Thermoquad Part Question

Lightning II

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I didn’t wanna hijack the other TQ thread with my own questions. I have a 9245 that I’ve started rebuilding. I have the majority of it apart.
I’m trying to figure out what that last part is though. It’s attached at the rear of the carb to the top plate, next to the spot where the fuel line mounts. Any ideas as to what it is? The book I’m using as a manual doesn’t have it. (And sorry for the picture sizes, I took the pics with my phone)

4DFC54E5-7D40-4668-B07F-8B7CF85154C1.jpeg


D9867B40-41C6-45B2-9A2A-868B01B0423A.jpeg


673B2F83-1F70-4F25-9FB2-2116228AEFB8.jpeg
 

BudW

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If you reside in a non-emissions state, then yes, you can remove or disable that part. Removing the rubber flaps will do the job.
You will need some sort of a vent or you will have all kinds of drivibility problems.

I do recommend having something on the outside (a plate or something) or otherwise when you are in a high G event (stopping hard in reverse, etc.) could result in raw fuel getting dumped onto the distributor – which can result in “A Bad Day”.

I like TQ's and have been quite happy with them. That said, there are “outstanding TQ's”, “Good TQ's” and “Mediocre TQ's”. The version you have, is the last version, I'm afraid. I would highly recommend getting one of the two first versions (Outstanding or Good) for your project.

Here are a couple examples:
6139s Thermoquad Carter AVS Mopar 1972 340 Auto Carb Duster Dart Demon Dodge | eBay
Carter Thermo-Quad Carburetor 6-2146 440 Big Block Dodge Plymouth Mopar | eBay
1976 CHRYSLER Thermo Quad Spreadbore 4V Carburetor 9058S Mopar 440 AUTO C4-TQ | eBay
I have one like the this, but it has a cracked bowl.
The middle version doesn't mention the model number, but I can tell by looking at them, that all three are members of the Outstanding or Good family's.

I actually have a few TQ's for sale that would be good to rebuild – which would give you a lot better drivability (and performance) than the version you currently have (9245s – '79 318 automatic California w/Lean Burn and Bowl Vent) - which is just not a good TQ version to begin with.
Highly polished manure is still another form of fertilizer even after being polished.
Getting a better version carb to start with will result with much better end product.
BudW
 

M_Body_Coupe

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BudW is right on the money here, better yet, if you are going to buy a TQ and IF you have some extra time to do so, look around for the 9800 series carburetors, there are 4. Here is a little extra detail from Vaanth's awesome 'TQ Guide' document:

"...The aftermarket 9000 series were available in 4 models: 9801, 9811, 9800, 9810. The 9801, 9811 have Chrysler linkage (9801/9811 is EGR capable). Note: later OEM TQs model number started with a 9 as well, but are not to be confused with the aftermarket 9000 series..."

This is the Aftermarket version which has an electric choke provision, the type that's actually attached to the carburetor body.

The benefit of this type of an approach is that should you in the future want to move up to ANY type of aftermarket intake manifold, you have no worries about having a choke well in the casting...the carb comes with it's own choke to start off with.

I'm running one on my Performer RPM dual-plane intake.
 

BudW

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There was at least two 9800 series TQ on eBay – but the price was a bit more than I thought he would want to spend Acf Carter Thermo Quad 800 Cfm Carburetor | eBay . It is new, which is a plus as well as has the Chrysler linkage. Here is another THERMOQUAD 9800 CARBURETOR REBUILT w/built-in Electric Choke | eBay but it doesn't have the Chrysler linkage. I stopped looking at two (so might be more).

Most of the excellent factory TQ model #'s in the 6,000 range and early 9,000 range - but model numbers were not exactly the key to know. I have a couple of 9800 series but no first hand experience with them. I actually have a bit under 100 TQ's in my garage – most of them are the excellent ones (the rest are for parts).

If I was in your situation, I would take your original TQ, and box it up so all of the original parts would be there, then find a better TQ to drive with (wither an early TQ or 9800 performance version) – but that is me. I have worked on hundreds of TQ's before and just know the version you have is not one of the better, or even good, ones.
BudW
 

Lightning II

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I’m going to give a lot of thought to the advice. In VA everything emissions-wise technically has to work when it’s inspected. I’ll probably snag another carb use it as rebuild my current one so I don’t have parts everywhere. The only other issue is getting the kickdown linkage.
 

BudW

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For transmission kickdown linkage, I would highly recommend getting a Lokar (or similar) cable system for cost is better and much easier to adjust/install. Finding a complete and correct linkage is expensive – and many are not complete (ie: use incorrect parts - which should be a crime).
I've known too many people who purchased 4-bbl kickdown linkage packages that came with incorrect parts (which is useless)

If you are converting from a 2-bbl to a 4-bbl, you will also need a longer throttle cable. The 2-bbl throttle cable is about ½” too short. At rest it looks OK, but when you apply power (power stall or similar), the cable will pull back holding the throttle open – which ends up with you “having a bad day” experience. If you started with a 4-bbl engine – then disregard.

I know of several people who live in emission states which use two carburetors. One for emission testing and another one for the other 99% of the time. The thing is is if you are removing Lean Burn - you might have problems with emissions with that (maybe) as well. A person can make a Lean Burn car appear to have not come with it – with a little work.
BudW
 

69-

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Thanks for all that explanation, BudW.
I have a 9245s (E46 engine sales code, 79 LeBaron) as well and was about to start rebuilding it with all new gaskets and such.

Currently, I have some Edelbrock on it with lots of stuff not connected. I have to admit, that I did not look below the air cleaner up to now... But I'd like to run it wiht the TQ again. Former owner told me it had some issues so he switched to the Edelbrock.

Now, does it make sense at all, to get the 9245s back to life?
 

Mikes5thAve

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I've never had the problem going from 2bbl to 4bbl for throttle cable as long as the proper 4bbl bracket was used. But it's also 1984 and newer I've done the swap on so May be they changed length of cable after a certain year.

Not always but usually if a Thermoquad has something like that canister or there's a block off plate on that flat surface you can see in one if the first pics it's a carb to avoid. The best ones don't have that flat surface at all.
 

BudW

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In my opinion. I would put the 9245s in a box and save it as original to the car (or to pass emissions test(s)). Then get a much better TQ for daily driving. You will be much happier in the long run.

Any TQ that has the fuel inlet coming in from the side (rear) - is generally (but not always) a good one.
TQ 23.jpg

Any TQ with fuel inlet coming in from bottom (rear) is generally not one worth rebuilding for daily usage (or for performance).
TQ 22.jpg

This is not a hard fast rule - but works in most cases.

If you find a TQ and want to know more about it, post pictures and/or the model number here (somewhere, not necessarily in this post) or a PM and I can reply with more information you might want to know).
BudW
 

Lightning II

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Thanks again guys. And I did forget to mention, it’s an ‘87 2-bbl car, so I’m just swapping carbs to get something different in the car and still looks like it could’ve come with it so the tech guy doesn’t hassle me. They don’t do any sniffer tests, they just check to see if the stuff works at all. Then hopefully towards Fall I’ll have another engine together, but that’ll be over in my project’s thread.

I like the theory behind the TQ so I wanna stick with them for a awhile and learn how to tune it.
 
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