Starting Problem '79 Volare

QubusLewis

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hey!

this morning on my way to work i went and started the Volare. everything was fine, car turned over and off i went.

when i got off of work, i go and get in the car ready to roll, and when i turn the key i get it cranking.. but then nothing. This goes on a few minutes before i give it up. 30 minutes later i come back to give it a shot, and now when i turn the key absolutely nothing.. no lights, no crank, nothing.

AAA came out and said the battery was good, when he hooked up his portable charger it cranked, but didn't fire.. after he left it went back to no sound, no lights. I'm working with a stock super six setup.

last week i replaced the starter after it gave out on me, but now i am at a loss..

curious if anyone has been down this path before, or knows how to help / what to look out for.
 

Master M

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I just had a battery in a car test at 12 volts, but when I went to start the car it wouldn't hardly turn the engine over. I put a new battery in and all was fine. Try a different battery and if it will crank but not start, try spraying a little carb spray down the carb and see if it will fire up. You can check for spark at the plugs if it won't fire up with the carb spray. If no spark you'll have to start electrical troubleshooting.
 

Miradaman

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Do you have the standard electronic ignition, or the lean surge box on the air cleaner? The lean burn system has a timer in the box that burns out. Then your car will only start with a cold engine. Had it happen to me and switched to the '73 style ignition. You will need the distributor, the engine harness, and a new 5 pin ignition box. Plus a single ballast resistor.
 

Mr C

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Agree, sounds like a fusible link.
 

QubusLewis

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Hey y'all. Thanks for the update. I went through the car and found some stuff out of place, but when i fixed it, still got nothing. Replaced the battery terminals, checked the fuses, and the fusible link and still nothing. Scratching my head real hard on this one. I dont have any lean burn controls on this either.

Most likely having it towed to a shop soon. This has me hella stumped
 

QubusLewis

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Update: got it cranking! Lights and power restored but not wanting to fire up..

I am by no means a mechanic, but when i replaced the battery terminals with ones that werent painted, i got power back.

Now for a cold one and to get it it running again!
 

Volare4life

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Head over to slantsix.org and do a GM HEI conversion, and get rid of that ballast resistor and lean burn poo poo, super easy to do and you eliminate a bunch of wiring too !! Btw have you check for spark from the dizzy now that you have power ?? Is she getting fuel ??
 

QubusLewis

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I recently rebuilt the carb and cleaned the fuel line which got it running. A bunch of crud came out of the line before the fuel filter and i am working on setting up the carb presently. Checked the fuel pump also and it came out fine.

However, I am having some trouble with the choke not wanting to open or close on its own. Correct me if i am wrong, but it is the fast idle screw that hits the cam on a carter bbd. The screw next to it is the curb idle screw? When i start it and let it warm up it acts appropriately, but under heavy acceleration it lugs unless i manually pop the hood and open the choke, in which case i can take off <vroom> . Unfortunately tho, when it's fully open like that it tends to stall from a stop or red light.

Perhaps the choke needs a rebuild as well? Might take it to a shop this week and see whats good. Spent the last few days tuning to moderate gains.
 

AJ/FormS

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On a fully warmed up engine, and key off
If you open the throttle with one hand to about half-way, and then manually close the choke-blade, and release it; it and it's associated linkage, should fall to the off position with absolutely no help, every time.
The off position for the blade is vertical. It should reach this position after about three or four minutes idling on the fast idle cam at about 1200 to 1400 rpm.If it does not, then there is a problem with the choke heating system.
Fully closed, the linkage should set the fast-idle screw onto the second highest step.
The choke heating system consists of hot exhaust gasses cooking the carb from underneath, at the command of the heat-riser valve; and an electrical assist element in the choke-well.
Additional help is given to the warming-up-engine by the intake air heating system and possibly by the vacuum advance system.
 
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QubusLewis

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Cool! That info really helped. My choke thermostat is definitely not working. Unfortunately, i went to buy a new one at o 'reilly and they only have the electrical assist thermostat and not the mechanical one.

Does this part interchange with other models and years or is there a way to bypass the electrical components and still work as it should?

I'm assuming my choke not working at all has a lot to do with me stalling out at most red lights/stop signs as well as poor starting and acceleration
 

AJ/FormS

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All those symptoms could be other things. You have to get out of the car and look at the time of the event, otherwise you are guessing and throwing parts at the problem and hoping to get lucky.
I think your car should have been born with an electrically assisted choke. I have been mentioning it throughout the thread. If yours was supposed to have it, and you uninstall it,ie install a non-assisted choke, you will have yet more problems.
But the choke heater is not the only part in the system. There is also a timer on it. It looks like a smaller version of a ballast resistor, or it could look like a small voltage regulator, about 1x 1.8 inches. These are usually within about a foot of the carb, and mounted solidly, to either the manifold or the engine. If this device fails, and a lot of them do, then the assist will not work. The choke will remain on for far too long causing driveability issues.If you remove your choke from the well and flip it over,you should see the assist heater in there. If it is in there and if there is no wire on it, then go hunting for the timer. The timer just varies the run time in accordance with it's temperature.The colder it is, the longer it will take to choke off electricity to the heater, so the longer the choke will remain operational.These are non-adjustable.If you find it nearby, then you should be using an electrically assisted choke.
 

QubusLewis

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This is the old thermostat i was working with. Previous owner had it on, i do not know the history under his ownership very well unfortunately.


Update: found this on ebay, seems like a direct replacement without the electrical components! Fingers crossed it's not junk

CHOKE THERMOSTAT DODGE PICKUP DODGE VAN SLANT 6 CARTER 2BBL 4041600 | eBay

20170321_201054.jpg


20170321_201050.jpg
 
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QubusLewis

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I know its a bad pic, but thats what i am working with. When i took the thermostat arm off, the choke moved like it should, with the old one on it was stiff when hot and stiff when cold and didnt move as it should. Idk

20170321_2018581.jpg
 

AJ/FormS

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That engine should have a choke-heater and timer. The timer should be bolted to the valve cover close to the carb,IIRC. It should have a blue wire connected to it.It will look like a little white single ballast-cresistor block, about a little less than 2 inches long, and about 3/8" square, with a spade connector at each end.
That said, if you can get this one set to come off in a reasonable period of time, then,yet apply fully,then; it's no big deal
Here's a pic
Redirect Notice
 
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QubusLewis

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Update: a new carb and choke thermostat cured 100% of my driving issues. Zero stalling and hesitation. Thanks for the advice everyone!
 
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