Boneyard alternative front suspensions

[Greg55_99]

I've got my own ideas, however, if you wanted to swap out the FMJ front suspension with an alternative from a junkyard, what would you go with? I've got some ideas.

2003 and up Crown Victoria ifs:

Lexus SC300/400 IFS:

Mustang II

Jag:

My own personal favorite is the Dakota but, that's me.

So I suppose if you have some fab skills and short on money, would you select any of these options or just leave them alone. Consider FMJ's just don't have a lot of market value so dropping in $5000 front suspensions won't make it with me (or the banker I'm married to).

Greg

 

[AJ/FormS]

I got no idea what you're up to but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't do it,lol

 

[MiradaMegacab]

I like the stance on this Imperial. I'm gonna replace the front clip on my Mirada with a strut front end kit from SW and set the engine back 12"

 

[slant6billy]

OK, Most of the offerings are front steer rack and pinion. The Mustang2 is probably most common

 

[BudW]

May I ask what your objective is?

With a little work, a FMJ suspension can road race with most cars.

My stock ’77 wagon does an outstanding job in the twisty Ozark Mountains.
With a better set of tires, I think it might be a close to what my ’87 Daytona Shelby could do – except for braking.

I have plans on replacing the K-frame mounts with metal and getting bigger sway bars on it.


Now my 5th Ave, needs new rubber, sway bars, and solid mounts before it could be a serious contender on twists – but that is planned anyway. Right now, it handles like what your grandma would drive.
BudW

 

[Aspen500]

Some are the wrong track width and would require extensive modifications. The '03 and up Crown Vic suspension/steering is excellent but too wide. The aluminum "cradle" would be a heck of a thing to narrow, not to mention the steering linkage.

My take on Lexus or Jag would be potential parts availability down the road. I mean, the parts are available but usually takes a few days to get (not normally stocked by local parts stores).

If any, the Mustang II would be the easiest swap. Still a lot of work but feasable. Plus, because they're used in so many street rods the parts, both stock and aftermarket, are easily obtained and fairly inexpensive. To find a Mustang II in the junkyard for a donor car is another matter though. Most are LOOOOONG gone. Then again, like I mentioned, you can build an entire set up from a catalog (like Speedway) for a reasonable cost. No idea what but way less than $5,000 anyways.

 

[kkritsilas]

Basic question is still, why?

If you want to road race, using an F,M, or J is not really the best choice. As well, "budget" and "road race" if there is any intent to have success don't normally go together.

Anything can be done, given enough money (there goes the "budget"), even road racing. Budget is relative, I suppose. The lowest cost for our cars is probably to go through the Firm Feel catalog, and pick and choose the parts that are wanted. I have done this as an exercise, and was looking about about $US1500-2K, in parts alone. Doesn't take into account frame stiffening, which is either a requirement or a really good idea, depending on what level you want to compete in. This is even more important with the $5K alternative suspension, at is will put even more stresses into the frame, just on the baisi of it being able to corner faster.

 

[Greg55_99]

I'm an F-body guy but I'm open to new stuff. I posted a lot of info at the A-body site.

Lexus SC300/SC400 front suspension

Just enough to make you scratch your head and think.... Here's a measurement I can give you because I've done it a thousand times in the past four years. It is almost exactly 34" outside to outside on F body "frame" rails. That's a near match of Ford 1956 F100 trucks and other iron. Think outside the box if you're short on cash is what I'm saying.

 

[F body Deconstructor Jim]

I've sold several K assemblies to guys restoring their old Ford pickups.
Some to guys doing old Dodges too.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I've seen F-body suspensions on hotrods too.

 

[kkritsilas]

back to my original question? Why?

If it is a "just to see if that can be done" type of thing, fine. If it is to try to get a suspension that is "better for a budget price", I must still ask why? There is nothing really wrong with the front end, in a street driven car. If you want to go road racing on a budget, you picked the wrong car family. Our cars do not have the best camber/caster gain curves, nor do they have the greatest chassis rigidity, for that type of use, whick to me is fine, as they were never intended to be used that way. You will probably fix the caster/camber gain curve issue with a different suspension, but you won't solve the chassis rigidity issue. You can solve both with a lot of money, but that is no longer a "budget" build.

The hot rods and older pickups are using the FMJ front ends/K members because the original suspension was poor (in the early pickups) and the K member makes for an easy fit (early pckups and hot rods). They get a better ride, more than likely a better handling front end, for not much money.

Replacing the K member front end in our cars, let's say with the Magnum Force (that is in one of the other postings) or Alterkation front ends will improve things. However, it will be $US5K or so. Most of our cars are not worth $5K. So again, I ask what is the point, or more succinctly. why, considering that it works fine (if in good shape) on street driven cars.

 

[Aspen500]

Sometimes the "why" is because everyone tells you it can't be done, it'll never work, won't fit...............................That's actually how a certain blue Aspen ended up with a big block in the first place (back in '89). What I mean is, some things get done kind of just to prove a point, if that makes any sense.

 

[AJ/FormS]

You mean kindof like paving your yard so you don't have to mow grass?

 

[Aspen500]

You mean kindof like paving your yard so you don't have to mow grass?

Yeah, kind of like that, lol! Paint it green and good to go.

 

[Greg55_99]

Why? Because I put a big block in my car in 1980 and it became a nose heavy pig.
Because I drive a 2010 Challenger and I KNOW I can make my 77 Road Runner better.
Because I don't want to spend $5000 on that part of the project.
Mostly because I can.

The wise man may ask "why"? In response, the Hot Rodder may say "Hell... Why not?"

The most powerful tool I have in my tool box is a tape measure.

 

[BudW]

Why? Because I put a big block in my car in 1980 and it became a nose heavy pig.
Because I drive a 2010 Challenger and I KNOW I can make my 77 Road Runner better.
Because I don't want to spend $5000 on that part of the project.
Mostly because I can.
The wise man may ask "why"? In response, the Hot Rodder may say "Hell... Why not?"
The most powerful tool I have in my tool box is a tape measure.

I can’t argue with that.

I hadn’t done any measurements – so could be way off base. How about the LX (Charger/300/Magnum/Challenger) front suspension?
BudW

 

[Dr Lebaron]

I found out I can go 2 turbos per cylinder and 20 speed.

 

[Greg55_99]

LX front suspension is a bit wide. Did find a guy that did it on a Studebaker.

Front Suspension: Hemi Stude | Duncans Speed & Custom

It's got an odd design for attaching the upper a-arms that I did not want to deal with.

 

[Greg55_99]

See this jewel. I took it out of my car a few years ago when I started my own project. When I pulled it, I was surprised just how bad the welds were on it. Anyway, after riding around in the Challenger and liking the way it handled, I decided I could do better with the Volare, so that's how I look at it.

 

[brotherGood]

Whenever I get my hands on another spare K frame (had multiple opportunities, just timing didn't work) I plan on reinforcing the welds, control arms, putting new poly bushings in everywhere, along with a new borgeson box.

But then again..I need a cash flow well enough to support that.