Tranny filter change => good news? bad news!

ChryslerCruiser

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Changed the filter on the imperial today. Fluid was still red and not burned smelling..

Bad news: the magnet was all but covered in what I assume is clutch material. I've only had 3 other transmission oil pans off to change filters in the past, and this was by far the worst.I would say there was 1/4-3/8 of material on the magnet...

Good new? The transmission is now completely silent when in neutral, where as before you could hear a difference between drive and neutral and I am gonna call it a faint whirring sound.

Now I am wanting to see if I can flush the transmission, and get all of the old fluid out and change it for fresh. I read somewhere that Mopar used to have a torque converter that you could drain, but that ended in the late 70's

As anyone disconnected a cooler line, and used that as a method of flushing all of the old oil out of the converter? OR am I wasting my time with a tranny that is 2/3 used up? It only has 40K on the car but obviously the lockdown lever was not adjusted after the Previous owner installed a 4bbl.

What are your thoughts?
 

Aspen500

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It's normal for the magnet to have quite a bit of material stuck to it. As long as it's more like a slimy powder type stuff and doesn't look like a porcupine, you're probably OK.

At work, we have a trans flush machine that hooks into the cooler line that works pretty well at exchanging 95% o the fluid, including the cooler(s). If the trans has a pan and filter (not all do), we first pull the pan and change the filter. On the style without a pan and only an internal screen can only be flushed. If the cooler is attached directly to the trans, then we have to drain/fill/run/drain/fill/run,,,,,,,,lather, rinse, repeat.

You could disconnect one of the cooler lines and run the car in neutral while adding fluid through the fill tube but that's kind of sketchy and may result in a big mess. For that method, I'd recommend having a shop use an actual trans flush machine. Depending on where you live, it isn't all that expensive (we charge $119 for a flush IIRC) You said the fluid was nice and red yet so, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
 

Mr C

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It's a Torqueflite...unless it's slipping or making horrible noises, odds are its fine.
 

Aspen500

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Make sure to let them know you've already changed the filter. Might cut some off the price that way, maybe. Usually services like that are "menu" priced though.
 

Hayzoos

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Two different places near me do not change the filter, just flush the fluid. They would for an extra charge though.
 

Aspen500

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Not that it matters but, I looked and we charge $119 w/o filter and $149 w/filter. Of course, some tranmissions don't have a filter to change anyways (just an internal screen). My thoughts always were if the filter is dirty enough to need changed, the trans has other problems.
 

Hayzoos

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I agree on the dirty filter indicating a bigger problem. Any time I am pulling the pan though, I am changing the filter. I try to remember to adjust the bands every twenty-five thousand miles. I consider flushing to give a more complete fluid change for a little more like new operation and feel, and a good optional follow-up to adjusting the bands. I also install a drain plug to make future pan pulls less messy. The first I did on the 87 FA also involved de-rusting the pan and painting at about 76,000 miles and probably the first it had. I did not flush it.

Cost wise filters are cheap and they come with gaskets for both the 727 and 904 and each of their derivatives. Fluid and labor are where the cost is. A flush is not as labor intensive as pulling the pan to change the filter but not that much difference. A flush uses more fluid than a pan pull, unless the converter has a drain and the tech knows about it.

I saw a flush kit once which had an assembly of valves and an inlet and outlet line which you connected inline to the cooler circuit. You were to disconnect the cooler line and connect this unit inline. Then put the outlet into a collection container and the inlet into a fresh fluid container. Throw the valves from circulate to flush. Then start the vehicle and put it in neutral. When the outlet fluid changes from dirty to fresh looking, then throw the valves from flush to circulate. Put it in park and shut down the vehicle. Then remove the flush device and reconnect the line back to the cooler. If it works as described, then it would be an easy at home job. The only issue is the numerous different connectors for the variety of vehicles and choosing the correct ones.
 

Mikes5thAve

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I always replace the filter regardless. If I'm spending money on new fluid might as well replace the filter too. It would be a different story if it was buried in the transmission where it's harder to get to but it's not that much extra work.
 

Duke5A

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I forget who, Malcolm maybe? From Dippy.org had a screw on filter relocation kit plumbed into the pressure line on the transmission.

Brilliant idea really. The internal would never get dirty and it gives you easy access if you place it right for a flush kit hook up.
 

brotherGood

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I forget who, Malcolm maybe? From Dippy.org had a screw on filter relocation kit plumbed into the pressure line on the transmission.

Brilliant idea really. The internal would never get dirty and it gives you easy access if you place it right for a flush kit hook up.

Yeah, it was Malcom. I was just telling Dad about that yesterday as he's wanting to change the filter. To my knowledge, Im not sure that transmission has ever been opened up. I was trying to dial the engine in before moving to the trans..it could probably benefit from a band adjustment as well.
 

Mikes5thAve

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I forget who, Malcolm maybe? From Dippy.org had a screw on filter relocation kit plumbed into the pressure line on the transmission.

Brilliant idea really. The internal would never get dirty and it gives you easy access if you place it right for a flush kit hook up.

Malcolms cars are at my place so I looked under them today and found one with the setup.

filter.jpg
 
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