Aka601
Active Member
Some Photos of my projekt.
Volare 77 /6 to 400
- Thread starter Aka601
- Start date
Some Photos of my projekt.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I like what I see, nice interior.
Are you going with the original color?
Are you going with the original color?
Aka601
Active Member
Thanks! No. Original is gold and decided to go bright red. Painted engine bay, trunk and so on but now regret it. Want a white car. Well..
Original Power disc brakes, 225 904 and no ps.
Original Power disc brakes, 225 904 and no ps.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Mine was /6 plain jane, no power anything. I fabricated solid motor mounts after removing all the stock brackets from the k frame. My Volare was a street strip car from the start so I removed weight where I could. Car was 3500lbs stock and 3200 with the 440 torque flight and 8 3/4.
Aka601
Active Member
Yes, removing weight is my way to go too.
As mutch aluminium as possible. But PS i must have. Also the 7 1/4 must go and Ford 8.8 come. (Yes i know, but finding a mopar rear end is almost inpossible).
I was suprised how easy the 400 went in. HP logs and all. Only had to remove the high volume oil pump.
Oldiron, did the 440 hight intrfered whit the hood?
As mutch aluminium as possible. But PS i must have. Also the 7 1/4 must go and Ford 8.8 come. (Yes i know, but finding a mopar rear end is almost inpossible).
I was suprised how easy the 400 went in. HP logs and all. Only had to remove the high volume oil pump.
Oldiron, did the 440 hight intrfered whit the hood?
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
No, but some of the intake manifolds don't. I used a scoop from the start but if you use a two plane it would not be a problem. It might not be a problem at all with a 400. As far as the oil pump goes I put a devitt in the k frame to clear the filter.
You did a great job with the under-hood paint!
There are quite a few members here, like Oldiron440 and others, who has installed a big block into an F-body.
I have plans on doing the same thing, soon.
In my garage are two NOS 400 short blocks, two stroker kits, custom pistons (stock bore), 2-pair of Stealth cylinder heads, aluminum water pump housings and Performer 2186 intakes.
One is going into my ’86 Fifth Ave with either a A727 or a modified A518 (4-speed with overdrive). The other into my ’77 Wagon with either a 5-speed or 6-speed manual.
I see you are converting to Power Steering – which is a good idea. A small block with manual steering is difficult for daily driving. A big block with manual steering is NOT FUN.
The manual steering column intermediate shaft is longer and has a different coupler than the power steering intermediate shafts – so you might want to try to locate one.
Power brakes can be an issue with a big block. Some here has either gone to manual brakes, others have used a smaller brake booster.
/6 K-frames seem to dislike big block conversions, and sometimes need modifications because of oil pump interference and/or oil filter interference that might exist.
I plan on moving my engine oil filter to outside of the engine compartment – because these cars were not designed to access the oil filters (no access from underneath). With the P/S pump and battery tray in the way – they are difficult to access from above. Moving battery to trunk might be something to think about, maybe.
I see you already have a big block A727 (great)!
Do you have a complete 383/400 4-bbl 3-piece kickdown linkage setup?
BudW
There are quite a few members here, like Oldiron440 and others, who has installed a big block into an F-body.
I have plans on doing the same thing, soon.
In my garage are two NOS 400 short blocks, two stroker kits, custom pistons (stock bore), 2-pair of Stealth cylinder heads, aluminum water pump housings and Performer 2186 intakes.
One is going into my ’86 Fifth Ave with either a A727 or a modified A518 (4-speed with overdrive). The other into my ’77 Wagon with either a 5-speed or 6-speed manual.
I see you are converting to Power Steering – which is a good idea. A small block with manual steering is difficult for daily driving. A big block with manual steering is NOT FUN.
The manual steering column intermediate shaft is longer and has a different coupler than the power steering intermediate shafts – so you might want to try to locate one.
Power brakes can be an issue with a big block. Some here has either gone to manual brakes, others have used a smaller brake booster.
/6 K-frames seem to dislike big block conversions, and sometimes need modifications because of oil pump interference and/or oil filter interference that might exist.
I plan on moving my engine oil filter to outside of the engine compartment – because these cars were not designed to access the oil filters (no access from underneath). With the P/S pump and battery tray in the way – they are difficult to access from above. Moving battery to trunk might be something to think about, maybe.
I see you already have a big block A727 (great)!
Do you have a complete 383/400 4-bbl 3-piece kickdown linkage setup?
BudW
Aka601
Active Member
Thanks BudW! Well I did my swap many years ago and did test drive it but then other things in life become more important, as for many other guys. Now I have a little more time and decided I wanted to do the drive train another way. Back then I rebuilt the motor but put cam and springs in that I now regret. I did not rebuild the trans that came from a 71 e- body. Retained the 7 1/4 axle and just shortened the drive shaft. This time I try to do it right.
Yes the 518 or 5 speed is the way to go. Perhaps I can step up to that in the future..
I have PS coupler and will shorten the shaft and then have a certified
welder do this weld. Without PS the only problem was the MP high volume oil pump kit and filter interfering the K member but just removed the kit. Had to remove the big power booster to get the motor in and then put booster back. A pain to reach the nuts under the dash and not possible to remove the valve cover whit booster. Bought
a small tandem booster and aluminum MC. HP logs fit perfect, but not dual exhaust.
Yes the 3 piece linkage I got also but also a pain to adjust. Now have Lokar cable.
Good point you have regarding oil filter interfere/access with PS issues.
Anyone who knows?
Yes the 518 or 5 speed is the way to go. Perhaps I can step up to that in the future..
I have PS coupler and will shorten the shaft and then have a certified
welder do this weld. Without PS the only problem was the MP high volume oil pump kit and filter interfering the K member but just removed the kit. Had to remove the big power booster to get the motor in and then put booster back. A pain to reach the nuts under the dash and not possible to remove the valve cover whit booster. Bought
a small tandem booster and aluminum MC. HP logs fit perfect, but not dual exhaust.
Yes the 3 piece linkage I got also but also a pain to adjust. Now have Lokar cable.
Good point you have regarding oil filter interfere/access with PS issues.
Anyone who knows?
When you pull that transmission out get the number stamping off of the pan rail and post it for sale on a Mopar forum. If it's real E body transmission someone from the restoration crowd will want it and will pay stupid money for it.
Aka601
Active Member
Really? Will do that.
Thank you
Thank you
Aka601
Active Member
Did a little unscientific research today. Compared the weight of a few parts. Used the bathroom scale.
Aluminium upper left. -73 400 upper left and last -73 440.
Not mutch saving on altenator.
5l of water 11 lbs to test the scale.
OEM booster and mc vs fwd mopar.
Expected mor diffrence.
by by savings.
left 400 HP logs vs 440. I am metric man but after all it is an US forum. So I display lbs.
Aluminium upper left. -73 400 upper left and last -73 440.
5l of water 11 lbs to test the scale.
Expected mor diffrence.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
When you think you have saved all the weight you can you start looking for 100 ways to save a pound.
Personally, I like the idea you are using exhaust manifolds. I do have plans on doing the same, myself – mainly because of noise (quieter) and less maintaince. Also, I do not need the extra performance from headers for I will have way more power than I need (. . . I hope).
The downside to cast iron manifolds is weight.
I haven’t heard or seen anyone use a driver’s side B/E-body HP manifold before in an FMJ. It might fit, but I doubt it. I believe will interfere with brake booster and steering shaft – but never tried one to know.
I’ve heard that A-body big block manifolds will fit – but they are almost impossible to find (they look similar to C-body HP's).
The C-body (only) drivers side HP manifold looks like a reverse flip of the passenger side and should fit fine in FMJ cars. There are a few different versions of this manifold – but except for heated air (for air cleaner) – they all interchange.
The B/E and C-body passenger side HP manifold fits fine and is the one pictured weighing in at 16.4 kg (Lower Left in your picture).
There is a pair of Max Wedge manifolds (repop) hanging in my garage – which I’d love to use – but you just can’t get them squeezed into an FMJ. The exits on them are 3” and large enough to stick your arm into.
The only other major weight loss item on engine, would be aluminum cylinder heads.
Question: are you going to be using the driver side exit or passenger side exit water pump housing?
The passenger side exit housing will allow for a small block radiator (or will more likely allow for) and will for easier access to the oil filter. There is only one source of an aluminum passenger side outlet water pump housing (that I know of) and that is 440 source. http://store.440source.com/Water-pump-housing-Aluminum-Passenger-Side-Lower-Hose/productinfo/200-1079/
I have one that I can weigh for you – if wanted.
I have one of each side outlet aluminum water pump housings – but don’t think I will be using the driver side outlet version, because of the oil filter access.
BudW
The downside to cast iron manifolds is weight.
I haven’t heard or seen anyone use a driver’s side B/E-body HP manifold before in an FMJ. It might fit, but I doubt it. I believe will interfere with brake booster and steering shaft – but never tried one to know.
I’ve heard that A-body big block manifolds will fit – but they are almost impossible to find (they look similar to C-body HP's).
The C-body (only) drivers side HP manifold looks like a reverse flip of the passenger side and should fit fine in FMJ cars. There are a few different versions of this manifold – but except for heated air (for air cleaner) – they all interchange.
The B/E and C-body passenger side HP manifold fits fine and is the one pictured weighing in at 16.4 kg (Lower Left in your picture).
There is a pair of Max Wedge manifolds (repop) hanging in my garage – which I’d love to use – but you just can’t get them squeezed into an FMJ. The exits on them are 3” and large enough to stick your arm into.
The only other major weight loss item on engine, would be aluminum cylinder heads.
Question: are you going to be using the driver side exit or passenger side exit water pump housing?
The passenger side exit housing will allow for a small block radiator (or will more likely allow for) and will for easier access to the oil filter. There is only one source of an aluminum passenger side outlet water pump housing (that I know of) and that is 440 source. http://store.440source.com/Water-pump-housing-Aluminum-Passenger-Side-Lower-Hose/productinfo/200-1079/
I have one that I can weigh for you – if wanted.
I have one of each side outlet aluminum water pump housings – but don’t think I will be using the driver side outlet version, because of the oil filter access.
BudW
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
If you use the passenger side outlet you can use a 360 F body radiator. I have cast iron on one motor and a aluminum 440 source water pump housing, the 440 source housing does have smaller passages that cooling could be affected.
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There have been about 4 different designs to the 440 Source water pump housings.
The first design was horrible (really small internal passageways) and a huge cause of overheating.
The second design was better (only caused overheating for a few).
The last design (number 4) – not a single complaint.
The design before last (number 3) they have on sale there as blem’s, currently. Castings are thicker than needed and need some internal porting to widen. A person can get one and take to a cylinder head porter and might come out ahead (if not done yourself).
I didn’t direct you to the blem sense I don’t know your porting capability and/or access to a porter in your area.
BudW
Aka601
Active Member
The HP manifolds come whit the 400 and did not inerfered in any spot ( had no PS but OEM big booster) in the Volare. Will try to find a pic from my previus install to post. On another mopar forum they dyno tested HP
manifolds vs standard and gaind almost nothing. But
Agree whit you BudW about the benefits of cast manifolds. Also like my install to look stock.
Yes the water pump outlet might be an issue. Will take a closer look and compare my Ebay pump housing and the OEM.
Unfortunately for me, two of the well known mopar oriented firms in the US do not even respond to mail so my opions was sort of limeted buying parts.
But I got all parts I need for now
manifolds vs standard and gaind almost nothing. But
Agree whit you BudW about the benefits of cast manifolds. Also like my install to look stock.
Yes the water pump outlet might be an issue. Will take a closer look and compare my Ebay pump housing and the OEM.
Unfortunately for me, two of the well known mopar oriented firms in the US do not even respond to mail so my opions was sort of limeted buying parts.
But I got all parts I need for now
Aka601
Active Member
Found the picks!
Big booster and HP manifold.
At the end of spark plug row is exit of manifold to 2.5 inch exhaust pipe.
View attachment 32051
Big booster and HP manifold.
At the end of spark plug row is exit of manifold to 2.5 inch exhaust pipe.
View attachment 32051
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
That's not even close!
Lol
The steering column can be moved another 1/2" away from the engine.
I used 2" headers and the rag joint is in front of the last exhaust port so I replaced with joints.
Lol
The steering column can be moved another 1/2" away from the engine.
I used 2" headers and the rag joint is in front of the last exhaust port so I replaced with joints.
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Is the (above) photo with using this HP manifold (below)?
You mentioned the difficulty on removing the brake booster for engine removal and reinstall.
Have you considered raising the engine/transmission/K-frame up from underneath (as an assembly) – with brake booster already installed?
Refer to thread https://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/threads/radiator-dimensions.7790/page-2#post-86543 post # 34 for pictures and ideas.
Granted, these pictures are not for an FMJ body – but concept is the same.
If you are working with a car with headers – it makes the job even easier.
The older I get, I tend to gravitate more to the easier way to do something.
BudW
