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1981-82 Corinthian Edition Roof Medallion

J Body General Discussion

  1. marty mopar

    marty mopar Well-Known Member

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    #4229462 Roof Medallion 1981-82 Cordoba /padded roof (S-P model)

    I have some NOS. the long pin is 1 1/8 inches long.

    I've never seen one....any ideas on how many were built?

    Possibly Ricardo M. had a few on his hat too.

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  2. Mr Volare Imperial

    Mr Volare Imperial Well-Known Member

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    In the Similar Threads section, there is a description of this model. It looks like leather seats and steering wheel, and a choice of two specific color choices, with dual sideview mirrors (maybe to standardized the two tone and/or pinstripe?) and wire wheel covers were mostly what this option contained.
     
  3. Mr Volare Imperial

    Mr Volare Imperial Well-Known Member

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    I was to the mind that Corinthian leather was a specific graining to the surface of the leather, or the method of tanning. It seems like a better grade, more durable, over modern leathers.
     
  4. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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  5. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Not pertinent to the issue at hand – other than I don’t recall seeing one myself.

    I remember the commercials he did, advertising “. . . rich Corinthian leather . . . “, then started to think did they not use any poor Corinthians?
    Did only the rich Corinthian’s get skinned for their leather?

    Marty, how much each and how many do you have?
     
  6. marty mopar

    marty mopar Well-Known Member

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    25.85 each plus shipping

    have 13
     
  7. Dobalovr

    Dobalovr Member

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    Recently acquired a 1980 Cordoba Corinthian Edition from the original owner who ran a Chrysler Dealership in Alberta. Car has been sitting for quite some time but is complete for the most part. I have had and do own several Doba’s, C Bodies and other Mopars. It needs trunk extentions and the bottom third of the rear quarters replaced due to rust the rest is mechanical which leads me to the following question:

    The engine cranks over alright but there is no fuel getting to the carb. Obvious issues have been investigated such as clogged filter/lines/bad fuel. Replaced fuel pump after original would not draw from a jerry can with a clean line. New fuel pump did the same thing - not drawing any fuel from the jerry can. Engine fires when gas poured into carb throat. Possible other causes? Eccentric on cam gear worn or missing? Bad timing set? Pump lever shows no obvious signs of wear and when pressed produces vacuum. Going to try electric pump to get the engine fired and diagnose from there. Any suggestions appreciated!

    1980 Cordoba CE
    318 V8 Deleted LB

    Pictures for reference
    38F745DD-F25F-4CD7-AEEA-89B83CFE8E5D.jpeg F79F4FBC-519F-49A1-A6DE-BC6677A468BC.jpeg 71059EEA-E189-418E-90DE-9803AA5CA155.jpeg 653DA3C8-5553-4678-9AA7-337B9D1C7AD8.jpeg 6BFE25CA-24DA-41EA-8E01-4597F148A3C9.jpeg 0248B5A5-63B7-444B-9649-C4A82E61F324.jpeg F0CBEEA8-9CCA-42D8-8C79-481C54E5CD6F.jpeg
     
  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    I have not seen a fuel pump eccentric go bad. Badly worn – but still good enough to get the job done for many more years.

    If you remove the distributor cap and can see it moving when cranking, then that is not the problem.
    If distributer is not moving – then time for timing chain.
    The only other option would be if timing chain was just replaced and someone forgot to reinstall the eccentric.


    It takes a bit to get fuel lines to get filled – especially if car has sat for a while.

    If a person has access to an low-pressure electric fuel pump, what I would do is hook all of the fuel lines/hoses back up.
    - If car has a 3-nipple fuel filter (hidden under the alternator), then I would disconnect the small hose at metal line side (leaving the small hose attached to fuel filter) and insert a ¼” bolt into the hose. It might be helpful to loosen the alternator (remove the (½” head) bolt completely), pop fan belt off of pulley, and tilt alternator upwards to gain better access to the fuel filter.
    pg3499.jpg

    - If car has a 2-nipple fuel filter (possible but unlikely), then the step above is not needed.
    - Disconnect the metal fuel line at carburetor.
    - With a section of 5/16” hose, hook the electric fuel pump to the just disconnected line.
    - Hook another piece of hose and have it go to a clear container.
    - Hook up electric fuel pump up (temporarily) and watch fuel as it fills the container. It will not matter if mechanical fuel pump is in place, or not.
    - If it takes a long time or fuel exiting hose spirts or is not a solid stream of fuel, then you have a hole(s) in line or rusty lines or fuel sender sock is stopped up.

    If fuel is old (5 years or older) I would suck out as much fuel as you can capture (the above system would work well for that) and replace with new fuel (enough to get running and to get to gas station – so maybe 3 gallons/12L ?).
    Make sure you get/use only 100% fuel – for ethanol doesn’t work well/causes nothing but troubles on our cars.

    I have a feeling you might have a leaky line/hose somewhere and/or a fuel tank of “stuff” preventing fuel flow.

    Once fuel is moving, you can reattach fuel line to carburetor and reattach the third fuel filter hose. Car should start, now (if dry fuel lines was your only concern).


    There are three metal fuel lines going to fuel tank. 5/16” main fuel line. 1/4” return fuel line (the one you plugged temporality to test – be sure to hook back up afterwards). 3/16” fuel vapor hose (not an issue/concern for getting car started).

    These above-mentioned metal lines are 2-piece and has a somewhat hidden section of rubber fuel hose close to the firewall behind R/F tire, that sometimes causes either a fuel (or vapor) leak. Note: it is much easier to suck vapor (air) than it is to suck fuel.

    Here are what the metal fuel lines (tank to pump) look like:
    20170329_100240r.jpg
    Rear looking forward
    20170329_100251r.jpg
    Firewall hose splice (sorta hidden)
    20170329_100324r.jpg
    Front looking towards rear.

    Kinda hard to find the rusty steel lines in the wet gravel (sorry).

    I removed these to make duplicates of – for they are too rusty to reuse.
    My plan is to make a set in stainless and to use 3/8" fuel line (one of these days . . .).
    BudW
     
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  9. Dobalovr

    Dobalovr Member

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    Thanks for the info. I have never seen an eccentric go bad either and it does want to fire with gas down the carb so timing chain should be turning. Gonna try the electric pump first then determine running condition.
     
  10. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    My 1981 Mirada did the same. Problem was a rusted through fuel line at the point where the fuel line comes up from the frame rail through a small hole in the bulkhead to the engine compartment (passenger side). Same symptoms, ran for a very short period of time when gas poured direct into carb, no fuel coming through the fuel line to the carb. Changed the fuel filter, and was ready to change the fuel pump, when I noticed the broken fuel line.
     
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