82MiradaCMX
New Member
My Mirada Rear Sway Bar Link snapped and I can't find a replacement anywhere, anyone have an idea if there is one from another model that fits?
Mirada Rear Sway Bar Link
- Thread starter 82MiradaCMX
- Start date
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Any universal aftermarket one will work you just have to measure the length of it to figure out which one. I don't know what part number the ones I bought were but they were readily availalbe.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
These show the dimensions of the links.
Energy Suspension Sway Bar End Link Sets
Energy Suspension Sway Bar End Link Sets
82MiradaCMX
New Member
Thanks! Helpful.
Using urethane (or polyurethane) ends is the way to go on sway bars. Car will respond better on turns and hardly (if any) negative effects.
Once you have your dimensions – I would encourage you to use a Grade 8 bolt with a steel sleeve (steel pipe, cut to length) for it – for better strength. Front sway bar end links have more stress involved than rear ones do – so this might not be a major issue, for you.
I can't remember how many front sway bar end links I broken on my '67 Satellite, '68 Charger, '69 Road Runner and on my '70 Chrysler until I upgraded to grade 8 bolts and steel sleeves.
The front end links are not the same design on FMJ's – but now I have a problem with FMJ front center links breaking.
Maybe I just need to drive less violently, err, nope not gonna happen.
BudW
Once you have your dimensions – I would encourage you to use a Grade 8 bolt with a steel sleeve (steel pipe, cut to length) for it – for better strength. Front sway bar end links have more stress involved than rear ones do – so this might not be a major issue, for you.
I can't remember how many front sway bar end links I broken on my '67 Satellite, '68 Charger, '69 Road Runner and on my '70 Chrysler until I upgraded to grade 8 bolts and steel sleeves.
The front end links are not the same design on FMJ's – but now I have a problem with FMJ front center links breaking.
Maybe I just need to drive less violently, err, nope not gonna happen.
BudW
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I have the part number at home for the urethane bushing and link kit I can post tomorrow if you like. Beefy bolt and sleeve too. Energy Suspension kit.
Aspen500 gave you a good look at them. Once I got mine measured I actually found them in my local Autozone.
Aspen500 gave you a good look at them. Once I got mine measured I actually found them in my local Autozone.
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BudW has a really good point. Just make your own. I have broken my fair share and a grade 8 bolt seems to solve the issue. You can also use Sil-glyde brake brake grease and lube up the bushings that hold the sway bar. A lot of times that breakage is caused by the sway bar binding.
Dan...
Dan...
LSM360
Well-Known Member
Here's mine. Been on the car awhile now. Very beefy replacement and the kit was not very expensive. I would've preferred the black urethane bushings but they were all out.
M_Body_Coupe
Well-Known Member
I've had awesome experience over the years with folks at Springs'n'Things (Quality Automotive Suspension Parts For Your Classic Car or Truck). My only complaint today is that what used to be a nice and easily searchable catalog has somehow gone away...at least here on my end I no longer find it, instead it's all nearly an emal/phone call back and forth.
The set I picked up for my coupe years ago was a Grade8 bolt with poly bushings. The steel sleeve is what separates out the bushing ends from each other, it's length is what defines how close or further apart the sway bar link is to the ISO pad plate. Normally just go with the stock measurement. If your ride height changes you could go with a longer sleeve (and matching bolt of course) to maintain a 90 deg angle at normal ride height.
I've attached the compare of the aftermarket and stock setups.
The set I picked up for my coupe years ago was a Grade8 bolt with poly bushings. The steel sleeve is what separates out the bushing ends from each other, it's length is what defines how close or further apart the sway bar link is to the ISO pad plate. Normally just go with the stock measurement. If your ride height changes you could go with a longer sleeve (and matching bolt of course) to maintain a 90 deg angle at normal ride height.
I've attached the compare of the aftermarket and stock setups.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I agree with Springs N Things. I bought my five leaf AHB replacement springs from them.
