Clicking from bellhousing area

Davesmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
252
Reaction score
31
Location
Hendersonville, Tn
Does anyone see anything wrong with the torque converter and or the flex plate???



20191206_234412.jpg
20191206_234401.jpg
20191206_234350.jpg
20191206_232454.jpg

20191206_232440.jpg
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,030
Reaction score
2,759
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
The flex plate was rubbing something on the back of the block. Not sure what it would rub unless the thrust bearing is bad and the crank is getting pushed forward. Other than the funky weld, I don't see anything on the converter, looking at a photo anyway.
 

Opticon77

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2018
Messages
306
Reaction score
213
Location
SE PA
I like to get out ahead of it. I tried to start my Volare over the weekend and the carb stayed dry... WELP... time for an entire 2015 Challenger drivetrain swap.
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,030
Reaction score
2,759
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
Don't you just love the snowball effect??? View attachment 38371[/QUOT

How do you think my car came about and why it took over 10 years to build. Snowball BIG time. "Might as well", "while I'm at it".......................Started out as a trans overhaul and a little body work and paint touch up. Next thing you know, there's a bare body shell sitting in the garage. LOL
 

AJ/FormS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
1,291
Reaction score
305
Location
On the Circle of the earth, Southern Man,Canada
check your convertor bolts. Usually when the thrust bearing goes the bolts hit the block and then you can see the damage on the bolts real easy plus the block will be grooved, plus the bolts will take out the the rear cam plug.
 

Davesmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
252
Reaction score
31
Location
Hendersonville, Tn
check your convertor bolts. Usually when the thrust bearing goes the bolts hit the block and then you can see the damage on the bolts real easy plus the block will be grooved, plus the bolts will take out the the rear cam plug.

Engine does not have very many miles on it, runs very strong......

Converter bolts were tight, crank bolts were tight , absolutely no sign of anything hitting anywhere except for the flex plate rubbing the dust shield/starter shim, which I am hoping somehow was the noise......

Replaced the flex plate just to be sure but no sign of any cracks... converter front pump drive shows no signs of damage either.....
 

Davesmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
252
Reaction score
31
Location
Hendersonville, Tn
However while laying on the floor trying to stab the converter back in while under the car, let's just say my talent ran out and I had to put the transmission on the work table so I could replace the front pump seal that I f'ed up..... so since I had to go to whatever it takes (WIT) for parts I might as well replace the tail housing gasket, output shaft seal, speedometer oring, and the rear bearing snap ring cover gasket...... hince the snowball effect......

Plus I added a A500 pan for cheap that BudW recommended....

20191209_144443.jpg
20191209_132620.jpg


Now Thursday I will try to put it back in the car so I can drive it again.....
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
Before the transmission gets stabbed in, the wear pattern on backside of flexplate has me concerned.

It might not be easy, but I would check for crankshaft end play. This might require removing the flexplate, getting a dial indicator and a crow/pry bar. Move (either) the balancer forward with pry bar (or rear crank hub back), and zero the dial indicator. Then pry on the other end. Factory specifications should be about 0.003” to 0.008” (or so – I couldn’t find the spec in my ’86 FSM, so going by memory).

If you can feel definite movement when prying on both ends of crank, then STOP! You have other issues that need worked on and that might very well be what is clunking.
BudW
 

Davesmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
252
Reaction score
31
Location
Hendersonville, Tn
I could not get any play out of the thrust bearings ,I revved the engine as well as snapped the throttle over and over I could not see harmonic balancer moving at all oh, this is after checking the transmission out......

No I can manipulate the dust shield and make the noise change,.. I'm pretty sure I bent the shield installing it last time and even more this time.....


So anyone have a starter spacer / dust shield
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
It is not a requirement to have a dust shield for street driving. Racing – maybe (not sure of those rules).
Driving on gravel roads or mudbogging, you definitely want on in place.

As a test, you can remove the dust shield completely and see if noise goes away.
If so, you can either seek out a replacement or get some tin snips and get creative with existing one or just drive without one for a while. It wouldn’t be the first time that has occurred. . .

The only bad part is starter must come out to do it correctly. If you have installed a mini starter then that makes that job a lot easier. You are using a mini starter, aren’t you?
BudW
 

Davesmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2019
Messages
252
Reaction score
31
Location
Hendersonville, Tn
Don't you have to have it in there as a Shim for the starter????

No, I've got the old school starter, with headers so until it goes out I ain't messing with it, trying to remove it anyway......
 

BudW

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
5,121
Reaction score
1,485
Location
Oklahoma City
I haven’t seen any ill effects with starter (or ring gear) with or without the dust shield in place.

The big block dust shield is so much easier to remove/install over the small block.
Not taking consideration with the headers, those two metal arms (supports) alone make the job more difficult than needed – then you have the fact the shield is held captive by the starter.
I think I’ve manhandled a few thousand of those plates in my life.
BudW
 

Aspen500

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
7,030
Reaction score
2,759
Location
Rib Mountain, WI
I haven’t seen any ill effects with starter (or ring gear) with or without the dust shield in place.

The big block dust shield is so much easier to remove/install over the small block.
Not taking consideration with the headers, those two metal arms (supports) alone make the job more difficult than needed – then you have the fact the shield is held captive by the starter.
I think I’ve manhandled a few thousand of those plates in my life.
BudW

Agreed. BB dust shield is 4 small bolts and it's off. One of the few things easier to do on a BB F-body than a small block.:D
 
Back
Top