Front wheel hub

Thanks all. Tonight I have replaced the studs of the left side.

BudW said:

Before replacing any studs, be sure to remove brake rotor from car and remove wheel bearings from existing brake rotor/hub. The bearing races inside of the rotor/hub should be shiny, with no scratches or discoloration. If bearing races are not shiny, then you would be better off getting a replacement brake rotor (and new wheel bearings).

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The outer cone bearing shows some wear, but the bearing races inside the rotor seems shiny. I have ordered parts for both sides of the vehicle to be sure. Tomorrow the bearing and sealing set would arrive.

I assume that it is normal for the nut of the wheel hub(fix bearings) to be hand-tight?

For me the best option was to order the wheels from Europe. I have ordered a steel set of 7x15 rims. Then the car will drive around again soon.
Yes I did also like the aluminium style wheels. Too bad that a broken one has gone. But good to know it is an mopar type wheel. If someone is interested in the rims you can ask me.

If I am close to the car in Belgian, I can always sniff around for stuff.

SixBanger said:

I assume that it is normal for the nut of the wheel hub(fix bearings) to be hand-tight?

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The way I’ve done it for decades is: sung up the nut, rotate the brake rotor/hub a 1/4 to 1/3rd a rotation (to get bearing rollers into position). Tighten the nut tighter (need a wrench for this) and rotate the rotor again (1/4 to 1/3 a turn) and tighten again (again with a wrench- but not very tight) and rotate one last time (rotor should be rather difficult to turn at this point). This gets the bearing rollers into position it needs to be at, or otherwise your wheel bearing will be “too loose” after driven a short distance. Then back off the nut (using a wrench) a ½ turn (or so) and tighten it to just a scooch tighter than finger tight (and absolutely no tighter).

My friends tell me the 3rd tightening sequence is not necessary (which might be true) - but I haven’t had any problems using it this way.

When you get the wheel installed and lugs tight and with tire off the ground, there will be a bit of play side to side, top to bottom – which is just barely noticeable, which is exactly where you want it to be.
If you can’t feel any play, then wheel bearing is “too tight” and will experience failure sooner than one wants.
If too loose, the front end of car (steering and suspension) will feel “loose” when driving.
BudW

There are a few different (minivan) Caravan (and Voyager and Town and Country) wheels.

The early ones (early ‘80’s) wheels are 4 lug. Mid to late ‘80’s went to a 5x4 (5 lug 4” circle) pattern (same as early A-body bolt pattern). Note: the late ‘80’s minivan rear brake drums were the same ones used by a lot of A-body fronts. In the early ‘90’s, they referred to the 5x4 bolt pattern the 14” wheel and for 15” (or larger) used the 5x4.5 bolt pattern (which is the bolt pattern used by FMJ’s). In 2001, all minivans used the larger bolt pattern. In 2008, they bumped it up to a 5x5 bolt pattern for minivans.

Now with that said, each new minivan body change, the wheel offset kept changing. The 15” (or 16”) wheels from the ~90 to ‘95 wheels will not fit onto the ’96-00 minivan, because the wheels hit the brake calipers. Also, the 16” wheels from the ’96-00 minivan will not fit onto a ’01-07 Minivan for the same reason (the wheels hit the brake calipers). BUT – the mini-spare (with 5x4.5) from each body type will interchange – and will also fit on and work on an FMJ (in a pinch). ALL other minivan wheels will not fit onto an FMJ.

I’ve owned a ’91 Grand Caravan, ’96 Town and Country, ’00 Town and Country, ’02 Town and Country and currently my wife is driving a ’10 Town and Country. Each one had/has 16" wheels except for the '91, which had 15".

Rustyroger said:

A friend of mine is parting out a Dodge Caravan, 4 steel wheels and a donut spare. 15", 4 1/2" pcd, but I don't know if the offset is correct.

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The Caravan Model year makes a difference - but the only wheel that might fit will be the mini-spare.
If it has a full size spare, then it won't do you any good.
BudW

Thanks Bud. I intend to go to a car show in Belgium in May, no need to take the wheels, or a trip to The Netherlands then.

Roger.

Hi Roger, Which car show would be in May? And if you go to Belgium anyway, you might as well drink a few pints of beer. If you want to try beer from Abbey.

Thanks Bud.
Apparently my shipment with wheel bearings and other stuff like wheel nuts is held up at customs (random check). It may take several weeks I was told. Luckily a local garage had a set of wheel nuts and I can drive again.
In between I checked, lubricated and fastened the current wheel bearings. Surprisingly, the bearing on the passenger side was not so well fixed and I notice a noticeable wear.
But wait and then come the new rims and other stuff.

Installed everything last weekend. Seems all well. Like the rims. May upload some pics.