Thermoquad question

BudW

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You are correct, there is very little published data about the metering rod adjustment.

The metering rods do have a screw-type adjustment to them. I have some examples in my garage but either its too dang cold to go out there or my wife has other plans for me at the time.

These pictures are ones I swiped off the internet. The metering rod adjustment is something that a few people mess with and it causes all kind of problems. I think the newer TQ’s, they took that adjustment away.
iuDEMBDL3Y.jpg

The rod (white arrow) is also the screw which extends to base of carburetor. The screw (yellow arrow) sometimes has a cover that needs removed to adjust it (depending on year unit was made).

The official adjustment is: Depress the metering rod piston until it lightly bottoms in the bore and hold there. With a small screwdriver, turn the screw counter-clockwise until the primary piston stops going down. Then, slowly turn the screw clockwise noticing when the piston begins to move up. When it begins to move up, turn the screw 1-1/2 turns clockwise. This is a starting point. From there you can fine tune it by turning the screw clockwise to richen the mixture and counter-clockwise to lean it.

77 FSM pg 14-66e.jpg

This lever/plate is what pushes the metering rod piston up when the accelerator petal is pushed down, which richens the fuel mixture (as well as the accelerator pump).
I have seen a few TQ’s where the “step up actuating lever” was bent into a “U” because they turned the screw too far to richen it up (it kept the metering rods full up, all the time).
BudW
 

Davesmopar

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Thank you for the reply, I've got it to where it does a split second hiccup or bog before it takes off hard normally spinning the tires......


I have done the adjustment and started going clockwise a half turn at a time, every now and then it launches hard, but it does sometimes does have a split second hiccup.....

I probably turned it way too much, I think I'm go back to the one and a half turns on the metering rods and then adjust my idle screws and my timing again.....
 

gojetsgo

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I wanted to add some more to this post for information purposes. I have identified, what I think is correct, the bypass, the idle jet, and the idle air bleed on the airhorn. After the air bleed the mixture travels down the fuel bowl to the throttle body/baseplate. The picture is of a 9023S TQ.

Since I want to slightly richen my idle circuit I will likely open up the idle jets slightly.

20201030_131945_compress16.jpg


20201030_131932_compress30.jpg


20201030_132000_compress67.jpg


TQlowspeedcircuit.jpg
 

Justwondering

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davesmopar ... I love the red straw... I'm seeing the need for a red straw in my future. What a simply elegant solution to point to the question area....

JW
 

M_Body_Coupe

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Here is an old Dippy.org post of mine on this very subject. I no longer see the pics and attachments showing up, which is a shame, but if you read through that you'll get a feel for what adjustments do what.

I sent you a PM re: email so I can get you that mountain of info...better get that INBOX nice and empty! LOL
 

Davesmopar

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Thanks for your replies....

I will be studying this information soon....

I'm NOT giving up on this carb... lol

Sorry for taking so long, health work life keeps smacking me around...
 
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