Replacing /6 engine mounts

[shadango]

ANy advice on replacing the engine mounts on a slant 6, 1980 F body?

The left one on our newly acquired Volare is bad....engine rocks pretty good if in drive and you hit it hard....

So I went to Rock Auto and it looks like you can actually just buy the rubber insert or the whole unit?

No point replacing the brackets I guess if I can just replace the rubber inserts but wanted to check in here for some advice/experienced info.....

Also -- looks like the left side (drivers) is easy enough to get to...but the passenger side...yikes.....any tips here would be appreciated as well!

Thanks all!

 

[Aspen500]

You can replace just the insert, it's kind of a job though. Once the new ones are in, they need to be swedged to hold them in place. The spool mounts on my car, I had no luck trying to flare them out like original. Ended up putting a couple MIG tacks on each one instead. That works fine. If you make the tacks small and quick, the heat isn't enough to damage the rubber.

I see Rock only has the complete assy for the left (drivers) side, but for the price may as well get the whole thing and then you'll only have one insert to fight with (for the passenger side).

 

[shadango]

Thanks Aspen500....

So it sounds like replacing the whole thing is the better/faster way to go. For the cost difference I think we'll go that route. Havent checked other vendors yet so maybe we can find the right one too as a complete assembly.

Any advice on the swapping out process? Where to support the engine, etc?

How hard IS the right one to get at? Looks intimidating...LOL

 

[Aspen500]

Have to admit I got curious and checked the usual like CARQUEST, Napa, O'Reilly, etc and no right side assy. Actually they don't have the left side either. One thing about Rock Auto, I think they bought up all the "NOS" aftermarket parts, especially when it says they have 9 assemblies left. In other words, when they're gone, that's all there is. Off topic but, at work we needed an EGR valve for an '82 'Vette (yeah, I know ) and it's obsolete everywhere except Rock had 4 remaining in stock (now three, lol)

As far as changing them, it's been 27 years since my car had it's S6 and don't really remember anymore. A cherry picker is best to raise the engine up with, otherwise you can use a block of wood and a floor jack under the pan. As long as you're careful to not try and jack the engine up farther than it can go, the pan will be fine. Just be sure the block of wood distributes the load decent. Something like a piece of 2x6 works good. All I remember is the right side is tight for working room.

On the through bolts, you have to turn the nut, not the bolt. The bolt should have a couple ribs on it that keep it from turning in the mount sleeve. Once the nut is off, raise the engine slightly to take any pressure off the bolt, if there is any, and pull the bolt out.

 

[BudW]

I honestly can say I hadn’t had to change engine mounts on a /6 before.
A few hundred of every thing else, I think . . .

I have a few of the mount insert sleeves in my garage - but hadn’t taken the time to actually use one yet (either).

3817168 is the Right side engine mount (and correct) part number (metal bracket, insert and rubber - so a bolt in part).

An unreliable guide says Chrysler part numbers 3726218, 3726620 and 4001738 also fit - and even though I don’t like this guide, I do believe it is correct in this case.

I looked in several service manuals I have, and each one of them gave instructions for engine mount replacement procedures - except for /6. I even went back to my ‘60's guides and still ‘nutin!

BudW

 

[Jack Meoff]

I found this and thought it might be helpful.

Slant Six Forum, :: View topic - Replacing engine mounts

 

[shadango]

I found this and thought it might be helpful.

Slant Six Forum, :: View topic - Replacing engine mounts

Thanks for this link!!!!!!!

 

[shadango]

HELP! We are stuck.....have the drivers mount out....got the passenger side free but cant get it out ofrom the frame etc...no room to get it out....

Does the fuel pump have to come out
?

 

[Aspen500]

Generally in a situation like that, it's a matter of removing stuff that's in the way until the part you're going after can come out.
Run into that everyday at work, lol.

 

[shadango]

Well, we got 'er done. And I feel like a truck hit me, stopped, backed up and then ran over me again, stopped and repeated. LOL

The trick was to turn the mount on its side, turn it around and then at the same time pull the jacked up engine to the drivers side. That is part of why I feel so abused......I was using the car as leverage for my chest and arms to pull on the engine.....and I used muscles I havent used in a while...LOL...and My ribcage is sore and bruised. Fun stuff!

It was such a PITA. Once we figured that out the right side went back together easy enough. Have to be a octupus to get into those tight spaces and have multiple hands. My son is still thin and wiry so he was perfect for the block bolts. LOL This old man had to do the top side and while not impossible, its tight.

The good thing though is that the pump, alternator and distributor all stayed in.

Surprisingly we had issues getting the LEFT side back down into the cradle and then to get the stupid A/C support bracket to line up with the hole we had to drill into the bracket for it. We matched exactly where it was on the original bracket....but was off somehow. We end up slotting the hole some and using a slightly undersized bolt. We will watch that bolt and assembly closely.

We started prepping for degreasing at 10am and closed the hood at 10pm. The kid (turning 17 in August) stuck with me the whole time....very proud of the boy!

 

[Justwondering]

You have created a great memory for both of you.