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BudW

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Lowbudget, that is a nice-looking set of wheels you have.
Did you the wheels painted that color?
The only 15” Chrysler road wheels I recall with that color scheme was that was used on the ’70 300-H’s and they had a touch of pinstriping added to the paint. They also used a different dome/cap – but that part is easily changeable.
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lowbudget

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They came off of a 79 or 80 Gran Fury. They match the Diplomat paint perfect. My buddy sold them to me for 100.00. I have a picture of them on the car on my phone that I will try and get loaded up. The Chebbie trim rings of Ebay are a tad to big. I just received a Chrysler Rally trim ring today from Wheel Vintiques today, that when my hernia repair I had done yesterday feels better I will try. My friend said I need to come grab everything else that I can use off of the car. The heater assembly is already in my beater 5th Avenue. You have to love friends like that.
 

BudW

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$100 is a very good price for a set of 15” road wheels!

The ‘79/80 Gran Fury is a R-body which would have the 11¾” front brake rotors (and caliper brackets). The rotors can be gotten new, but the brake caliper brackets and spindle attaching bolts are what you want. The attaching bolts are longer and important to save.

The spindles are the same as FMJ. Not real important to pick up – but they are getting more difficult to find and a part that does get damaged (curbs, etc. as well as wheel bearing failures).

If the car has 11” rear brakes – that would also be nice to pick up. I think about 1 of every 4 R body has 11” drum brakes on it. If not to use, then as a good selling item (to the older muscle car fanatics).

If in good condition, the front upper control arm alignment/adjustment bolts/nuts are also getting hard to find.

The late B and R-body has a 28” wide radiator (the widest in FMJ’s is 26”) – but are not a direct bolt in to FMJ’s (can with some minor mods). If radiator is good and a 2 or a 3-core, I would grab it.

Some dash/interior parts are the same as J-body’s but not sure how much. I'm not a J-body expert.

A lot of the underhood electrical parts are the same as your other cars (voltage regulators, and so forth) so getting some good (ie: non-Chinese) spare parts might be a good idea.

If car has cruise control and if one of your cars is missing cruise, this would be a good source for parts. The servo fender bracket will not work on FMJ’s though – but everything else should.

If car was a 4-bbl (318 or 360), then grab the throttle cable and kickdown linkage and brackets (rear intake bracket, and all parts from carburetor to transmission, including pivots and brackets).

If car was a 4-bbl, I’m looking a decent air cleaner assembly (with a computer attached to it, or not).
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lowbudget

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It's not an R body. I was guessing on the year as it had the early heater controls like my 79 Diplomat and my F body parts car.

On the wheel subject, The Mopar trims rings were too big but the 40.00 Corvette rings fit perfect. (Summit part# WVI 3002 1). Just my luck 160.00 for the trim rings for 100.00 wheels. The original trim rings are pretty rashed though. I've still got to get over to my Buddies Mopar yard and try a 93 pick up ring.

I don't know what the cop car he owns has on it for an air cleaner. I know it has front and rear sway bars but a non Sure Grip rear end. He does have an M body sure grip which I have already claimed along with the above mentioned sway bars.. I imagine they will go in the 5th Ave. beater as the Diplomat is a 60,000 mile survivor and I hate changing it. I didn't get over there Sunday, maybe next Sunday.
 

BudW

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Plymouth Gran Fury - Wikipedia .

The A/C control heads were the same for most all '70/80's Chrysler's with the exception of black vs/ silver colored faceplates and with vs. without ATC/SATC (automatic A/C).

Most police cars did not come with limited slip. In most cases different company's (Ford, GM, etc.) submitted bids for X number of cars. The low bid got the contract – so some options, like limited slip got omitted.

Most B/R body police cars did get 9¼” differentials (12 bolt inspection cover). If it does have a 9¼” then there is no question it is an R body.
Either the B/R 8¼” or 9¼” will have same measurements:
Perch center to perch center of 47.3” (vs. 44.46” for FMJ's)

If it is an R-body, the front sway bar will not work. The rear one might– if not too wide – but attachment to differential and chassis will be different (not tried).
If it is an M-body, then there is no question it will work.

One last thing is all Late B and R-bodies have the fuel filler neck in the very back (behind the tag). All FMJ's have it on drivers side quarter panel
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lowbudget

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It was without ATC/SATC. He doesn't have any R bodies...yet. I will try do an early scrounge trip Sunday before the game.
 

BudW

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If it is an M-body police car, be sure to grab the propeller shaft (which is shorter than those used with 7¼” differentials).

I find it easier to remove the differential by unscrewing the sway bar to frame brackets, then unbolting the leaf spring mounts front & rear and removing the differential with leaf springs attached. Don't forget to detach the parking brake cables and brake hose, first!
If it has wheels on it, then it is real easy to move around. There are other ways to remove the differential but having done most of them, having the leaf springs and wheels attached is easiest for most of us (not in a repair shop) and not a difficult job to do solo.

If it has 11" rear brakes - the parking brake cables are different than 10" rear brakes. Also the brake proportioning valve is also different and worth grabbing.
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Kramer79

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Great comments on tires and wheels. I have the stock steel wheels on my 81 diplomat wagon, does anyone know how wide these are? I was thinking of 215/75/15 all the way around but would go wider in the rear, just think the stock Steelies may only be 6 inches?
 

Mr C

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Great comments on tires and wheels. I have the stock steel wheels on my 81 diplomat wagon, does anyone know how wide these are? I was thinking of 215/75/15 all the way around but would go wider in the rear, just think the stock Steelies may only be 6 inches?
If the steelies are stock, they are 15 x 7.
 

Kramer79

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Went with whitewalls and original hubcaps… I had two hubcaps, found two more a while back and ordered them up. Went 215/75/15 Nexen N prez… price was amazing…
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LSM360

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Kramer79, LOVE your wagon! Good choice on wheel covers and tires!

On my AHB I have Avenger GT 235/70/15. They are okay. Stroked 360 so no they don't hook up but I'm not really going to fit a tire with 15" rims that hook up well. WW turned inside, it's an AHB and I like that look. Overall I hear Cooper Cobras are probably about the best we're left with in the 15" market. I'll be interested in how the MT's perform.

Edit: I should have written RWL turned inside not WW hehe.
 
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Aspen500

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A couple years after the fact but, I replaced the BFG T/A's with Mickey Thompson ST's in 2022 and am happy with them. I'd guess twice the traction and added bonus, the car rides less harsh and handles better. Plus, the darn letters don't turn brown.

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80mirada

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MasterCrafts Avenger GT, Cooper Cobra Radial GT, Grand Prix Radial GT, Vitouri Galaxy R1s, BF Goodrich Radial TA, Firestone Firehawks (maybe), Mickey Thompson's and then some really expensive reproductions, are what are out there for performance 15s. That's not counting drag radials and race tires. The Galaxy R1s are V speed rated.
 
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