speedmaster(procomp) heads

NoCar340

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I actually prefer the hydralic lockup setup better than the electrical... it's less work and functions pretty well. However, if one has the electric lockup function the best way to connect it (in my opinion) is via a throttle switch with a manual override. You definitely want the lockup to kick out in high-throttle conditions such as passing, and the manual override would allow you to lock it out during heavy loads like towing if you're inclined to doing such things. Simply running it through a manual toggle only would work but if you forget to flip that switch when you stand on it, you will damage the converter. You might not break it, but you're one step closer to doing so every time that happens.

Of course, none of this applies if you have a several-thousand-dollar multiplate-clutch billet converter. They are out there, most easily found through diesel suppliers like SunCoast (you really don't want their standard ultra-low stall ratios, though). Prepare to open your wallet as wide as, or wider than, you did when you bought the whole car. :eusa_doh:

On the cylinder heads, I was initially thinking "Man, that seems like a lot of effort just to maintain the crappy stock intake port window," but then I went downstairs and looked at my J heads: NASCAR guides, 5/16" intake stems, 11/32" exhaust, titanium valves/locks/retainers, "bad homegrown" Comp/Lunati double valvesprings w/dampers, etc. and decided this really wasn't much effort at all. :icon_biggrin:
 

76volareman

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my 518 is non lockup. im running a factory 727 hi-stall thats
been loosened a bit. i was going to run a set of indy-x heads from hughes but the aluminum heads were more affordable. i have like $1300 into these heads.
 

76volareman

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runs better with this setup.

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76volareman

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also swapped on the cordoba 11.75" rotors. stops well with the jeep cherokee rear discs too.
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also i put 3.55's. and a trac-loc in it. with the 235- 55-18's in the rear it can use more gear but for the street its good. i run 235 -50-18's on the front on 2012 challenger wheels and 1" spacers.

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gtsdude

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Nice! That is a good deal on cnc ported heads with good parts, where did ya buy them at? I have seen a few sets on eBay bare but not cnc ported.
 

76volareman

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I got them from http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Chrys...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e348e9b2&vxp=mtr ignore the parts description about the 1.62 exh. seat and magnum stuff. I tried to explain to them to no avail the dif, between Magnum and LA.


then get your choice of std. length small chevy 2.02, 1.60 valves and a set of retainers and springs with around a 1.8" installed height and your set. Always measure your installed height before you order springs first though. don't forget a spring cup or just a shim like I used. I got the best rocker arm wipe with no shims under my shafts with 273 rockers. The oem pushrods worked too.
 

70aarcuda

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Since the Procomps are a copy of the Eddy head...the Eddy head use 11/32 stem 5.010 length chevy valves....
 

76volareman

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got some 1.6 rollers from prw. once set up with correct alignment and some hughes make it yourself pushrods. work really well. now the car is like a light switch from 4000rpm on. i really need a good 10" converter.

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76volareman

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so after months and thousands of miles of running these heads have not failed yet. i wouldnt recomend the cnc'd versions for under a 408ci engine though. my bottom end is soggy even with 10.2-1 comp. and a fairly mild cam. also my headder flange overhangs the exhaust port outlet of the head causing wierd reversion that i cannot seem to tune out. also not an issue on the non-cnc'd heads. oh well. live and learn that bigger is not always better. im getting a set of indy x heads soon. lol.
 

greymouser7

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Man am I jealous. those heads went up to edelbrock head prices (over 700 a piece, nonported) on ebay and you can spend 150 more to get indy or brodix...

those are the heads that I wanted---
 

76volareman

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I reduced my total timing to a dismal 32 deg. Actually runs better. Midrange picked up quite a bit. No vac adv. 16deg initial. Had it at 36 to 38. Wierd. Must be a thing with lots of quench on the head design.
 

MiradaMegacab

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Do the chambers have a flat quench surface in the same location as your pistons?
Are you at zero deck height?
I've consumed a little too much alky discuss flame propaganation. .....
 

kkritsilas

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Sorry to barge in on this thread, but I wanted to ask about the A518. The A518 is basically a TF727 with an overdrive and a lock-up torque convertor, correct? Being TF727 based, it has the 2.45 first gear, as do all models of the TF727. The way to get around that is to go with a lower rear end gear, isn't it? As in if the car originally had, lets say, a 2.94 rear end gear, go to a 3.23 or a 3.55 rear end gear. With the overdrive gear in the A518, those rear end ratios are liveable on the highway, are they not? A 3.55 becomes a 2.63 in overdrive, and 3.23 becomes a 2.39 in overdrive, both considerably better than the 2.94 in 3rd on a TF999/998. Low gear overall works out to be 7.91 with the 3.23, and 8.69 with the 3.55 using an A518. The TF999/998 with a 2.94 rear end gear ends up with an overall low gear of 8.05-8.06. You should be able to pick up both low end acceleration and a lower rpm level with the A518 with the 3.55 rear end and very marginally (perhaps even un-noticeably) less low end performance with the 3.23/A518 than the A999/A998 and a 2.94 rear end gear. There will still be more losses and weight with the A518, but there isn't much you can do about that, unless you want to look at some serious (read: expensive) transmission work. Of course, it will still require a shortened drive shaft, and working out the linkages

Kostas
 
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