78er Volare Station Wagon

Thanks to all,
@Poly
also for the link, but the upholsterer is already almost finished. I'm curious

@BudW
So with the belt drive everything is fine now.
I'll do another picture today with straps
Still had a complete 318er from a dart swinger in the Workshop.
Have now chosen variant "B"
Carshows, never
As I said I want good technology and from the inside should be comfortable
From the outside he may be used quietly

@Raff
Mhhhh such a project should be much easier in USA / Canada?
There are not many Mopars after year 75, for example.
Very popular is just 68-71 and for some time earlys

@Dr Lebaron
oh lived here, ok where? or when?

@Duke5A
For over here the car was quite cheap. If you expect customs, sea freight, etc. He was just a long time for sale, so quickly swept to Berlin and bought
Spare parts cost almost 100% more when I order in the US. Since stop shipping and customs on it, of course.

the rest, so fix, I'm doing a little longer. My first vintage car was an Opel from 1971. But that's almost 30 years ago. Since I had a few

Ich lebte in Stuttgart.
Es war damals noch ganz West-Deutschland.

Poly said:

What are the visual cues that a heavy duty water pump is installed. The photos of the new pumps all look the same.

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This the light duty of small block water pumps from 1970 to about 1987ish (with several holes on front part of snout).


This is the heavy duty small block water pump, first used for police cars and other HD usage at about 1976 and finally for all small blocks at 1987ish. The two water pump bearings are much larger in diameter and give far less problems than the earlier design. Matter of fact – I will not install the older (small bearing aka “hole” type) water pump – because they just do not hold up as well.

Note: the lack of complete holes on snout.

If you are restoring a numbers perfect car – then maybe . . . (but not me – I will go with the HD version (“no holes” design) every time).

This is a cropped picture from post # 17. A black arrow shows you what I was looking at. Sense this is not a police car and sense the orange RTV wasn’t painted tells me this pump was replaced before. Also, the factory didn’t use RTV on small blocks – and the RTV Chrysler does use is dark gray – almost black) which tells me this was done by a non-Chrysler repair shop (or by previous owner).


Does this help?
BudW

Tic-Tac said:

Spare parts cost almost 100% more when I order in the US. Since stop shipping and customs on it, of course.

the rest, so fix, I'm doing a little longer

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I'd buy parts off non companies and have parts sent as 'gifts' with a lower value price on it.
I go Canada to USA and no one gets taxed, but I send them as gifts or low value.

Great. Thanks for taking the time. At my favorite parts house, the 18 dollar one is photographed the same as the 47 dollar one. All being of the heavy duty design from your photos.

When it comes to part store “water pumps” – it doesn’t matter what car line or how old the car is, there will always (well, mostly always) be at least two different "quality" level pumps available- and sometimes more. Also, you will have a choice vs. new.
Rebuilt or remanufactured water pumps – which means they clean, inspect and if passable (to their specs) they will reuse castings, housings, covers, etc. Then wearable items, like bearings and seals, will be replaced with new.
In some cases you might also have new water pumps – which means all parts will be “brand new”.
For both reman or new water pumps – you will also have different levels of quality of parts, with cheaper parts using, well, cheap bearings and seals and the higher end using “the good stuff”.
This also applies to starters, alternators, and so forth.

If you have no money or if car is to be sold soon - going with the cheap stuff may be the way to go.

If you plan on keeping the car for a while (like example, I will drive the wheels off any car I own, and then drive it a lot longer), going for the good stuff would be the better option.

Another thing to look for is the warranty length on the items. If the part supplier has a warranty for one item for 3-months and a lifetime warranty on the next item – tells me how long the part supplier expects each part to last (or not last) – or that is my thought process, anyway.


On water pumps, I recommend adding a layer on paint on the exposed aluminum surface before installing for a few different reasons. One is aluminum corrodes without a coating on it over time – which looks tacky. Also painted surfaces is/are easier to keep clean.

This is hard to do during a water pump replacement and easier to do during an overhaul – but when possible, I also like to place a layer of paint over the gasket mating area (once done) – for an extra layer of oil leak protection (if that makes any sense).


The last time I went to RockAuto.com, I saw (according to pictures – which may or might not represent the actual part) a few “water pumps with holes” listed, but most of them were “water pumps without holes”.
BudW

Tic-Tac said:

My first vintage car was an Opel from 1971.

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I briefly had a copper colored 1972 Opel 1900 coupe. I don't ever want another one.

old yellow 78 said:

I briefly had a copper colored 1972 Opel 1900 coupe. I don't ever want another one.

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German models of their cars are WAY better than the North American crap we get.
All makes.