Spoiler colors?

The_Red_Baron · Dec 13, 2016

I have a duck tail spoiler (I think) for my '80 Volaré. It is black right now with two red stripes on the rearward outer edge. I'm thinking about painting it body color (Barron Red) or taking it to flat black, to match my side window louvres. If I take it to body color, I would want to take the louvres to body as well, but the paint on the car is faded, or "dead," and it could be a challenge to find paint to match it.

Side note...
Found pin hole in the left rear quarter, with rust on most panels, so it will have to get body work done eventually, but hopefully not soon. Want to get color idea b\c I'm taking body shop now, and have no where else to do it right now. Want it out of the way.
Thoughts anyone?
The_Red_Barron

Aspen500 · Dec 13, 2016

Just my opinion, I'd go body color with the spoiler and louvers. (example)

BudW · Dec 15, 2016

The final answer comes to you (it’s your car).

I prefer all one color (like Aspen500's car) – but some do like the opposing colors.

Might take a good picture of car and use some kind of Photoshop program and test out the different colors, maybe.

shadango · May 23, 2017

SO to followup on this old thread --- the kiddo has managed to get the spoiler smoothed and primed....we are now looking at laying out the holes etc.

Anyone know if there are any templates for correct hole drilling?

Also, looking for the right hardware....any ideas?

We know that this one piece is actually not "correct" for a 1980...but its what we have.

BudW · May 23, 2017

If yours is decklid mounted, then there “should” be pre-cut out holes in decklid inner support, which is roughly where the center holes attach to.
Most Chrysler products typically have pre-cut outs on inner structures, but no final holes.

This decklid is from AMD’s website for a ’71 ‘Cuda, which has spoiler holes pre-cut out. I’m not sure which holes, and marked ones I think might be used with yellow arrows (but could be mistaken – I’m not an E-body person).

What year is your spoiler off of – and I will look to see what hardware you need (if I can).
BudW

kitcar43 · May 23, 2017

contact phillip lanquist he has the measurements for the rear spoiler

shadango · May 23, 2017

Is he a member of this forum???

shadango · May 23, 2017

BudW said:
If yours is decklid mounted, then there “should” be pre-cut out holes in decklid inner support, which is roughly where the center holes attach to.
Most Chrysler products typically have pre-cut outs on inner structures, but no final holes.

This decklid is from AMD’s website for a ’71 ‘Cuda, which has spoiler holes pre-cut out. I’m not sure which holes, and marked ones I think might be used with yellow arrows (but could be mistaken – I’m not an E-body person).
View attachment 20093

What year is your spoiler off of – and I will look to see what hardware you need (if I can).
BudW

When I added the aar spoiler to my Barra uda I had to drill hokes and use a hoLe saw on the under slide for access....

I don't think the deck lid on the volare has cutouts either....the spoiler is a one piece so it would be from 79 and prior. As o understand the 80s actally used a 3 piece.

BudW · May 23, 2017

Spoilers were a new thing in ’70 – and manufacturing process wasn’t sure what to do yet, at that time.

According to AMD, there are four different decklids used for the ’70-74 Barracudas, ’70 with and without spoiler and ’71-74 with and without spoiler.

Just about all of the other car lines after that time, they just went to one style inner structure (which makes more sense).

The dealers were having problems with same thing with add-on wings/spoilers, hood pins and other items like that (like we are now).

I would bet a nickel that inner decklid structure holes are present.
BudW

Aspen500 · May 23, 2017

On my '79 Aspen the holes weren't there. The center 2 are accessed through the existing rectangular holes (but they don't line up with them). Helps to have small hands to get the bolts started and tightened. The outer 2 bolts, I had to use a hole saw on the inner structure. It's where the plugs are in the photo.
Like you, I know the one piece isn't "correct" for a '79 but it was $5 at the scrapyard so I went with it. Honestly at the time,,,,,,I didn't know any different.
It's been at least 25 years since I added the spoiler but THINK I put screws in the spoiler and positioned it on the decklid, then stuck a marker through the gap and marked the hole locations. Before drilling, also checked using measurments.

It's a good idea to replace the sheetmetal screw type u-nuts on the spoiler with actual threaded ones and use bolts. I felt a whole lot better that it would stay there that way!

BudW · May 23, 2017

Not a whole lot of data in the part books. The ’76-78 books made you go in circles without any usable data. My ’79 book gave the most data:

The stamped steel nuts that Aspen500 mentioned is part # 6026687.
I found a vender online: http://rtspecialties.net/proddetail.asp?prod=6026687 but it may be available other places as well.

I agree with Aspen500, those nuts are flimsy – but I “think” I would rather have a nut fail than break the spoiler itself (maybe).
BudW

Aspen500 · May 23, 2017

You can probably find the stamped nuts locally if you have a bigger Ace Hardware store. The one here has tons of fasteners, clips, etc.. It's like 3 long aisles of stuff. Yes, the store here is really, really big.

shadango · May 26, 2017

I cant recall what the underside of the spoiler looks like from memory -- gonna have to check it out when I have access to it....

The side that goes down the backside of the deck lid I guess is affixed with 3m tape? Or is it just a "it fits" sort of thing?

Aspen500 · May 26, 2017

It appeared the one I got off an R/T at the scrapyard, many moons ago, had more like rope caulk on the lower part, where it meets the trunk lid. It was dried out but was definitely not tape. That's what I put back on it also (rope caulk). My guess is it was more to keep the spoiler from rubbing through the paint than to stick it to the car(?)

I would think 3M trim tape would actually work better (in hindsight, lol).

jasperjacko · May 27, 2017

For a template, I would apply tape to the underside of the spoiler, cover it completely. mark the holes. Peel the tape off in one big piece, it should hold the shape of the spoiler and lay on the car. Mark your holes...bingo

shadango · May 30, 2017

SO we worked on the spoiler over the long weekend....

Ended up putting bolts most of the way into the spoiler, adding a dag of grease to the heads and then resting the spoiler on the deck lid using a line we had drawn to show up where it should be...then lifted it back off.....drilled holes in the deck where the grease ended up.

Worked fine...had to ream a couple holes a little....

We roughed in the hardware with some slot-head bolts I had laying around. Gonna swap in hex head stainless hardware.

But one question that came up....how do you protect the deck lid paint from the forward edge of the spoiler and the mounting clips underneath?

The front edge rests right on the paint, for the most part...I can see that leading to rust later when the edge rubs through the paint.

Under the spoiler where the hardware is I was thinking we could add some layers of thick vinyl tape to help cushion the hardware....

shadango · May 30, 2017

Heresults what it looks like temporarily installed.....

The_Red_Baron · Jun 3, 2017

Spoiler problems. Found cracks in the (hopefully) primer. I think this is a reoccurring issue, especially for this wing, because when I was doing the strip down, I noticed several layers of paint and filler. I don't want to go down that road. Thoughts? Also, I hear that bubbling on the upper surface, toward the leading edge, is a common problem. Any pointers or suggestions?

Aspen500 · Jun 4, 2017

They tend to crack on the ends. Mine had a crack on both ends. So far, the repair is holding up. What I have noticed is how heat "warps" the spoiler. What I mean is, mine looks pretty straight in cool weather but if it's in the summer sun awhile, it gets wavy, especially on the rear vertical surface. Expansion and contraction of the plastic is probably what causes the cracks over time.

They weren't designed to be around 40 years so aren't exactly made of top quality material.

shadango · Jun 4, 2017

What *I* cant figure out is where the cracks came from so soon......my son and his pals had worked on it, doing the bodywork and primer.

All I can figure is that the cracks appeared AFTER we secured it to the car in mockup...it must have flexed a little?

I was thinking of installing it and then doing the fixes while its on the car......not as easy/convenient as doing it off the car but maybe it would hold up better?

Really disappointing because I know he worked hard on it.

Spoiler colors?

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