greymouser7

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  • 14th Bargain Bin Ignition
    Mopar fans are lucky in the ignition department, since the factory magnetic pickup electronic ignition was the closest thing to a race ignition system ever offered as standard equipment on a production vehicle. In fact, the triggering system used in the factory Chrysler electronic distributors is the basis of many aftermarket race systems on the market today. Our factory distributor was all we figured we'd need for this budget bomber, so we stripped it clean, checked for excessive bushing wear, and reassembled it with the original parts.
    13th Where does all of this theory leave us with our milled and decked 360 and non-adjustable valvetrain? Locked down with the stock parts, our lifters were preloaded about 125 psi-leaving about .100-inch plunger travel. Conventional wisdom would have had us crying for adjustable pushrods, or rocker shaft shims, to decrease the amount of preload. The fact is that with a quality cam and spring combo in our moderate rpm (under 6,500) application, it really doesn't matter where the preload stacked up as long as it was within the lifter plunger's free travel. The proof was in the pudding, with full load dyno runs at over 6,500 rpm giving no indication of false valve motion.
    12th The reasoning is that at high rpm, the lifters may tend to "pump-up," preventing the valves from seating. Aftermarket "anti-pump-up" lifters take this reasoning to the limit, effectively defeating the hydraulic lifter's function by running the lifter plunger all the way up to zero preload, requiring an adjustable valvetrain. Virtually unheard is a contrary point of view, held by some of the most respected and knowledgeable names in the industry. That theory states that with the proper control of valve motion (correct spring selection to minimize harmonics, precise and smooth cam profiles, and so on), lifter pump-up is not what we should be worrying about, but rather "pump-down," or lost lift as the inner plunger collapses or bleeds down under the loads of high rpm. Proponents of this theory have been quietly setting their preload to just a few thou off the bottom of travel and going racing.
    11th Our valvetrain prep consisted of glass beading the rockers, hold-down hardware, and shafts. The shafts were further modified by hand cutting banana grooves across the oiling holes with files, polishing the surface with fine emery, and tapping the shaft ends to 31/48 NPT to accept standard threaded gallery plugs instead of the stock pressed expansion plugs. The pushrods were wire wheeled clean, and the valvetrain assembly bolted in.

    The critical issue with the stock valvetrain is the lack of adjustability as it relates to lifter preload with hydraulic cams. Common practice is to shoot for lifter preload up towards the top extreme of lifter travel, usually aiming to achieve a preload of about .020-inch.
    10th In terms of performance, the factory rockers typically check in at slightly less than their rated 1.5:1 ratio, which can detract from performance. However, despite popular belief, the plain bearing surface at the fulcrum is a very low friction design, working well with the moderate spring loads we are dealing with here. The rocker tip at the valve is where the greatest drawback to the stock rockers can be found, with the tip generating ever increasing side loads as the valve lift is increased, accelerating guide wear. While this may give the nod toward a roller tip rocker in an engine running a .550-inch lift cam, we weren't worried with our street-oriented .480-inch lift Comp Cams grind.
    9th Valvetrain Reality
    Keeping with our budget approach, for our 360's valvetrain we simply cleaned the 100,000 miles worth of crud from the stock valvetrain and bolted it back on-you can't get much cheaper than that! The reality is that with an appropriately matched camshaft, the stock valvetrain is very adequate in applications up to 6,000 rpm, and will offer reasonable reliability to upwards of 6,500. With moderate valve lifts of below .500-inch, and spring pressures below 320 psi over the nose, the stock valvetrain causes very few problems. The worst failures I've experienced have been the pushrods piercing the rocker socket, with no collateral damage resulting. The factory addressed this problem with beefier rockers in the pushrod socket area, available through Mopar Performance, and already standard equipment on our late model E-58 police core engine.
    8th For maximum power and compression tolerance, we were running the manifold cold by blocking the exhaust crossover. This is most easily accomplished by purchasing new intake manifold gaskets which block the exhaust crossover (Fel-Pro #1213). Not content to stop there, we decided to take things one step further. Unlike the Edelbrock Victor race manifolds, which are cast with a separate plate sealing the lifter valley, isolating the runners, the Torker II is not an air gap design-exposing the runner floors to the hot oil splash from the lifter valley. We fabricated a sheet metal baffle for the underside of the manifold, which reduces the heat transfer up to the manifold runners, increasing the charge density and adding up to more power. Finally, the runners were opened up at the port exits to slightly smaller than the gasket size used at the intake port entrance.
    7th We went with an Edelbrock Torker II single-plane intake manifold, a vast improvement over the older Torker series with beautifully swept runners leading to the ports. The Torker II is one of the only single plane performance manifolds with an offset thermostat location, allowing the use of the late-model C-171 axial A/C compressor. The downside for us was that the manifold comes with a square bolt carb flange, requiring the use of an adapter to run the mighty ThermoQuad. We tapped PAW for an adapter, and rather than just bolt it on and go, we extensively reworked the plenum and adapter to get the most from the combo.
    6th Induction Junction
    The induction system was factory hardware with some of the best aftermarket stuff. For the carb, we went with a production big bore (111/42-inch primary; 211/44-inch secondary) ThermoQuad. With a flow of well over 900cfm, it would take a very expensive aftermarket carb to match the capacity. Unlocking the power potential of one of these beasts is not expensive, in fact it's free with a little know-how (see "ThermoQuad Science," Mopar Muscle, May 1998). In dyno testing, we've found a properly set up ThermoQuad rivals the best race carbs on the top end, while producing an abundance of low- to mid-range torque. The drawbacks are the lack of tuning parts available, and the fact that most serious performance manifolds (other than the pricier Mopar offerings) are not flanged to take the spread bore pattern. For jets, we drill our own, and to solve the mounting flange pattern problem, an adapter is the usual out.
    5th The price of a new pump should figure in practically any rebuild. We used the chrome pan, which is nothing more than a production replacement open sump design-not an enhancement in terms of power, but it does look good. For street use, we always add a baffle to open floor stock pans, but for the dyno, it wouldn't matter.

    The oil filter mount, which screws on to the side of the block, is not at all glamorous. There are two types used in production: a flat plate adapter (which we used), and a cast (aluminum or iron) 90-degree adapter, which is often required with headers. Both types are restrictive in high rpm applications, with the 90-degree variety being the worst offender. Either type can be modified to improve flow, and in the case of the flat plate type, simply drilling four extra holes will ease any restriction here.
    4rth Bottom End Button Up
    Capping off the bottom end, we simply cleaned up the factory windage tray that came with our E-58 360 and bolted it in using the original hardware. Up front, the timing case was installed, along with the production damper. To make timing adjustments easier, we splurged and shelled out the $6.95 for a roll of timing tape to degree our damper. We stuck it on after determining true TDC with a dial indicator (the factory marks were 1 degree out). For dyno use, we have a set of pulleys which fits both big and small blocks, and we bolted them in place. For street duty, we'll run the reliable stock pulley setup.

    The water pump that came with our salvage yard motor was a relatively new, rebuilt unit, which would have worked fine, saving some dough from the bottom line. Wanting to keep our build realistic-and repeatable-we shelved the near-new junkyard pump for a new TRW unit from PAW.
    3rd Millin' Time
    With a cold intake manifold we could reliably run a true 10:1 compression on premium gas. Our final checks after the short block was assembled indicated the pistons had a positive deck height of .005-inches. We did the math to determine the true compression ratio of our engine after cc-ing the much modified chambers of our heads. we calculated the amount of milling that would be required to get to the 10:1 compression ratio we were after. the Rottler mill had the chambers down to the 69.5cc we needed.

    To allow the intake manifold to fit after milling the heads, .0095-inches needs to be milled from the manifold face for every .010-inch off the deck or head surface. The intake face can be milled from either the manifold itself or from the manifold surface of the heads. Our preference is to take the material off the head surface, which keeps the intake manifold standard, providing interchangeability for future head or manifold swaps without milling,
    2nd In the first installment in the December '99 issue, we pieced together a solid bottom end based on our '79 E-58 360 core, machined by PAW. After spending $1,128, we had a fresh short block, packing all of the hi-po goodies we'd need. The key players here were Federal Mogul's 116CP pistons to give us the 10:1 compression ratio we wanted; Speed Pro moly rings to seal 'em to the bores; Milodon rod bolts to hold it all together; and a Comp Cams 280H cam and components to turn the numbers. The rest of the bottom end consisted of basic rebuilding components and reconditioned factory parts.

    retain stock heads-yep, those " smog era" cast-iron jobs. In our January and February 2000 installments, we showed every detail on how it was done-not with mega radical mods, but with a few basic street porting techniques that really work. This month we'll bolt it all together, dress it out with the valvetrain, induction, ignition, and exhaust systems, and let the dyno do the talking.
    1st http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0003-360-engine-build-top-end-part-4/

    360 Engine Build Top End - Double Take 360 Part 4 Written by Steve Dulcich on March 1, 2000
    Part IV: Boltin' It Up And Spinnin' It Proves That $2500 Can Buy You A Lot Of Torque And Horsepower

    Small budget--big power, theis version of our double take 360 slugged 390.3 horsepower and 404.8 lb/ft of torque with so much factory stuff it's scary.

    When we embarked on our 360 project, the goals were simple-build a relatively low cost, but stout, street small block. Getting big power for little dinero means taking a hands-on, home-built approach. It requires retaining the factory hardware where we knew it'd get the job done. Exotic stuff was out. Fortunately, unlike the offerings from some of the other manufacturers, much of the OE Mopar equipment is more than up to the task in a high-performance street effort.
    1968 Dodge Charger - $22000 (Newark) http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4838184703.html

    1968 Charger , b 5 blue that was done quickly about five years ago according to previous owner. Partial restore was done but still looks very good. Interior was partially redone, looks good. 383 2 brl, recently converted to mopar electronic ignition, all lights work Except back-ups and trunk. All new brakes and bearings on the front. Installed new bumpers front and rear, some other new parts to go with car. Call if interested, if i cant answer please lv message. Also i DONT need help selling car, Dont ask. Will not respond to E Mails. Ive seen a lot of Chargers in worse condition going for more money. Lastly the 79 Ranchero GT in last pic is also for sale.

    preferred contact method:
    phone
    text
    contact name:
    Mark
    contact by phone:
    ☎ 7406444039
    91 dodge 360 engine, 4 spd, transfer case - $500 (penn valley) http://yubasutter.es.craigslist.org/pts/4815498358.html

    I have a dodge gas 360 engine with all the wiring and main computer, 4 speed transmission, adapter, and np241d transfer case out of a 91dodge. all in working order. all for 500. prefer to sell as a package deal. I was told the engine has about 170k miles. the guy I bought this stuff from drove the truck down from Washington and then proceeded to do a Cummins swap. I was going to put the engine in my dodge half ton, but have now decided to take the easier route of having the 318 rebuilt. so I now no longer need any of these parts. I removed the accessories and bulk of the wiring in order to start cleaning the engine. but I still have all the wiring. (including the turn signal and headlight portion)

    método de contacto preferido:
    email:
    respta. p/ email:
    z8w6c-4815498358@sale.craigslist.org
    Dodge Ram 2500 Truck Engine - 5.9L GAS - $650 (Lake Placid, FL) http://daytona.craigslist.org/pts/4824354170.html

    Ram 2500 Truck Engine
    Has 108K Documented Miles
    and a real video of it running
    Excellent! Complete Engine.

    preferred contact method:
    email
    phone
    contact by phone:
    ☎ 863-465-0179
    reply by email:
    jgwdv-4824354170@sale.craigslist.org
    Engine Motor Transmission 45 Day Warranty - $250 (CENTRAL FLORIDA AUTO YARD) http://daytona.craigslist.org/ptd/4834612200.html

    Central Florida Auto Yard

    Please contact Frank at 863-288-8737

    We are a smaller salvage yard who offers the best service ,
    we check out each engine and transmission before we sell .
    We also offer delivery service to north and south Florida and Space coast to Gulf coast . We sell for less !

    Dodge ram engines 5.2 and 5.9 $375

    Ford 4.6 and 5.4 $750

    Chevrolet 5.7. $650

    Transmissions starting at $150 !

    Please call us with your needs !

    preferred contact method:
    email
    phone
    contact name:
    Frank
    contact by phone:
    ☎ 863-288-8737
    reply by email:
    wp9tf-4834612200@sale.craigslist.org
    Mopar J Heads 340ci 360ci. dodge chrysler plymouth 340 360 RT charger - $395 (gray) https://maine.craigslist.org/pts/4852230292.html

    Mopar J Heads 340ci 360ci. dodge chrysler plymouth 340 360 RT charger challenger. Nice cleaned and magged fresh valve job on new valves original high performance J heads. Been in storage for years. I have two sets all ready to go. These cant be rebuilt for what I am asking for them all ready to go. Have some springs and retainers and gaskets available as well. I have 2 sets available. $395 with fresh valves and $300 bare. Very tough to find these days let alone cleaned magged and machined. Call or text 207 749 3307 jay

    preferred contact method:
    email
    phone
    text
    contact name:
    jay
    contact by phone:
    ☎ 207 749 3307
    reply by email:
    ncx7b-4852230292@sale.craigslist.org
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    Performance small block 360 318 mopar magnum heads - $1200 (east mesa) http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/4844176163.html

    Hi all, I have a set of NEW 2.02 1.62 EQ magnum heads that I'm wanting to sell. The heads are nicely setup. 2.02 + .100 intake valves. 1.623 + .100 exhaust valves. Has bronze liners, No porting . Come assembled with single springs, chromoly retainers. hd keepers. Installed height of 1.73, retainer to seal clearance is .825" were setup to run up to .600" lift
    Magnum intake pattern
    Comes with crane rocker stud kit.
    $1200

    preferred contact method:
    email
    text
    contact by phone:
    ☎ 623 3960465
    reply by email:
    6twzf-4844176163@sale.craigslist.org

    ************************************************************************************
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