Wires vs Alloys

[old yellow 78]

WOW! They are beautiful!! Great job on them!

So, is the alloy vs wire dilemma solved then?

 

[Duke5A]

Dude, those alloys turned out nice! Way better than the wires.

 

[Bruceynz]

Pretty stoked eh! Come up amazing, think I chose the color well! 5 spoke alloys all the way!!

 

[AJ/FormS]

Very very nice

 

[AJ/FormS]

AJ this pic is with 245 tires on, how much more can you go?

View attachment 33253

In the old days, we just measured the tread width and whatever it was, that was the rim width as well. So 8 inches of tread took an 8" rim.
For performance I now use the minimum 85% rule; so a 245 x.85=208; and 208/25.4=8.2" rim, which rounds down to 8 inches, or up to 8.5.
So to answer your question, you can go zero more on your 8 inch rim.BTW, the rim measurement is between the beads and usually about 1" less than the outside dimension...... but I'm sure you knew that.
If you do the math; a 255 will fit on an 8 at 80% so that is still doable,albeit at a new lower tire pressure, and that will lose some stability in the turns.
In fact, you can put a 275 on an 8 and come in at 74%, again with a reduced tire pressure to run flat to the road. This is fine in a straightline, but for me, even on 8.5s it was way to tricky.
And here's a bit of trivia for you; a 245 is only a 245 on the checking rim that the tire manufacturer used, which is usually specified as 70% of the branded size. So in the case of a 245, this is; .70x245=6.75 which rounds to 7 inches. Ergo, a 245 mounted on a 7" rim will be ~245 in tire section. Or will it? The nail in this coffin is that the section width is rounded to the nearest 10 millimeter on the 5s. So still on that 7" rim, your 245 could be anything from 240 to 250. And it changes just a little with tire pressure. The only way to know what you have, is to lay yours flat, put a straightedge across the sidewalls and measure it.
And finally, the more sidewall bulge you have, the greater will be the possible tire roll-over in the turns. So at 70%, there will be a lot possible, while at 90%, very little. After 90% it gets harder to seat the beads, especially as the sidewalls get shorter.For example; a 275/60 mounts on a 10 with only a bit of trouble, but a 275/50 may require the big air blaster. The 70% checking rim for a 275 is a 7.5, but i would strongly advise against running it that way. The 70% checking rim spec is just a spec, not a rim recommendation. I recommend a minimum of 85% as stated elsewhere.
Just for your consideration; I run 295/50-15s on 10 inch rims. This maths out to 86%. To have even treadwear, I have to run 24psi. Which makes plenty of tire bulge, and plenty of tire rollover, even just merging onto a hiway. And on the 10" rim the section-width is over 12 inches. 12.6 if I recall, which is 320mm

But if you are asking about distance to the springs, then it depends on how much body side-sway your car gas, and how well you have matched the tire-size to the rim-size, to be able to run optimum pressures.
I moved my springs inboard and the tub inner wall is now my sidewall limiter. I have very little side sway and can run as little as 3/8inch. To the springs, I have run much closer in previous iterations.
I once saw a Barracuda in a magazine, that could just get a creditcard between the sidewall and the spring. And not running a track bar. But he had more room to the tubs.

In your case, I would measure to whatever car part is nearest to the inner sidewall, then subtract 1/4 inch.If it happens to be the springs, then, it looks like there is 1.5 to the spring, so that gives you 1.25 inch .Because I like those rims so much, I would have, before powder coating, cut those rims apart and added one inch to make them 9s and run a 9/.85x25.4= 270 section width on a 9 checking , not a 270 branded size tire, but a 270 on the 9" rim. I'm gonna guess this will be a 255 branded tire. the math says 255x.85/25.4= a minimum 8.5 rim, so a 9 will let you run a lil higher pressure. Then, a 255 is on a 70% rim or 7 inch. The 9 is gonna add about half the difference to the section-width so 255+(2/2x25.4)=280 section, well that is about 5mm per side wider than the target, so shrinks your 1/4 inch to 1.5mm, it's gonna be tight!
Now with 1.5mmin clearance, you will have, hopefully, pulled the outter sidewall in towards the spring as well, and you have a little room to run a spacer , if need be. When it comes to bs, always err on the side of too much, cuz you can use spacers.
Because I have heard of your engine plans, and your cornering style, you are gonna need the biggest tires you can fit on the back, sooner or later, together with a traction aid of some kind.
And finally, those tall rims may have special needs, ie low profile tires. So you will eventually have to do some searching if you want to install a wider than 245 tire. Because remember, the lower the profile, the less flexibility you have in the rim-size to tire-size mismatch, cuz it just gets too hard to install the mismatched set.
END

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi AJ,

My current plan and its not a good one is to run 215s on the front and 235s on the back.

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Bruceynz]

AJ - I have 2inch lowering blocks at home, what are your thoughts running these one the back?

 

[Oldiron440]

Hi AJ,

My current plan and its not a good one is to run 215s on the front and 235s on the back.

Thanks
Bruce

Those seem small, I would like to know the load rating on the smaller tire.

 

[Bruceynz]

Just out of interest do you guys in the USA have the can do attitude? In NZ because we are way down in the arse of the planet we are often forgotten about, this has lead to a physicy of we don't have the stuff or its going to take to long to get lets work out how we can do it! Well with the modern world, internet, sea and airfreight things have changed a lot, but its still bread into us down under here! Is that in the USA too, or do you guys say if can't buy off the shelf can't fix it? I am just curious.

 

[7T8 Custom]

Where there`s a will there`s a way. With the the right tools and determination you can make or fix anything.

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok so USA same as NZ, great news!

 

[Duke5A]

Just out of interest do you guys in the USA have the can do attitude? In NZ because we are way down in the arse of the planet we are often forgotten about, this has lead to a physicy of we don't have the stuff or its going to take to long to get lets work out how we can do it! Well with the modern world, internet, sea and airfreight things have changed a lot, but its still bread into us down under here! Is that in the USA too, or do you guys say if can't buy off the shelf can't fix it? I am just curious.

From a local car cruise. Does this answer your question? lol

 

[Bruceynz]

Brilliant! I always knew you drove up side down and on the wrong side of the road! Have proof now

When I see video's of you guys testing cars out with the camera on the dash it gives me wincing asshole when I see the cars coming from the other side and when you turn left or right it seems all arse about face to me and backing out the drive way looks weird and then and then trying to turn to look behind and back the car you need to turn the other way and I struggle with that! But But But I still love my mopars no matter what side of the road you drive on!!!! hahaha I drive sitting next to the kerb in NZ In NZ LHD have a nick name kerb side crawlers

But we DO NOT drive upside down like you guys do!

PS - What is the most amusing to me in that photo is the shadows

 

[Oldiron440]

Just out of interest do you guys in the USA have the can do attitude? In NZ because we are way down in the arse of the planet we are often forgotten about, this has lead to a physicy of we don't have the stuff or its going to take to long to get lets work out how we can do it! Well with the modern world, internet, sea and airfreight things have changed a lot, but its still bread into us down under here! Is that in the USA too, or do you guys say if can't buy off the shelf can't fix it? I am just curious.

The last car I rebuilt for a customer was started with a cowl and a roof an they had rust holes. There wasn't enough to call it a pos because there wasn't enough parts to make a pile.
After 1800 + hours he had a painted partially assembled body.
There were times that I questioned if I could or not but I did.

 

[AJ/FormS]

When it comes to these Mopars, just about everything we need is being produced for us these days, and fabrication, at the street level, is very minimal.
Now, mods to the powertrains can be diverse and numerous.

As to lowering blocks; Altho, I wouldn't run them, lots of guys do; and with your combo, I can't imagine any problems. As for me, I would de-arch the springs.
Actually, with the engine mods you are contemplating, I would completely redo your rear end, to fit at least 275s. You are soon gonna have a big big traction problem. Well, they say Caltracs do a pretty good job; but I have no experience with those. My guess is they can't work miracles with 235s,lol.
Just don't be stuffing it into any corners with those 215s up front.

 

[Bruceynz]

I saw this one hence the lowering questions '82 Cordoba

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok guys job done!

 

[Bruceynz]

 

[AJ/FormS]

I saw this one hence the lowering questions '82 Cordoba

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/olalla-82-cordoba/6824301716.html

Yeah, I could see my 367HO in that, but, not at the current ride-height,lol.. Man that looks heavy; make it a stroker.
Yours looks good at it's current height

 

[Bruceynz]

I put on the scales with the steel wire wheels which are very heavy, i think 3685lbs now. Got alloy heads to go on next hoping to get it to 3640lbs.