Adding Cruise Control to 77 Wagon

[Leizurtime]

I'm curious about doing this. As my car does not have it, but I just came across an Aspen of the same year in a junkyard with all the components. Of course it is a /6 car and mine is a 318. Does anyone know if that makes a difference? Can anyone please post pics of their CC hardware under the hood so I can get an idea of how its mounted? Much appreciated.

 

[BudW]

Some good news, I have for you (. . . I think).

I don’t know how many cruise control changeovers I’ve worked on, on these cars over the years (hundreds, maybe).

If you currently have (or going to) a super six, then almost ALL cruise components from any ’77 (B, C, F or M body) vehicle are the same (except for PU or van – and even then there is a good chance most of it may be the same).
PU and vans are mostly the same. 1-bbl /6 have different throttle cable length.

Somewhere between ’79 and ’84, the cruise actuator and its mounting bracket changed – but if you change the actuator and bracket as an assembly, then everything works fine.

The way to tell the ’79 down actuator is it is mostly metal/metallic.
The ’84 up actuator has a good percentage of plastic in the housing.

Some (not all) turn signal handle/switches are different (non-tilt, tilt or tilt & telescopic (C Body)) but not true in all cases.
The newer steering columns ('80-89) have a different style for the cruise switch than the earlier ones ('76-79).


Parts you need for the changeover:
- Stop light switch and its bracket,
- Cruise actuator and its bracket.
-The cruise cable, the brake booster cable bracket, and the L shaped bracket by the throttle cable clamp.
- The carburetor pivot pin and black 1 inch long link on carburetor throttle shaft.
- Both sides of speedometer cable (to speedo head and to transmission).
Note: the length of speedometer cable is the same for ALL rear wheel drive vehicles except for Vans – but there are some minor differences.
- - '68-90 Chrysler (ALL rear wheel drive) the cable from actuator to speedometer head (has a white clip that attaches to back of speedometer head). ’67 and down has same length but cable screws onto back of speedo). Somewhere after ’90, the speedometers went electric (no cable).
- - ‘75ish-90 (ALL rear wheel drive) the lower cable is the same. The ‘75ish and down have a different attachment at transmission (it screws on instead of clips on). I much prefer the older screw on transmission adaptor to the clip on.
- The cruise switch.
- Wiring harness (standalone harness). Harness fits from ’60 to the new style steering column (‘80ish) and then new steering column to on (‘80ish to ‘92ish) for everything.
- Vacuum hose from brake booster (should have valve already on booster, just pop off the cap and run the hose.

Bad news – getting the cruise switch wiring ran down the steering column – um, is not a fun job.
The rest of it is straight forward.

F-body /6

F-body 318 (360 4-bbl slightly different)

B-body (Same parts – different view).

I happen to have a ‘84ish M-body Mopar Cruise install kit that I bought off of eBay about a year ago – but the cruise switch is for the new style column (and uses newer style servo/actuator). It has install instructions I can copy (if wanted) – but I do not have plans on selling it.

The new style and old style actuator work pretty much the same way. The newer style is a bit larger (and lighter – I think, not measured to find out). Also, the newer actuator steps in smaller increments (I think – no facts to back this up).

With the corresponding mounting bracket (which is different between the two) the two actuators can be interchanged.

Be sure to get the correct FMJ cruise actuator bracket. Should look like red arrow (above) – if old style actuator.

 

[BudW]

I forgot to mention, our ‘77 wagons are almost the same (different color and I have fewer miles/garaged a bit longer) – but otherwise are almost identical.
My wagon also didn’t come with cruise and I have plans on installing the ’77 version on it.

That said, I have one (almost – but not quite two) complete used cruise setups taken off of mid ‘80’s 5th Ave’s (obtained at the local pull-a-part here), that will work fine. One would need to find a cruise switch that fits your column and find a way to adapt the switch pigtail to the cruise harness (4 wires).

You said you have access to a ’77 version there – so honestly that might be the best way to go.

 

[Aspen500]

All I can add is, I put cruise control on 3 or 4 Mopar's I owned "back in the day" (1980's) by getting an entire system off a wrecked/scrapped car and it's amazingly simple to do.

 

[BudW]

A lot simpler to do than one thinks it is.

I can understand how a computer can do all of the calculations to do on today's cruise control.
The ‘60’s/70’s/80’s/90’s Chrysler cruise control is so simple and works so well - - - it just goes over my head.

A random but true story:
My ’67 Plymouth Satellite, I had installed cruise on using all of the period pieces, except I used a newer actuator (out of a K-car, if I remember correctly). It had a sweet running 340 automatic.

Driving in town on freeway one day, a big truck merged and barged into my lane in front of me. I was alert and had room, so I quickly, no, abruptly changed lanes. I remember that cruise actuator saw the small decrease in speed, so it pulled the throttle open.

I remember the car downshifting, by itself mind it, into 2nd gear and the roar of the 4-bbls as the engine came alive, at 55 MPH, That part I wasn’t expecting – the car taking off like rocket for a moment.

The truck not paying attention and me changing lanes wasn’t a problem. The sweat from my forehead/armpits after the sudden and excessive acceleration tells a different story.

The moral of the story, it might not be best to install a K-car cruise actuator if you have a stronger than usual engine.

BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

My car still has to pass emissions out here in California So I won't be doing much modifying. The book says, she should only be capable of 135 hp equipped with California emissions hardware. I finally got it tuned up right though. Found out I installed the pin in the wrong hole in the new reluctor I put into the distributor. All those tune up specs work nicely now She runs as she's supposed to. Going to the junkyard to pull a new bumper for her off the Aspen. I'm real tempted to pull all the cruise control hardware too.

 

[BudW]

I'm real tempted to pull all the cruise control hardware too.

I would and not think twice about it (as long as you have $ for it).

If at a pull-a-part, I would start at the stop light switch. Remove the bolt for bracket first (3/8” head, I think).
- Once it is down, unplug the wires. There will be two single wires (for stop lights) and a double connector (for cruise).
- Follow that harness down and it will lead to a power outlet (a banana spade type plug – not sure what exact name is) and to cruise connector at lower end of steering column.
- The cruise switch will have 4 wires on it See next post about removal and working with the cruise switch wiring.
- Remove steering wheel – which will require use of a steering wheel puller.
- The turn signal handle has a 5/16” head bolt. Note: I’ve lost those screws before so one might want to grab it. That screw is not a commonly found screw. Slowly pull and work handle and wiring out of steering column.
- Reach under dash and un-clip the speedometer cable from speedometer head and pull forward a tad.
- The speedometer cable goes through firewall and has a grommet. Use a small screwdriver to pop/push grommet out of firewall.
- The cruise wiring harness goes through the firewall independent from the main bulkhead connector. Use a small screwdriver and poke/push it through the firewall.
- Not all cars have the pre-punched hole in firewall for cruise wiring. Use a ruler to measure diameter of hole and a picture for its approximate location. Hopefully your car will have the hole – but if not, it’s not hard to make.
- Unplug the three wires at cruise actuator. The under dash part is done - as well as wiring.
- Unbolt the actuator bracket from fenderwell, 7/16” head nuts (I think) (two or three) and save the nuts. Leave the actuator in place.
- Craw under car and remove a 7/16” bolt to speedometer adaptor on side of transmission. Hopefully someone hasn’t already cut the cable already. Keep the adaptor and speedo gear attached to cable. It does take some wiggling to get the adaptor out of transmission and expect some transmission fluid leakage after removal. You are now done under car.
- On the brake master cylinder to brake booster, there will be a throttle cable bracket. Unbolt bracket and keep bracket attached to cable (it won’t go anywhere).
- There will be a gold/orange colored “L” shaped bracket on engine that holds throttle cable in place and cruise cable in place. Remove the ½” head nut and keep the bracket attached to cruise cable.
- There will be an “E” clip holding cruise cable onto a 1” long black pivot link. I would recommend you leave that clip in place for now.
- There is a couple of different ways to remove the link & pin from carburetor throttle shaft. The recommended way is to get the correct size pin punch and lightly punch the pin out. Highly recommended you place a lot of rags in the area to catch the pin for that thing likes the disappearing act.
- The second way works as well – but is not as recommended. Take a flat screwdriver blade and bend the link ends apart at the pin, and remove link from throttle shaft. Then using channellock plyers, push the pin out (but will still need a pin punch to remove it. Then (later) straighten the link ends back parallel (which is a lot easier said than done).
- The last thing is the vacuum hose. In most cases, the cruise actuator hose should tie into a double port check valve on brake booster. If so, take a large screwdriver blade and pop that check valve out. Un-hook the large vacuum hose from check valve (or cut it).
- If actuator vacuum hose attaches directly to the intake (bypassing the brake booster) then also remove the metal vacuum tree from intake manifold.
- Gently remove actuator (with speedometer cables, throttle cable/brackets and vacuum hose) from car and you are done with the removal process.

Note: this is all from memory - so there might be something I missed.
BudW

 

[Aspen500]

I always thought the old, basically mechanical, cruise control systems work kind of like magic. Looking at what's there and how good it actually keeps a steady speed, it's almost amazing.
You're right, you do need to be careful what the actuator comes off of. I suppose a K-car one was calibrated to compensate more(?). Then again, cars with high HP engines have always been sort of jumpy with the cruise set, even a factory installed system. I mean the old style cruise. Nowdays with ETC, the cruise is seamless whether it's a 120 hp Jetta or a 500 hp Mustang, automatic or standard trans.

Another random cruise story:
Back in the late '80's/early '90's I had a '78 Cordoba with cruise. The speed limit on the freeway was 55 but I had it set on 62 mph. I came around a bend and up a slight hill and the cruise let the car slow down to exactly 55 mph and held it there. What appears in the median crossover? A State Patrol with the radar going. It's like the car knew. One of the weirdest coincidences I've ever experienced!

 

[BudW]

The cruise control switch/turn signal lever – has a few “notes” attached to it, which I need to mention.

If you have a “NEW" switch, the white/clear electrical connector will come in box but not attached to wiring.
The (old) electrical connector, in 95% of the cases, will not fit through the channel in the steering column.

If replacing a bad switch, what you do is take the 4-pin electrical connector off (wire cutters works, but not well if you are reusing the switch), and tie thick string, or wire, or electrical (pull) tape onto the wiring end. You then pull the wiring out of top of steering column (through the turn signal switch hole) pulling the wire/string/tape with it.

Once removed, you then tie the string/wire/tape onto new switch and reverse the process.
Lastly you attach the connector onto wiring terminals and you are set.


IF you have a “USED” switch – the process is almost the same. If you cut the harness – it helps to stagger the cuts/splices so you don’t have all four splices in one big lump.

The best thing is to go get a wiring terminal tool, and remove the connector from the harness. The picture like below is one version – there are other versions as well.

The important part is if you remove the pins – take a picture or write down the order of wire colors. That can be a bear to figure out why cruise is not working correctly if that wiring pigtail is not pinned correctly (ask me how I know . . . ).

BudW

 

[Aspen500]

OK, how do you know? Actually I know already, trust me.................

 

[droptop]

Any ideas on how to put cruise on an 80? I thought about using the 79 set up that I have, but don't know what to do about the wiper switch, and the head light dimmer that is in the 80 turn signal lever.

 

[BudW]

The setup is almost the same - as far as the steering column wiring harness and electrical connector is concerned.

The turn signal handle is a lot different - procedure is almost the same.
There is a piece of felt you need to carefully pull out enough so you can get a screwdriver in to loosen the two small screws. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver helps a lot here for very easy to drop those screws into the steering column.

The good news is you don’t have to remove the steering wheel on those newer columns. Fishing the wire up/down the column is still a PITR (Pain In The Rear), though.
Also, you have to mess with wiring and getting switch on the turn signal switch (a good place to have a 3rd hand).

Finding the newer cruise switches seem to be more difficult (than older ones) – for some reason.
The only difference I can see is between car types is the length of wiring (which can be lengthened if needed) – so if looking for a newer cruise switch, then check for anything ’80 and up.
As long as it has the same pop off cap design – then the switch part will be the same, but wiring length might not be.

Also, they make color coded switches as well – but those are not easy to find.
My ’85 5th Ave has a gray colored switch/cap (same color as the column).

BudW

 

[BudW]

Any ideas on how to put cruise on an 80? I thought about using the 79 set up that I have, but don't know what to do about the wiper switch, and the head light dimmer that is in the 80 turn signal lever.

I re-read your original post and I have some questions.
Is your car currently a ’79 or ’80?

If a ’79, then pretty much everything will fit from the ’77 setup will fit except for /6 1-bbl (throttle cable) and the possibly of tilt vs. non-tilt switch (I’ve seen them be the same and in some cases not).

’80 will be the same except for the switch. I’m about 95% sure the wiring harness will be the same as well (but not 100%).

Now if you are trying to change your ’79 to an ’80 steering setup (or vice versa) - then you have other obstacles in your way.


On a side note: my wife is unable to get behind the steering wheel on my ’77 Volare wagon, with a non-tilt wheel.
She asked if I can get and install a tilt steering column into the car. Now – I hadn’t committed to do this yet, but started to accumulate parts should I chose to do so.

For that project so far, I have a dark blue ’84 Gran Fury tilt steering column (no cruise though) an ’80 F-body dash wiring harness, and an ’86 M-body cruise actuator and components. Cruise is going on the car one way, or another.

On any car that I will working on, my plan is to remove the clip-on style speedometer adaptor (In transmission) and change it over to screw-on style – for I’m not a fan of the clip on style (plus finding replacement gears is not as easy).

Matter of fact, I’m about to change the speedometer gear on the ’77 anyway. The previous owner installed shorter than usual tires - so my odometer/speedometer has been 15-20% off (accumulating miles a lot faster than I should be) – so changing the adaptor style while I’m at it (but - too cheap to purchase the correct sized tires).

BudW

 

[droptop]

Parts car is a 79. Wanting to put cruise on the 80. I also have a tilt column from an 80 F body that I would like to put in, but not sure about being able to put the tuff wheel on with the tilt. Must be able to keep the tuff wheel.

 

[BudW]

The Tuff wheel will fit just fine and without any difficulties.

The question will be the base diameter of the steering wheel vs. the diameter of the steering column where the two meet.
I think you will be fine, but there is a chance the wheel base diameter may be smaller which could allow a person to see a small gap at where the wheel meets the column (maybe).

Be sure to get the ’79 switch. They don’t make those anymore and I’m sure there are people here who would be happy to buy it from you.

BudW

 

[BudW]

I swiped (err, borrowed) this picture from mchartier105’s Duster’s Photo Garage.

It shows a Tuff wheel on a ’80 Column. I can’t tell in photo if he has a Tilt wheel or not – but I don’t think it will matter.

I think you are good to go.

 

[Leizurtime]

Okay so I got the actuator, speedo cables, and brake light switch. I had trouble getting the wiring harness. It seems someone cut a bunch of the wiring under the hood and I didn't see any wiring going to the actuator. I might have to wait to find a complete harness. Do I have to cut the speedo wiring from the rest of the harness or do I pull off the entire harness, with all wiring, and transplant it to my car? I decided to leave the switch too, I'm going to find a column that has tilt and cruise. Do you have a picture of your actuator as it sits in the engine bay? I would like to see how the wiring attaches to it. If there are any wiring diagrams out there, that would be a big help too.

 

[BudW]

o I have to cut the speedo wiring from the rest of the harness or do I pull off the entire harness, with all wiring, and transplant it to my car?

The cruise harness is separate from everything else (harness or wiring wise).
I will try to take a picture of one, tonight (if I can remember to do so).

Do you have a picture of your actuator as it sits in the engine bay?

The underhood wiring is the same and attaches to actuator the same.

This is a picture of newer style actuator – so its bracket will look different – but the inner fender holes are in same location (pre-dimpled, which will need to be drilled out).

Note: I was surprised to see the cruise wiring attach to the main harness on my ’86 5th Ave (Red arrow).

BudW

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Here is the wiring diagram... wire colours are not always the same through the years but the wiring is he same 70's & 80's

 

[Leizurtime]

This is excellent, exactly what I needed. The CC assembly I purchased had absolutely no wires attached to it, this will help me track down the correct harness. Or at least, be able to wire it up. It appears I have at least a part of the CC electrical system, the portion coming off the brake switch. I just need to get a tilt column with CC and the harness to the actuator. Thanks guys.