Anybody try the 18" metric Charger\Challenger wheels?

[Greg55_99]

I have a 2010 Challenger and in my garage, I have an extra set of rims from a Charger with snow tires mounted on them. I've heard conflicting info on using them so I threw one on the back end of my stalled project to check. Don't look bad. Fill out the wheel well real nice and don't touch the spring (unlike the stock Mustang Bullitt rims).

Anybody out there using the 18" rims?

Greg

 

[kkritsilas]

You would have to get the wheel well clearance information from others as I don't have an F Body.

You would want to be careful with the wheel backspacing (offset is a related measurement). I think that the wheels for our cars had a mounting surface that was near the middle of the width of our cars, give or take. So a 15" X 7" wide factory wheel would have a back spacing of 3.5" (within a half inch or so, or about a 0 offset). Modern wheels, like the Charger wheels you are looking at, tend to have the mounting surface closer to the outside face of the wheel. So a 17" X 8" wheel from a modern car would have a backspacing of 5.5"-6" (+37mm/+1.5" or more offset) vs. the old pattern 4" backspacing (0 offset) . I know this was essential for the front wheel drive cars because the use of CV joints pushing the rotors outward. It seems to have continued to be that way on modern cars, even when they are not front wheel drive (people probably have become used to the look), so you may need to add spacers or even adapters to get the wheels to fit properly. (sometimes the bolt patterns are off, as in 5 X 115 mm bolt pattern is not quite 5 X 4 1/2", even though you can probably force them on). I think I have my backspacing information right, but I have seen 8" wide wheels for our cars at 4", 4.25" and 4.5", so I am not 100% sure which is right, but the principles are right. Give that they are all within a 1/2", it may not really matter.

 

[80mirada]

Can you take a close up of how a stud lines up in the hole. There is a lot of conflicting information on the bolt pattern for the LX cars. I know a few people have run Charger and Magnum wheels when they were first available.

 

[Greg55_99]

OK, my curiosity got the best of me so I took the wheel off of the car and mounted it onto a Dodge Dakota hub I have. Same bolt pattern as the F-body. Pics are enclosed. Anyway, bottom line is the hub will line up the wheel but the holes are a smidgen closer than the stock 5 X 4.5" pattern. The studs are not centered. You CAN use a thinner lug bolt from a Mopar Rallye wheel and get all five bolted down, but it's a cheat. The stock Charger\Challenger lugs will not center and not bolt up. So, with no adapter, it's not safe to use them. However, a quick Google search shows that there are 1" adapters to go from 5 X 4.5" to 5 X 115mm from $90 a pair. Still, after a little cleaning up, it's a nice looking wheel. I might use it (since I have it) with adapters of course.

 

[kkritsilas]

The change over to metric bolt patterns has resulted in a lot of "almost fit" and "doesn't quite fit" type issues. The correct metric bolt circle to fit the 5 X 4 1/2" bolt circle on our cars is 5 X114.3 mm. Doesn't seem like 0.7 mm would make any difference, but it does. A wheel adaptor is a good way around that, and can also help with the backspacing issue, if there is one.

Remember to always check that the existing lug nuts on the hubs/axles are flush or below the surface of the wheel adaptor/spacer when the nuts are torqued down. Don't just measure it by eye, verify with a straight edge of some sort.

 

[JerryH]

How many of you have ever installed new wheel studs to hubs? How many of you have ever used old wheels with much-worn lugnut holes? Difference from 5x115 to 5x114.3 is just irrelevant if the center bore is correct and the the car is old, the world is not perfect. The new Charger steel 17 and 18 inch wheels with 5x115mm fit the older 5x4,5" really good, like stock. I did it and have not had a single negative thing in my face about them ever. Opposite, people's comment usually says: "Really cool" and that is how the wheels feel when I drive the car too.

 

[Dr Lebaron]

Almost fits.
I hope my pistons don't almost fit.

Now that the studs are spread out, I wouldn't want to drive it at highway speeds.

 

[JerryH]

The studs are spread out only by 0.35mm each. Charger wheels have large style bolt holes. But I see no point in arguing over this, to each of their own. I've been very happy with my choice.

 

[kkritsilas]

The point is safety. The bolts are not designed to spread out any amount. By spreading them out, you are putting a bending stress on them, which they are not designed for. Doesn't matter if it is .35mm, or .1 mm, or .02 mm. there is a bending stress where the original desiggers of the car didn't intend one to be. Not arguing with you, just pointing out a possible area of concern. You may accept this, and decide you can live with the risk, and that is fine. you may want to investigate having the wheels re-drilled, or not. EIther way, it is you who has to live with the decision.

You may want to ponder the following question: if .35mm is not critical, why did some manufacturers specify exactly a 115.3 mm blot circle. and not just 114 mm? or just for giggles, call it a nice round 115 +/- .5 mm and call it a day? Makes me think that they must have thought it pretty important.

 

[JerryH]

Good points, appreciated by me. Not here to argue, however I trust my choice based on the hub technology and materials these cars have.

 

[Greg55_99]

Something I should point out (since I posted the pics). What REALLY turned me off on this swap was when I removed the Mopar lug nuts, aluminum flakes came off the wheel. Apparently the lugs, when forced on to seat the rim, dug into the metal. Not good.

Greg

 

[BudW]

Older mag wheel lug nuts – I wouldn't see a problem with using, for the cones are not used for wheel securing.

That wont apply to those wheels, though.

I do agree (strongly) with comments made by Kkritsilas and Dr Lebaron and wouldn't use them, without adapters first.

Now with that said, what Greg55_99 said, the steel nuts will eat away the aluminum making an already “large” lug hole even larger - making the wheel not good to use for either car line/type.

Maybe use of offset steel washers between the wheels and nuts might help, maybe, IDK.

Adapters are not high on my list for too many potential problems can happen – but IF I was going to use 5x115 wheels, adapters would be highly preferred over not using adapters

Also, all that is holding the wheel on, is a small part of the lug nut cone. Think about it.

To use for car show or pictures, I'd say go for it.
For daily use – um, not for me.
BudW

 

[JerryH]

I understand the concerns you guys have. I seem to be the only pro vs con guy here. Well, I'm talking 30 years in the hot rod scene and mine being steel wheels, not aluminum, and extensive experience of Mopars of all ages starting from the 1930ies. I'm daily driving mine with the 5x115mm steelies. Potholes, highways, high winding fast mountain roads (the infamous CA 17 from San Jose to Santa Cruz) and everything in between. Been there, done that and for a longer period of time already with my car.

 

[Greg55_99]

Pics please?

Greg

 

[F body Deconstructor Jim]

its less than 0.014".
completely different than piston to bore clearance, apples to oranges imo.

 

[JerryH]

Pics please?

Greg

Just sayin' hello

I changed the offset by 1 inch for the old school RWD look, center section inwards. So they look factory but are not in real life.

Epilogue-edit:
If the groove depth of the studs were any longer as OEM, I would not have done this, using 5x115 on 5x114.3mm. Original depth allows slight play in regards to installed depth and that is the mechanical reason I felt comfortable enough to do this.

 

[Intrepolicious]

A few years back when I had my LH body (Intrepid (FWD)), one of the popular mods on the forums was to use LX wheels, which had the same 5x114.3 bolt pattern, but had a different offset because they came from RWD cars (LX). The thing that made it work, was that they were "hub-centric" rather than lug centric. Of course the tire size had to be changed to a lower profile..
I tried a set of 2010 Charger wheels on my LH for a few months, but finally decided I didn't like the look anymore and bought the 20" Foose wheels.