pay for themselves in the long run). If not, then go with one of the other two lesser ranges (identified by price).
If someone has a lifetime warranty on wheel/hub bearings – then I might also consider that option.

GM vehicles as well as other vehicles with the (un-boltable) hub & bearing assembly (in my opinion) needs to be replaced every 50 to 80k miles.

The cone/cup "greasable" wheel bearings can last forever - with proper maintaince.
 

Aspen500

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I believe she is referring to the rear, but as an auto tech,,,,,,,,,replacing integrated front hubs on GM's is a normal thing. if only they wouldn't become as one with the steering knuckle, lol.

On the rear axle, the in/out play can also be normal end play in the axle shafts. There will be a slight amount even when brand new. Excess end play can be caused by the c-clip wearing (not common) or the groove the c-clip goes in on the end of the axle is worn (also not common). If it's a limited slip (a.k.a. "posi"), as the clutch plates wear, axle shaft end play increases. The actual axle shaft bearing has nothing to do with the end play.
Also, if the thrust washer on the side gears in the differential wear, or the carrier and/or side gears wear you'll get more end play.
Only way to know for sure is pull the cover and look. Spec is .008-.025" but even brand new rear axles are sometimes more than that.
 

Kernel Sanders

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Agree with the above about the C-clip axles, perfectly normal...side to side and up and down play = bad/worn bearings

PS I am not familiar with GM rears so if NOT a c-clip design but a Timkin type design as in 8.75 then endplay = bad/worn bearings or worn thrust-pin or plain misadjustment
 

BudW

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I think the (few that are out there) four wheel steering rear axles use hub/wheel bearings – but I didn’t read the entire post and assumed she was talking about the front bearings and not the rear (my bad).

GM differentials are not known to be bulletproof – so there could be a number of issues or reasons for this concern. Wheel bearings, C-clip (it is a C-clip design), pin wear, carrier pin hole is oblong, pin bolt failed and so on.

Pretty much any of which will require inspection cover removal to find out.

I’m going to recommend this be a job for a repair shop.
I have rebuild and been inside of more differentials than most people have ever seen – but if you hadn’t been in one before – a lot of items to look for will take more time to describe as to what to look for, and then, if something is needed – then there is the lack of special tools to fix it.

The front wheel bearings are not too bad to replace, but the rear ones take some time and tools to do it.

BudW
 

Aspen500

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I agree, rear axles require some special tools to do it right. If you get into setting pinion depth and/or backlash it's even more important to have the right (read expensive) gauge tools.

Front hubs can be easy or far from easy, depending on your location. In Texas, probably not a big deal. In Wisconsin, you WILL need a BIG air hammer to remove the hub assy from the knuckle, guaranteed. That's after you get the rotor off, which can be an adventure all to itself. If it's an aluminum knuckle, all the worse. Steel and aluminum together (dissimilar metals), add some electrolyte (salt water) and they sometimes are almost inseparable, seriously. Actually, we've run into a couple that were. Knuckle off the car (Toyota Prius, lol), heating the knuckle with a torch while maxing out our 20 ton bench press and it never even wiggled. That's my rant about road salt use for the day:confused:
 

Justwondering

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I'm going with the AAA card and sending it on a trip to Santa Fe, NM for a week. Two different guys looked at it, one said maybe a problem and other just rolled his eyes and said normal.

Told my brother I'd come save him if he has problems.

When it returns, it will go into the shop so the mechanic can tell me I'm being paranoid and its normal play OR beat me up for letting it on the road for a long trip.
 

BudW

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It wouldn’t hurt to have the differential fluid changed first and make sure it full before departing.
 
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