Kermit
Well-Known Member
Already takin care of!
New Radiator opinions needed
- Thread starter Kermit
- Start date
volare 77
Well-Known Member
Sure there are quality items made in China that big name manufacturers require a certain standard. It`s the other stuff out there that you have to be careful of. If the radiator is welded then you may be good to go. I`m just trying to ensure you and others use some caution when buying from China directly especially no name stuff. Last year I bought some pressurized lift props for our greenhouse roof vents since a couple of mine went bad. I bought them on ebay directly from china. They didn`t even last thru this winter before failing. The other 10 year old originals are still working. Remember the poison toothpaste, hazardous drywall, lead paint toys and much other crap from there that has been sold to people here in the US. You asked for opinions and you got them. Just don`t get upset if they aren`t the opinions you want to hear.
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Dr Lebaron
Well-Known Member
I won't buy anything made in China if I don't HAVE to.
Canada, USA or Assembled in Mexico with US parts are my preferred buying
My 2016 flip phone or running shoes are the most expensive Chinese things I bought.
Can't get a Chinese fan to last 2 yrs, but those old metal hand grinders keep going.
Chinese will fake anything including rice and baby food.
Always wonder in my smoke and C/O detectors are fakes or not.
Can't find North American versions of those.
Canada, USA or Assembled in Mexico with US parts are my preferred buying
My 2016 flip phone or running shoes are the most expensive Chinese things I bought.
Can't get a Chinese fan to last 2 yrs, but those old metal hand grinders keep going.
Chinese will fake anything including rice and baby food.
Always wonder in my smoke and C/O detectors are fakes or not.
Can't find North American versions of those.
I’ll refrain from commenting on Asian goods – but will instead will comment on items I know about.
First, Copper is one of the best conductors of heat transfer metals out there, followed closely by aluminum.
The radiators Mopar used then were not made from Copper nor Aluminum - but brass. Brass is not even on the top 10 metals best for heat transfer – but it does get the job done.
Copper is not practical for usage as a radiator.
So, based off of material – aluminum ranks up there as one of the best materials to use.
Also, almost all factory radiators used in last twenty years are made using Aluminum (and Plastic) materials – so it is here to stay.
That said – I don’t like the way Aluminum (or Aluminum/Plastic) radiators look in FMJ cars – and I'll hold out getting one as long as I can.
Almost all of the '80's Dodge pickup radiators (assuming your FMU has a 26” wide radiator) will fit into an FMJ car without any problems. Even some of the ‘70’s pickup radiators (but not all) may fit as well – which opens a lot more possibilities for replacements.
Just make sure the upper and lower necks are in same location first.
Also, some pickup radiators have larger neck sizes – but that can be fixed by getting a pickup hose to replace your hose with.
If you find a radiator with neck(s) on wrong side, a radiator shop can fix that as well – but tanks will have a scar – so if building a show car, that might not be advisable.
In my garage is a few older (60’s & 70’s) 3 and 4- core radiators, in fair to poor condition that I will pick from when time to install big blocks - which may (or will) require some repair work first.
BudW
First, Copper is one of the best conductors of heat transfer metals out there, followed closely by aluminum.
The radiators Mopar used then were not made from Copper nor Aluminum - but brass. Brass is not even on the top 10 metals best for heat transfer – but it does get the job done.
Copper is not practical for usage as a radiator.
So, based off of material – aluminum ranks up there as one of the best materials to use.
Also, almost all factory radiators used in last twenty years are made using Aluminum (and Plastic) materials – so it is here to stay.
That said – I don’t like the way Aluminum (or Aluminum/Plastic) radiators look in FMJ cars – and I'll hold out getting one as long as I can.
Almost all of the '80's Dodge pickup radiators (assuming your FMU has a 26” wide radiator) will fit into an FMJ car without any problems. Even some of the ‘70’s pickup radiators (but not all) may fit as well – which opens a lot more possibilities for replacements.
Just make sure the upper and lower necks are in same location first.
Also, some pickup radiators have larger neck sizes – but that can be fixed by getting a pickup hose to replace your hose with.
If you find a radiator with neck(s) on wrong side, a radiator shop can fix that as well – but tanks will have a scar – so if building a show car, that might not be advisable.
In my garage is a few older (60’s & 70’s) 3 and 4- core radiators, in fair to poor condition that I will pick from when time to install big blocks - which may (or will) require some repair work first.
BudW
slant6billy
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The 26 inch radiator seems easier to obtain vice the 22. However, the mopar A body radiator works for the 22 inch rad square hole.
Now, if you want to put a 26 inch in then trim the hole on the rad support. There is a step ledge that just needs trimming. Of course you loose the factory mount holes. Here is Gator's 78 runner with the 22 inch installed
Now, if you want to put a 26 inch in then trim the hole on the rad support. There is a step ledge that just needs trimming. Of course you loose the factory mount holes. Here is Gator's 78 runner with the 22 inch installed
Dr Lebaron
Well-Known Member
Next time I'm by a old school rad shop and have time, I'm gonna stop in for a quote.
If Cold Case wants $400 and your shop wants $500 for a re-core, I see a price problem.
If Cold Case wants $400 and your shop wants $500 for a re-core, I see a price problem.
89.Fifth
Well-Known Member
The one I got was the 22 because it seemed like the 26 (new version) was too tall.
Mopar 18, 20, 22, 26 and 28-inch-wide radiators are all the same height (within ¼”) – except for the older C-body’s.
What makes the difference in installed height is the side straps – which can vary from body to body type or year to year (mostly early ‘70’s and older).
If you try to install an ’69 B-body 26” radiator into an F, M or J-body, the core support bolt holes will not line up and can place the radiator higher (or lower) on core support once bolted in.
In those cases, reusing your old side straps will fix that problem.
The same applies to fan shrouds. All FMJ vehicles used one of two different shrouds - which are different than all other car body types. One for the 26” wide radiators and another (when used, that is) for the narrower fan shrouds.
My ’77 wagon with an 18” radiator was manufactured without a fan shroud.
I mentioned I have a few older radiators. I also have a lot more that are "known leakers” which were saved so I can hang onto the side straps and tanks (like the original radiator from my '86 Fifth Ave).
In most cases, I can drop a 28” wide ’68 C-body 4-core radiator into my FMJ by only replacing the side straps (or having a radiator shop transfer them over) and also drilling new bolt holes 1” closer to core on both sides.
Older pickups and older C-body’s are the only ones I know of with 28” wide radiators.
I should also note core supports for almost all body types (and trucks) fall under two different classes – wide (26 and 28”) and narrow (18 through 22”).
The side straps are different for each width radiator – so you can’t get a ’18 side straps to fit onto a 20” tank without also moving (adding new) bolt holes over as well (if that makes any sense).
This picture is a typical Mopar brass radiator. The red arrows point to the metal straps which are soldered onto the radiator (in areas marked by purple lines). If you have access to a wide soldering iron or a low temp torch – a person can replace these themselves. I’ve tried, but soldering /welding is not my strong suit (so even soldering two wires together look like something a 5-year-old might do).
BudW
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
I think brass is used (by all the car manufacturers) because it is easier to bend without cracks, and because it is more corrosion resistant than copper, at least with the coolant/water mix used in cars. Copper is the best heat conductor, but I can't recall it ever being used for radiators, for any type of vehicle (car, truck, heavy equipment, race cars, semis). At the very least, unlimited budget F1 cars would be using copper radiators if there was an advantage to using copper radiators (better coolin from the copper radiators would allow for smaller radiator openings or cooler running engines). Must be something not obvious going on.
Champion CC374 is what you want. Yes, it's Chinese. I would have gone with something US, but at $600 I just could't swing it. The Champion was $200 and is a universal fit model for small blocks. The mounting ears don't quite make it all the way across, so I used a piece of flat stock on the driver's side to make up the difference.
Says it cools up to 650 horse power and I can say it's claim is true. When I had the 400 horse 360 in the car it would keep the motor at 160 degrees if I left the fans on. Like it so much when I went big block I used a 440 Source water pump housing that dumps on the passenger side. Has no problems cooling off a 600 horse 512.
For the cash, you really can't beat it. My Dad even purchased one for his S Type a year later.
Says it cools up to 650 horse power and I can say it's claim is true. When I had the 400 horse 360 in the car it would keep the motor at 160 degrees if I left the fans on. Like it so much when I went big block I used a 440 Source water pump housing that dumps on the passenger side. Has no problems cooling off a 600 horse 512.
For the cash, you really can't beat it. My Dad even purchased one for his S Type a year later.
89.Fifth
Well-Known Member
I have the CC2374B It's also a couple of inches narrower but everything I checked made it seem like the 374 was either discontinued or replaced by 374B which is now taller than 374 and by the measurements not going to fit under the hood. I could be wrong but still this one is listed as having more than enough cooling capacity to I'm not worried about that. Being narrower it gives me more room in the engine bay for extra coolers or accessories.
shadango
Well-Known Member
It has nothing to do with Xenophobia.
It has to do with garbage parts....and our experience..... Period.
I am 50 and old enough to remember GOOD made in USA/canada parts like brake rotors still available back in the 80s.
Now, mostly all aftermarket car parts are made in china and many seem to be junk or at best poorly recreated.
Yes, I have many chinese made products too.....and some are OK. Frankly some of the USA made products I have bought (aside from car parts) have been disappointing. But as far as old car parts, the USA made stuff -- oem stuff----head over heals in quality compared to the chinese stuff.
Right now I am going thru a nightmare trying to find a heater core and evaporator for our 1980 Volare.....check my other thread for pics etc of the chinese junk and you will see WHY us "old timers" prefer the old USA parts.....stuff not lining up, etc......
Some jobs you do not want to have to do a second time. Unfortunately, sometimes there is no choice than to roll the dice and hope these knockoffs will suffice.
As Duke said "Yes, it's Chinese. I would have gone with something US, but at $600 I just could't swing it.".....and therein lies the rub.
We all want better part quality, and cheaper prices, but we all also want higher paychecks for easier work. That cannot happen because without somone paying the higher USA-made prices, USA workers cannot get paid well.
That leaves the fields very fertile for chinese recreations of parts.
(Rant over....LOL)
shadango
Well-Known Member
Well, after seeing examples of the "high quality standards" of big companies like Spectra, I am not so sure. Pipes misdirected at wrong angle etc.....and tech support says "just bend them some", while at the same time specifically saying that their warranty is void due to 'installation damage'. LOL
How about making the parts fit the right way from the start?
Strangely, it seems like even the no name stuff is the same as the "big name stuff" when its made in china.....its like there is one big heater core factory in china and all the companies buy from it and rebrand it.
