340'' W2 race engine build thead?

M_Body_Coupe

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Nice, I love it when the parts are all clean!!! lol

So an interesting tid-bit, the combustion chamber (open) on my W2 head is missing that spark plug 'pad' as I call it, the flat casting spot by the plug as it protrudes into the chamber.

All the factory heads I have seen have it. I always thought it was meant to allow the flame to start up and then propagate evenly around. I am curious though if there is any sort of 'physics of flame' travel reason to the shape?

This is what my chamber looks like (see attached image).

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M_Body_Coupe

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Nice man...Q though: #5 main, you are using the regular length stud, how are you attaching the oil pump (not enough room it would seem), are you running some sort of an adapter?

I've got my block set up for studs as well, but no way a normal pump can be attached with these in place, so I actually thought of just staying with the ARP main bolts on #5 instead.
 

Duke5A

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Does anyone make a girdle for the 360?

Dad has one on his 360 based 408. Funny story: the engine builder forgot to clearance the girdle for the dip stick. After first start the crank sliced it in half. Luckily it came out with the oil drain.
 

M_Body_Coupe

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You mean this problem lol
I will send ARP an email with this picture and see what they have to say.

Yup, that be the one!

I haven't gone to their catalog yet but I figured they must have a shorter stud that could be used here?

I picked up a head-bolt that way as the W2 head uses two of the longer bolts and the normal non-W2 head bolt kits only have 1 (which makes sense). Well, what did not make sense to me was having to buy an entirely new W2-only head-bolt kit, luckily, they had the right length bolts as a separate kit of 5 pcs. So that worked out nice, heck, much cheaper than buying the whole set!

My hesitation with a bolt instead of a stud in this place is purely due to the fact that the mains were set up with the studs instad of bolts, so why take the chance that the bolts will impart a different clamping loads?
 

9secRR

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I found this picture on a W2 forum. I asked if he tried to mount the oil pump to see if it fits without mods. Kinda looks like the studs are flush?
Waiting for his replay

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M_Body_Coupe

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OK, good stuff. I figured there must be a shorter stud...crazy though that ARP wouldn't be furnishing those with their main-stud kits...I mean it's not like everyone out there who goes to a stud setup is running a dry-sump!
 

9secRR

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Little bit of grinding and cutting, and just like that the oil pump fits!
Can’t use the washer that was provided but it’s going to work.
Oil pump sits nice and flat. Problem solved in a few minutes.

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9secRR

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What a depressing day. Head gaskets are 6-8 weeks away. So, I figured I should throw some paint on and let it cure.

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M_Body_Coupe

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Ahhh Mopar Blue, gotta love that thing!

Holy smokes on the gasket lead though...what kind? Anything special or just regulast stuff that's just gotten harder to source given the current situation?
 

9secRR

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Compression will be figured out today. I’m going to measure .500 down in the bore. Find out what CC it has .500 down. Once I have this #, then I can do some math and figure out what my compression will be.
I already cc’ed my heads.

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9secRR

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Little bit of progress while I wait for oil pan and head gaskets. Can’t do much without those key components.
I checked valve to piston clearance this morning. I got lots of room. Last year I had the docile iron rockers and last weekend I picked up some crane 1.5 roller rockers.
This will also help get some lift back from the iron rockers.
With the math all figured out from the #’s, compression is exactly 11.5:1.

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