Replacing front left brake line

shadango

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Ugh

Brake hoses need replaced on the 81 Dippy.....left brake line snapped as predicted at the brake hose connection block.....not a huge deal since its only a 12" piece of 3/16" brake line.....have the NiCu 12" with fittings piece ordered at the store....

But the right side.....

I have the fitting broke loose, but the whole line is turning with it.....hasnt twisted yet.....

I guess the fitting is galded to the line just like the left side.

THAT brake line is a real PITA cause it goes along the firewall...

Any tips or tricks to get me through this??? I am hoping I can get a premade piece the right length.....I hate flaring brake lines.....havent done many and when I did it sucked...LOL

But right now the big nightmare ahead of me is getting the old one out......
 

Aspen500

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Doing double flares on the NiCu line is way easier than steel line.

However, you can try heating the tubing nut, a propane torch should be hot enough, to expand it so it releases from the tube. I assume the line isn't rotted much since you're not replacing it, so the heat should work. May have to heat, work the nut, heat, lather, rinse, repeat.
 

shadango

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Doing double flares on the NiCu line is way easier than steel line.

However, you can try heating the tubing nut, a propane torch should be hot enough, to expand it so it releases from the tube. I assume the line isn't rotted much since you're not replacing it, so the heat should work. May have to heat, work the nut, heat, lather, rinse, repeat.

I may try heating it up......I guess that will not cause any damage...I have a pencil-tip butane small torch I may try.....

The fitting end at the wheel looks OK to me....just galled up.....but then its touch to see under the steel coil.....

I replaced the driver side no problem.....bend isnt factory looking but oh well...LOL

My biggest concern is how the heck to get that passenger side line out as one piece???? And course get it back in as one piece....

They have a 60" long pre-made NiCu piece at the auto store.....I am not sure that would be long enough.....feels more like 72" or more....what with all the bends etc....its 44 inches just from one end of the firewall to another, as the crow flies.

Once I start down the road of heating and twisting i would like to know if I am up schitts creek as they ...LOL....I can drive the car as it sits......but once I open up that can of.....well....you all know. LOL
 

Aspen500

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You can use 2 pieces of line and connect them with a union to make it easier to install. Perfectly acceptable to have a union, or two. I'm talking inverted flare unions, NOT compression unions. Some factory brake lines use unions so not to worry!

If you have to have the car driveable for the next day, just be careful with the tube nut. Watch to be sure the line isn't twisting without realizing it. If it doesn't come loose, tighten it back up for now. Maybe spray it with some good penetrating oil and let it soak a couple days, then heat if needed.
 

shadango

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You can use 2 pieces of line and connect them with a union to make it easier to install. Perfectly acceptable to have a union, or two. I'm talking inverted flare unions, NOT compression unions. Some factory brake lines use unions so not to worry!

If you have to have the car driveable for the next day, just be careful with the tube nut. Watch to be sure the line isn't twisting without realizing it. If it doesn't come loose, tighten it back up for now. Maybe spray it with some good penetrating oil and let it soak a couple days, then heat if needed.

Yeah I am hoping patience helps here.....

Though I am short on that lately...LOL

I had thought about a union, but honestly, I do not know how I would gain access to the line anywhere along its length to cut and flare it!!!!
 

volare 77

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Tighten and loosen the fitting back and forth in small increments . Heat is your best friend. Be careful as brake fluid is very flammable. Ask me how I know. LOL
 

Aspen500

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It won't burn inside the line, only where it can get oxygen. Yes you need to be careful but after literally 100's of times heating tubing nuts, most that's ever happened is a small fire about the size of a birthday candle. When heating the tubing nut, there's no fluid present.
 

Mikes5thAve

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Brake hoses also like to blow off when you heat those parts so wear eye protection try not to get too close.
It's more startling if it does it then anything else.
 

volare 77

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I had drained the brake fluid in a pan. The drip from the line caught fire and lit the pan on fire. My first reaction was to toss the pan outside. I threw it out on the grass. The crap went everywhere. I got it out with a fire extinguisher and now it reminds me I need to get my extinguisher refilled.
 

Aspen500

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Brake hoses also like to blow off when you heat those parts so wear eye protection try not to get too close.
It's more startling if it does it then anything else.
It will get your attention, that's for sure! Sounds like a gun shot going off.
Forgot about that. It's a good idea to disconnect the other end of the hose first to prevent any blow off situations. With a small propane torch, it may not be much f a concern. Using an oxy-acetelene torch is another story.

Of course, it's a very good idea to have a fire extinguisher near you when doing things like this, just in case.
 

Duke5A

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If you need to replace the line and don't want to use unions you can get that NiCop line in rolls. I'm using the same stuff now with stainless tube nuts for brakes and fuel.
 

shadango

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If you need to replace the line and don't want to use unions you can get that NiCop line in rolls. I'm using the same stuff now with stainless tube nuts for brakes and fuel.
My biggest concern (what has had me in dread all week) is how to get a new line IN. Getting the old one out, just cut it out in pieces...

But it is so buried in there.....no idea how I will get a NEW line in, in one piece. It fits flush up against the firewall, all the way across, but is UNDER things like the heater core lines, all the electrics, windshield washer motor, etc.....

At the prop valve end , it goes under/behind the power brake unit and twists behind the prop valve.....and at the wheel side, it makes a sharp turn down the firewall and then into the wheel well.

I have had it "soaking" since Monday morning....spraying it with PBB a few times a day.....

To be honest I am trying to decide if I even want to mess with it.....cause if that line breaks at the nut, THEN I have no choice.

The brake hose is OK.....right at the sharp bend where it attaches to the caliper, the rubber covering has come off of about an inch.....no leaks or anything...rest of the hose feels good.....but the inspection guy has mentioned it.....figured I would replace the hoses and got the left side done.

The other rub is finding damn copper washers that seal right....the new ones provided are not thick enough....had two NOS Dorman pieces from 10 years ago and they worked on the left side.....gonna have to order some for the right......

Ugh.

Cant nothing be easy? LOL
 

Duke5A

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Well, I'll be in the same boat this weekend. I'm going to replace the front calipers and hoses on the car with a set of 4-piston Wilwood units and braided stainless lines. The entire time I've had the car I've never cracked the front rubber lines free of the hard line.

I had a hell of a time getting those copper crush washers to seal on a rear disc conversion last year on the car. Turns out if you heat them up cherry with a propane torch and let them air cool it greatly increases their ability to seal. Give it a try.
 

Mikes5thAve

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Too bad they can't make anything right anymore (the copper washers).
For the line would it help getting it in if there was a union somewhere near the middle of if so that you could work either end in place and then just have to deal with working around the top o the engine to get to the union to put that part together?
 

shadango

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Too bad they can't make anything right anymore (the copper washers).
For the line would it help getting it in if there was a union somewhere near the middle of if so that you could work either end in place and then just have to deal with working around the top o the engine to get to the union to put that part together?
There are only two areas that could work on this car....

in the very middle of the engine bay, on the fire way......it would be a lot of stretching...LOL.....but I suppose doable.....could cut the line there and pull each half out maybe.....though it still seems like it will be pretty rough......pus, having a union right over top of the exhaust manifold scares me....if it ever decides to leak.....

The other spot is as it makes its descent down the firewall on the passenger side....that would make the portion leading to the wheel well easier to get out......but again, it doesnt help the drivers side.

Its like they built the damned car around that line.

I know that using a NiCu will be a little easier since it bends easier...but........ ugh
 

Mikes5thAve

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They didn't build it around that line but it was probably already in place when the engine went in. Which probably went in with the K frame at the same time.
 

shadango

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So I am wondering ...if anyone has done this before.....if it is possible to pull the retaining clip from the hose block and pull enough line through the hole with it connected to the block so as to hold the line (and its siezed-on fitting) in place while turning the HOSE assembly off?

Seen this done online but in those cases the bracket was bolted to the frame. On the Dippy, the brake block is surrounded by welded bracket.......if I can pull enough line through maybe it will spin off?

If this has been tried and doesnt work I wont bother trying....LOL

Havent tried heat yet.....have to wait til my supply of 1/16" thick 7/16" ID crush washers arrive later this week......so I can pull the hose off the caliper....

Praying that maybe the end run of spinning it off will work? Would have to be able to pull a good couple inches thru though.....

right front brake hose union 01.jpg
 

volare 77

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Use the mopar copper washers if you can still get them. They were the correct thickness and softness. I think the part number is 6030084
 
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